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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey FocusST.org!, I have already started my build but I figured I would give the 2015's some more representation and post some reviews and information I have gathered, while also keeping everyone updated on future mods. First just some background information about myself, I am 24 and live in DFW, Texas. This is my first personal project I am working on. But I grew up helping my father rebuild his 1971 Corvette, a project we are still working on today. I will update people on that project if more are interested.

Before my ST I drove a 2001 Series 7 BMW for about a year. It was an amazing car but I soon learned how much of a money pit some BMW's become so I sold it and purchased a used 2008 MKV Rabbit. The only thing we did to the rabbit was an intake and a ECU reprogramming. Until this year I was happy driving my slow car around, and it held up really well, but I decided to get myself something nicer. So I gave the VW to my twin sisters that turned 16 at the time (RIP Rabbit) and went out and purchased my 2015 Focus ST.

Here are some pics from when I first got it.
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Here are pics of it now:

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Like I said guys, Ill be posting reviews of the mods I already have and all future projects here. I appreciate you guys stopping by and if you have any questions just let me know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The modifications will be listed in the order I put them on the car.
Updated: 11/12/2015
Modifications:
Cobb Short Shift Plate
Needless Torque Collaborations Shifter Bushing
Rally Armor Mud Flaps
Cobb Green Filter
Garage Line Pedal Spacer
CFM Rear Motor Mount
Cobb AP3 Stage 1 Tune
CFM Performance Billet Cap
TFB Designs Ford OEM Vinyl Covers
Milltek Sports Exhaust
Cobb Exhaust Hangers
Depo Racing 3.5" Intercooler
Cobb OTS Stage 2
Stratified E30 Tune
Damond Motorsports OCC
AnarchyMotive Shift Nob
AEM Dry Flow Filter
Boosted Designs Solid Shift and Transmission Bushings
Roof, mirror and lower lip vinyl wrapped gloss black
Denso (5340) ITV22 Iridium Spark Plugs
Unleashed Tuning Catless Downpipe
Rebel Devil Customs DP Bracket
Steeda Rear Sway Bar
Stratified 6.0 2015 E30 Update

Coming Soon:
CFM Extreme Rear Motor Mount
TTR Passenger and Transmission Motor Mounts
 

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love the new front ends, but I like my rear end better :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So it has been awhile since I have updated so I thought I would share some things that have been going on. When I created this thread my car was sitting at Stage 2 and I just got my E30 tune. I have been running the tune now for about 7,000 miles and so far it has been completely flawless. I do a 3rd gear log at least once a week, on the same road and my power is always consistent. I rarely experience any negative corrections until recently but that was found to be caused by a RMM failure.

Back in October I purchased several parts that I added onto the car. The first one was the Boomba Intake Manifold spacer. The Spacer added noticeable throttle response but the power gains were a little underwhelming. In their defense, no matter what you do, sooner or later the KO3 just reaches a point where gains will always be minimal. The throttle response alone though made the purchase worth it. My virtual dyno graphs confirmed my theory of increased throttle response and show the boost and tq coming on sooner in the power band. The total gain between my virtual dyno was only about 5wtq.

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I also changed my oil and changed out my spark plugs to Denso (5340) ITV22 Iridium Spark Plugs. They have been running great. The stock ones were fine when I examined them but I decided to switch them out regardless. These are one step colder plugs.

My next purchase was a Unleashed Tuning 3inch Downpipe. I also ordered Rebel Devils downpipe bracket because I read how many people have destroyed theirs. One thing I was disappointed about was that Unleashed Tuning did not provide me a 3inch gasket to replace the 2.5 inch stock. After contacting him he informed me to reuse the stock one and didn't provide me any other option. So I went ahead and ordered 3 online. I was unable to get around to installing it until this past weekend though. Luckily the fitment was spot on and there were no issues installing the downpipe. The only issue I had was the damn vband clamp but that was expected. I absolutely love the sound of my Milltek now and it was even GF approved. I personally love the smell it creates with the e30 mixture.
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While I was installing the DP I decided to add extra pins to the CFM RMM since I will be increasing the stress. To my discovery the RMM was completely shot. The RMM had 4 pins and was their 68A version. I know for 100% fact the pins were installed properly and aligned with the pins on the opposite side of where the engine connects. When I removed it this past weekend, the pins were on the opposite side, had begun working their way out and had cracked the bushings around the pins. This was only after 6 months of use in my car but I installed them roughly the same time I went stage 2 and to e30. I have never tracked my car but I will admit I drive aggressively from time to time.

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I was disappointed and concerned at the same time. When the mount was first installed, I felt it was a very strong mount and I noticed the increase in stiffness. It wasn't until this month that I felt an increase in engine movement and the wheel hop return. I had not planned to check on the mount as I figured the increase in movement was it just breaking in more or normal as people have reported similar things with Cobb and other mounts. I am glad I decided to add extra pins with the downpipe as I don't want to think what would of happened if the mount continued to be used.

I contacted CFM by Email the night of the install (Sunday) and they called me the next day. After a short conversation of the phone, asking about conditions and mods of the car, they informed me they will be sending me a new mount and upgraded me to the "Extreme" 85a version. He also informed me to run it with 4 pins and I should be okay. I am upset about how the product performed but I love when companies provide great customer service. He could of easily told me I used it improperly or even ignored my emails. Instead they immediately contacted me and made things right. I will be getting the new RMM tomorrow evening and I will be immediately installing it on the car and will do an impressions write up. I have been running the Efocus mount since I made my discovery and the CFM broken mount still felt more stable than this piece of ****.

After realizing how much stress this has probably put the other mounts under, I went ahead and ordered the TTR Passenger and Driver side mounts today. I don't want to take the chances of any of my mounts failing again.

I also installed a Steeda Rear Sway Bar but unfortunately I haven't been confident enough to fully test the product. Until I at least get the CFM RMM tomorrow, I don't plan on driving the car hard. I will update more when I get the rest installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow, I've honestly never seen a RMM go like that! Nice to know they sent you a replacement!
That's what they told me too. He sounded genuinely confused about how it happened. But I told him I installed it straight from the box with 4 pins in and in the proper position. I guess my car is just making more torque than any ST before. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thought I would post this as I am running out of performance mods for my car until I got Big Turbo. This is comparing two Vdynos I have done. One is when I first went Stage 1 with Cobb OTS and the second is my car as it sits now. I do all my Vdynos on the same road, same lane in the exact same starting location. I am in no way saying these numbers are a true representation of power but more for demonstrating the gains the car has made.

Stage 1 vs stage 3 e30.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I didn't really post much because I didn't feel like I had any new info to share that couldn't already be found elsewhere on the forum. But now that my motor is dead, I will be pulling it myself and decided to document the whole thing for anyone that will be interested. After it is pulled I will be taking it to AWD Tuning which is a local shop here in Flower Mound. I will be taking pictures and possibly video of the whole process I do as well as posting all the pictures AWD Tuning will be providing me during their tear and rebuild process. I hope I can provide new and insightful information for anyone that is looking to tackle this themselves in the future.

To start I will reshare my post in the "Blown Motor Thread" so it will be easily available for everyone who is interested. Thank you and I look forward to what the future holds.

Out of failure, comes opportunity.


Username: DaggerMouth

Car and Year: Focus ST 2015

Mileage: 52k

What failed: 90 psi cylinder 1

Turbo: GTX 2971
Engine Modifications: Full Bolt ons, Denso ITV24 plugs, Damond Motorsports PCV plate with customer pcv valve setup, CFM Breather Cap
Tune: Adam Tuned/ Purple Drank 93 octane

Under what circumstances did it fail: Unknown. The car still had no signs of failure other than blowby out CFM Oil cap breather and low oil. Drove normal and still hit +4 corrections. Piston slap on cold startups but always smoothed out when warm. Idle exhaust sound changed to sound more lopey.

Any signs prior to failure?: About 2 week ago I switched tuners in preparations for auxfueling. I only had a 93 tune with Adam and decided to switch to Ryan from Purple Drank. I would do logs for Ryan and then switch back to my finished tune by Adam. One day in between I popped the hood and valve cover was covered in oil. Did a quick check of plugs and didn't have any signs and I foolishly didn't compression check. I misdiagnosed the issue as a pcv valve failure. Ended up replacing the stock plate with a Damond Motorsports plate and replaced the PCV valve with a custom setup. After pcv valve change I still had oil coming out under boost. However the car still had +4 corrections and showed no problems with doing revisions other than the blow by. I decided to monitor it for a few days see what happens.
I popped the hood again and oil poured out the cap and this time my oil was low. Cleaned it all up and drove it normally to Autozone and back but still noticed blowby when I got home. Removed the plugs and could smell of oil in cylinder 1. I did a compression check and cylinder 1 only held 90psi. The rest read 140. My guess is the gauge wasn't accurate and may actually be around 100psi with a more accurate gauge seeing how the others were all the same but low from factory specs.

Warranty?: Not going to try. Taking the motor to AWD Tuning in Flower Mound to do a full rebuild. Ryan will be tuning the car again when it is complete.

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
So today I didn't do anything new to the car yet. I went to a local store and picked up a cherry picker. This has the ability to hold up to 2 tons so it will be strong enough to lift this tiny engine. I also picked up a engine level for it as well. I got this all from a local wholesale store local to me in DFW called 7 Star Tools. Total for everything was $200. Seemed like a pretty fair price and should save me some money on rental costs. There will be a few other STs local that will be tackling this as well so it will get plenty of use in the future.

Today in the mail I received my Speed Perf6rmanc3 port injection kit. This beauty will have to sit in a box for a few months until it is ready to be installed. Unfortunately they were out of split second controllers so that will be arriving on a separate date but with the engine condition it doesn't really bother me. I have been dabbling with the idea of ordering a new Ford Racing Head and using that on the new motor. Just haven't found out how or who will make me the custom manifold and new downpipe. If I decided to go this route I would probably make a custom silicone intake. Right now I can't justify going this route but I will definitely be more interested if we discover damage to the head or once I get a better idea of all the costs that would be associated with the switch. Currently waiting on a reply from AWD Tuning to get an estimate on the extra costs or how much it would save compared to rebuilding the old one.

I did however get a quote and some more information on what AWD Tuning plans on using in the rebuild and thought I would share. AWDTuning does not mark up any costs on parts but instead makes their money on labor. So far the rebuild plan is as follows:
-JE Forged Pistons
-Carrillo Connecting Rods
-King or ACL Rod/Main bearings
-Re-polished Stock Crank
-Standard Case bolts and Main bolts
As for the head they will do a vacuum test and inspect valves. At that point I will decide to reuse the existing head or switch to Ford Racing.
-JE Pro Seal Ford 302/351W SVO 4.1in 0.039in Head Gasket
-APR Head Stud Kit
-ACT Clutch Kit

I am the second ST they are building. They built another ST that was running a EFR 7163 a few years back. So I have full confidence in their capabilities to make this car a reliable and powerful setup. I did decide to keep Ryan from Purple Drank Tuning as the tuner for the car. He has always been there to let me pick his brain and has been an awesome guy to work with so far. I highly recommend him to anyone looking for a knowledgeable tuner. We are both looking forward to pushing this car to the limit.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sorry to hear about your motor. but I beat you cant wait to have a built one dropped back in. should last longer and take a whole lot more abuse.

Should have budgeted for a 2.3 kit ;)

look forward to more
I actually asked them about a 2.3 kit, just waiting on a response. I also asked about a Balance shaft delete. I kinda want to get this all approved by them as they will not warranty builds if the parts are not provided through them. So it all depends on what they are willing to do and what they can get from their vendors. The nice thing is they don't mark up parts as they focus on making money on the labor. They will build engines with parts provided by other companies but then they will not provide a warranty for the build. They used to but they said they had too many issues with parts provided to them by customers so they changed their warranty policy and removed the markup on parts they provided to encourage customers from going alternative routes. I will also be looking into getting a LSD while the tranny sits in my garage. That probably won't be done by them.

AWDTuning is right down the road from me so I'd rather keep them happy and have that peace of mind than having to send my engine across the country if something went wrong. They build a ton of Evos, Subarus and have also done a few Mazda Speeds as well as one other ST that are all turned out to be impressive machines so I know it will be in good hands. Mary, the owner, is very particular about the cars they build and will constantly be recommending upgrades to provide a more reliable enjoyable experience for her customers. She wants her customers to not only be provided a reliable setup but also wants them to learn something about their cars a long the way. She is constantly contacting her customers, messaging hundreds of pictures of each process and explaining why and what needs to be done. All of that information I will be posting on here when the time comes for my build.

An interesting thing about AWDTuning is they do not accept all the money upfront. Instead they break up the builds into stages with payments for each stage. I will pay for engine tear down one engine delivery. Then they will quote me for parts and rebuild and will not continue on to the next stage until payment is received. The final payment, which is the smallest, is due on pickup. They make the pickup payment the cheapest to encourage customers to get their **** out of their shop. They have zero storage fees for active customers and you become and inactive customer after 60 days of no communication. I think this is an awesome way to break up an engine build as it provides customers an exit at any point. We don't have to worry about life hitting us with an unexpected payment part way through and instead and stop at any stage of the build. Normally it is broken up into 4-5 stages but since I am pulling the motor myself, I will skip a few and only have to worry about 2-3 stages. That all depends on the condition of the head when they vacuum test it which they will have the results for after a few days of drop off.

I am beyond excited to get this going. Having to drive my beater Mazda cx9 just isn't the same. I go through withdraws after not hitting at least 20PSI daily. That is probably why my car died, it has took 53k of hard daily abuse and track days. This will be a long painful next few weeks but I know in the end it will be worth it. This car has been such an enjoyment for me and I will never let it go unless you pry it from my cold dead hands. :big smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Did some more work today. Took off alot of things off. Here are some pictures of my valve with 53k miles on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So did some more work today. We decided the best route was to remove the crash bar and pull the engine straight out the front. We removed the front bumper, radiator and intercooler, wiper fluid reservoir and all the wires attached to the front bumper/crash bar. Took us a few hours but we made some good progress. Tomorrow we will begin stripping more of the block. 16807793_1645611515454207_4187798340773910529_n.jpg 16807406_1645612085454150_7452695919614418034_n.jpg 16730142_1645612362120789_5717694119726433129_n.jpg 16729574_1645611868787505_5355342677129851867_n.jpg 16729515_1645611775454181_3425409307907519969_n.jpg 16729506_1645612202120805_262319109064240936_n.jpg 16729145_1645611535454205_8810922144888314372_n.jpg 16712036_1645611582120867_7401774830237567893_n.jpg 16711826_1645611672120858_500826214751385445_n.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So today I finished up removing all the accessories as well as the wire harness. While most people would probably elect to remove the wires after pulling the engine, due to limited space in the garage we decided to remove everything with it still mounted in the car. It actually wasn't that difficult and didn't take much time at all. The hardest part were the few connections in the back but we were able to get it done. We have every wire connection labeled as well as every piece of hardware removed and put into labeled bags. This will help us keep track of where everything will go and what goes together. All we have left before it can be removed is to pull the trans axles as well as remove the motor mounts. Then it is off to AWDTuning for the rebuild!

I have made the decision to delete the AC for the rebuild as I never use it. It always created annoying vibrations and made the car feel like it was going to stall from a dig. I will no longer be using the car as a daily after the rebuild so it shouldn't be that much of a problem even with Texas heat. I have literally only used it 3 times since owning the car. Other than that, I don't have any updates from AWDTuning on the build plan. After they get the motor and tear it down, we should get a better idea of the costs and from there Ill decide the rest. Right now is one of those times I wish the remote in the movie "Click" was real and I could fast forward to the day everything was done. Only having my CX9 to drive is killing me. :wink:

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2.3? go 2.5 :D
 
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