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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here are some tips and procedures I like to do when setting up a new tune.

A few things get reset when flashing between different pro tunes, and between OTS maps and pro tunes. One primary target is the octane adjust ratio (OAR Lrn). We want that to be at -1 so the ECU is giving full compensation for the fuel that you're using. Usually this gets set back to 0 after a reflash from a new source. You can check this buy looking at the Octane Adjust Ratio Lrn PID on the AP. When you flash a new revision from the same tuner, the OAR usually stays where it was on the last flash and does not reset. Here is an easy procedure to force it back to -1 quickly:

It takes a little load and boost over a span of time to get the OAR to quickly adjust. If you have a V3, set one gauge to show ign corr cyl 1 and one to OAR. For a V2, just watch the IGN corr cyl 1. Get on a highway or long slightly uphill road in 4th gear around 30-40 mph. Give it just enough throttle to hit 2-4 psi of boost. Hold it there and watch the cyl corrections climb up to max (+4.00). Hold it there for a few seconds and lift. You should see the OAR jump after you lift. (V2 guys will need to scroll to the OAR PID to check) Repeat until it's -1.
You need to be very steady on the throttle. Any variation will not allow the ign corrections to climb.

Once the OAR is at -1, it's time to prepare the car for logging. This is the list I like to see on the first file. If you have a V2, you can drop Knock Count 2 & 4 and TIP Act.
Datalog list:

Airflow Mass
Actual AFR
Boost
Charge temp
ETC Angle
Engine RPM
Ign Corr Cyl 1
Ign Corr Cyl 2
Ign Corr Cyl 3
Ign Corr Cyl 4
Ign Timing Cyl 1
Knock Count 1-4
Load
LTFT
STFT
Octane Adjust Ratio Lrn
TIP Actual Abs
WGDC Actual

After all of that is complete, we want to let the ECU adjust itself to the new tune and fuel. Many cars show poor results after a reflash. You may see some minor negative corrections or boost spikes, but after 3 or 4 WOT pulls, the data looks great and usually is asking for more. So I like to do a few short pulls after a fresh tune is loaded. 2k rpm to 3k rpm, then 2k to 4k, and 3k to 5k, and so on. This helps stabilize the tune and lets the ECU re-learn. After a few pulls like that, you're ready to log.

First, and VERY important, is to make sure the car is up to operating temperature. 175*F is MINIMUM and 185*F+ is perfect. Don't use the factory coolant temp gauge as it's not even close! Check the coolant temp on the AP if you just started to drive the car. If you've been driving for a while, it's probably ok, however I like to make sure by checking it. Next is putting the car in "Sport Mode" by pressing the ESC button below the heater controls.

Have the car in 3rd gear around 2500 rpm. Hit the start button on the AP. The values will disappear for a short time and then reappear. When you see the value(s) come back, it's time to go WOT. Run the car up to 6200 rpm (or whatever you can safely do) and lift off the throttle. Hit the stop button on the AP after lifting.

Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times to get a good span of data. They don't need to be back to back, and it's always good to let the car cool down (especially on the stock intercooler) before doing another.

Another quirk in logging is starting at too low of an rpm. On a tune with higher boost levels we can get negative corrections down where the boost spikes up. This can affect the timing startegy through the entire pull. If you start at 2000 rpm or less, and see negative corrections in the log, I suggest doing a pull or two starting at 3000 rpm. This can clean up what the knock sensors are picking up in the low rpm range and make for a more accurate log in the actual power band of the car. Most people do not start racing at WOT in 4th gear at 2000 rpm. I also feel that putting that much load on the engine is not good for it. There really isn't a good reason to push 24 psi of boost at 2000 rpm in high gears. 2500 -2800 is a good starting point for data.

When you email datalogs, please keep them in .csv format. It's ok if you want to change the name on them, just don't change the file type.

Hope that helps!!

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good info. 2 quick questions.

While datalogging, does the octane learn adjust change? I'm wondering why that would be necessary if you're not supposed to datalog with anything greater than -1.00.

Also, what's the reason(s) for doing 3rd gear pulls? I always read thought it should be done in 4th.
The OAR can change during WOT pulls. However, it's just a check for me so I'm not adjusting a file based on someone saying it's at -1 when it isn't. If you need more logging space, you could remove it and just manually check it before and after the logging session to make sure it was and still is at -1.

It's easier and safer for people to do 3rd gear pulls. 4th gear pulls to 6000+ is at or over 120 mph. If you can safely do them, great.
I dial the tunes in to be a little conservative in 3rd which puts them spot on in 4th. Every tune I've done on my car from the beginning has been using 3rd gear, so I got a feel for what the results should be.

If someone is doing a race such as 1/2 mile drags, then I would want to see more 4th gear data to dial in it perfect. But for most street cars and even drag strip cars, a tune can be dialed in using 3rd gear, and it's safer on you guys.
 

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The OAR can change during WOT pulls. However, it's just a check for me so I'm not adjusting a file based on someone saying it's at -1 when it isn't. If you need more logging space, you could remove it and just manually check it before and after the logging session to make sure it was and still is at -1.

It's easier and safer for people to do 3rd gear pulls. 4th gear pulls to 6000+ is at or over 120 mph. If you can safely do them, great.
I dial the tunes in to be a little conservative in 3rd which puts them spot on in 4th. Every tune I've done on my car from the beginning has been using 3rd gear, so I got a feel for what the results should be.

If someone is doing a race such as 1/2 mile drags, then I would want to see more 4th gear data to dial in it perfect. But for most street cars and even drag strip cars, a tune can be dialed in using 3rd gear, and it's safer on you guys.
Ya...my 4th gear pulls are starting to get scary on my GTX2867...screaming at 6k ...not sure where that next cop is or the armadillo that's crossin the road ahead lol

tizzapin
 

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I have a v2 and every time I try to log it says I'm trying to monitor too many things. I selected only the things on the list above (I think most were actually already selected), but I can't get it to log.

I have like 4 tunes from different tuners on my v2. Should I just delete the old tunes off of the AP? Or does that not make a difference.

The car feels like it's running awesome as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a v2 and every time I try to log it says I'm trying to monitor too many things. I selected only the things on the list above (I think most were actually already selected), but I can't get it to log.

I have like 4 tunes from different tuners on my v2. Should I just delete the old tunes off of the AP? Or does that not make a difference.

The car feels like it's running awesome as is.
V2 has less logging space available. I believe I sent the modified list with your first tune.
 

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Here are some tips and procedures I like to do when setting up a new tune. A few things get reset when flashing between different pro tunes, and between OTS maps and pro tunes. One primary target is the octane adjust ratio (OAR Lrn). We want that to be at -1 so the ECU is giving full compensation for the fuel that you're using. Usually this gets set back to 0 after a reflash from a new source. You can check this buy looking at the Octane Adjust Ratio Lrn PID on the AP. When you flash a new revision from the same tuner, the OAR usually stays where it was on the last flash and does not reset. Here is an easy procedure to force it back to -1 quickly: It takes a little load and boost over a span of time to get the OAR to quickly adjust. If you have a V3, set one gauge to show ign corr cyl 1 and one to OAR. For a V2, just watch the IGN corr cyl 1. Get on a highway or long slightly uphill road in 4th gear around 30-40 mph. Give it just enough throttle to hit 2-4 psi of boost. Hold it there and watch the cyl corrections climb up to max (+4.00). Hold it there for a few seconds and lift. You should see the OAR jump after you lift. (V2 guys will need to scroll to the OAR PID to check) Repeat until it's -1. You need to be very steady on the throttle. Any variation will not allow the ign corrections to climb. Once the OAR is at -1, it's time to prepare the car for logging. This is the list I like to see on the first file. If you have a V2, you can drop Knock Count 2 & 4 and TIP Act. Datalog list: Airflow Mass Actual AFR Boost Charge temp ETC Angle Engine RPM Ign Corr Cyl 1 Ign Corr Cyl 2 Ign Corr Cyl 3 Ign Corr Cyl 4 Ign Timing Cyl 1 Knock Count 1-4 Load LTFT STFT Octane Adjust Ratio Lrn TIP Actual Abs WGDC Actual After all of that is complete, we want to let the ECU adjust itself to the new tune and fuel. Many cars show poor results after a reflash. You may see some minor negative corrections or boost spikes, but after 3 or 4 WOT pulls, the data looks great and usually is asking for more. So I like to do a few short pulls after a fresh tune is loaded. 2k rpm to 3k rpm, then 2k to 4k, and 3k to 5k, and so on. This helps stabilize the tune and lets the ECU re-learn. After a few pulls like that, you're ready to log. First, and VERY important, is to make sure the car is up to operating temperature. 175*F is MINIMUM and 185*F+ is perfect. Don't use the factory coolant temp gauge as it's not even close! Check the coolant temp on the AP if you just started to drive the car. If you've been driving for a while, it's probably ok, however I like to make sure by checking it. Next is putting the car in "Sport Mode" by pressing the ESC button below the heater controls. Have the car in 3rd gear around 2500 rpm. Hit the start button on the AP. The values will disappear for a short time and then reappear. When you see the value(s) come back, it's time to go WOT. Run the car up to 6200 rpm (or whatever you can safely do) and lift off the throttle. Hit the stop button on the AP after lifting. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times to get a good span of data. They don't need to be back to back, and it's always good to let the car cool down (especially on the stock intercooler) before doing another. Another quirk in logging is starting at too low of an rpm. On a tune with higher boost levels we can get negative corrections down where the boost spikes up. This can affect the timing startegy through the entire pull. If you start at 2000 rpm or less, and see negative corrections in the log, I suggest doing a pull or two starting at 3000 rpm. This can clean up what the knock sensors are picking up in the low rpm range and make for a more accurate log in the actual power band of the car. Most people do not start racing at WOT in 4th gear at 2000 rpm. I also feel that putting that much load on the engine is not good for it. There really isn't a good reason to push 24 psi of boost at 2000 rpm in high gears. 2500 -2800 is a good starting point for data. When you email datalogs, please keep them in .csv format. It's ok if you want to change the name on them, just don't change the file type. Hope that helps!! Matt
Very nice info
 

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Ill be starting my logs when I get your guys FMIC and charge pipes in...I wanna have it set before my time attack event in July....being out here in cali we only have 91 pump but I know of a few places I can get 100...so I might get one for 91 and one for 100...but Im also thinking of doing a 91/100 mix...any pros or cons about that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ill be starting my logs when I get your guys FMIC and charge pipes in...I wanna have it set before my time attack event in July....being out here in cali we only have 91 pump but I know of a few places I can get 100...so I might get one for 91 and one for 100...but Im also thinking of doing a 91/100 mix...any pros or cons about that?
Not a problem. We can set up the map with multiple slots to include a tune for your 91 fuel, and another slot for a mix, and another for straight 100 if you want. Pretty much all pros!
Only 2 cons I can think of. 1. We have to tune each slot independently for each fuel, starting with 91 and working up. So it takes more logging and time to dial in multi gas maps. 2. You're responsible for putting the car in the correct map slot for the fuel. If you have 91 in the tank and forget to change from the 100 slot, kaboom. The only way around that is to make different maps that have to be reflashed each time. Not as convenient, but may be easier to remember.
 
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