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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there everyone. I've had the opportunity to be able to test a downpipe from a new vendor to the Focus platform so I thought I'd write a little review.

This is a 400 Cell downpipe, so this would be a good choice if you would like to stay close to stock emissions wise, but get rid of the bottleneck caused by the OE pipe.
Made of T304 stainless steel so it shouldn't rust much.

I currently have an MBRP resonated catback and it didn't cause any noticeable additional drone on the highway. It was a little louder on a cold start but not anything crazy. You could even hear a little turbo spool through the exhaust which was nice.

The welds all looked good on the outside and inside and my mechanic buddy helping out on the install had many good things to say about the fab work.
Brillo pad mount was spot on and all the O2 sensors threaded in cleanly.
They included all necessary gaskets and even an adapter from 3"to 2.5" for those with stock exhaust which was nice.

Flex section was long enough and provided enough give for my liking, nowhere near as floppy as the OE pipe.
It's been on the car for around 20 days at the time of this post and I've had no issues.
I've put over 1000 miles on the car since install and have done 2 hard mountain driving sessions, 1 pissed off day leaving work, and 1 road rally.
I've been under there and checked everything out a couple of times just to check if all the welds are holding fine and they are.

In full disclosure, the only negative things from the entire install was the downpipe hangar legs were slightly off in length and angle which I have been in contact with @CVF-Jason extensively and they are getting it fixed.


Here's a sound clip right after the install. (Mechanic buddy is a little floor happy with my throttle. 馃槅)


To be clear, The rattle you can hear is from my wastegate slowly dying, nothing in the exhaust caused it.
Feel free to PM me if you would like any additional pictures.
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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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Great write up & good looking part. I've been looking forward to this post.

J
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett GTX2860R Gen 2. FBO
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This is a preproduction model on his car. Keep an eye on CVFs vendor section for the release, or make a thread down there asking about dates if you're interested.

Edit: nevermind, i swore he had a vendor section down below. @Duece McCracken am i crazy or was it there and did it disappear?
 

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16 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS ac K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc, CNT cat, 3" pipe, Steeda RMM
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It does look nice. Did you notice any improvement gain? I'm considering a catted downpipe but it's a fairly costly upgrade. I've seen YouTubers say it's a must have, first upgrade but then I've read on the forum it's worth 5 hp +/- on a stock or mild tune. Not sure if it's worth the money and effort... Your thoughts?
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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It does look nice. Did you notice any improvement gain? I'm considering a catted downpipe but it's a fairly costly upgrade. I've seen YouTubers say it's a must have, first upgrade but then I've read on the forum it's worth 5 hp +/- on a stock or mild tune. Not sure if it's worth the money and effort... Your thoughts?
It's less to do with HP and more to do with increasing the engine's efficiency. Reducing the amount of back pressure at the factory catalytic converter help to relax the drive pressure on the tiny pissed off hairdryer masquerading as turbocharger (K03). The more efficient the flow of the exhaust the better cylinder exhaust scavenging, longer lifespan of the turbocharger, & overall ability to produce more power in the future will be.

I'm sure these units will be reasonably-priced as compared to their competitors. Especially will the renewed government over reach into our personal lives and the massive financial impact on the industry its great to see a quality product being produced for our platform. Especially now since it's no longer being actively produced for the USDM.

And I will absolutely agree with to that it's one of the most important beginning upgrades to your ST. In my opinion however it's the second on the list. Upgrading your intercooler should be #1 followed by the DP. Even if you have no intentions of ever tuning or adding any other performance modifications to it. These two items will keep you running safely into the future.

I'm very interested in the final product and cost as I would possibly like to pick one up for myself in the future. @CVF-Jason


Stay Safe
J
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Like @TurboGT mentioned. This was a preproduction test piece. I'm sure they'll update pricing once they get some more in stock welded up.

It does look nice. Did you notice any improvement gain?
I can't tell any gain on the butt dyno but I'm 300% sure the engine is breathing better.
@SSgtjrobertson post is spot on on explaining this.

Not sure if it's worth the money and effort... Your thoughts?
As far as money, that's up to you to decide.
My personal opinion is yes, it's definitely worth it.
I'm sure this unit will be much more reasonably priced than some of the big name brand, with the same build quality.
As far as effort, I've had to remove my stock DP for O2 sensor replacement so I put a TON of antisieze on everything reinstalling the OE unit. It all came out super easy other than the OE unit has a massive cat section and is super heavy.

It took maybe 2.5 hours of screwing around having a good time with my buddy just talking and catching up.
I could've probably finished up under an hour and a half if I just went right at it.

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Bottleneck in the OE pipe. It smooshes in right around the upper O2 sensor.
I can take some additional pictures for you if you want a clearer view of the OE bottleneck.
I didn't really take many of that one, I was looking at the shiny new one most of the time. Lol
 

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16 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS ac K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc, CNT cat, 3" pipe, Steeda RMM
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It's less to do with HP and more to do with increasing the engine's efficiency. Reducing the amount of back pressure at the factory catalytic converter help to relax the drive pressure on the tiny pissed off hairdryer masquerading as turbocharger (K03). The more efficient the flow of the exhaust the better cylinder exhaust scavenging, longer lifespan of the turbocharger, & overall ability to produce more power in the future will be.

I'm sure these units will be reasonably-priced as compared to their competitors. Especially will the renewed government over reach into our personal lives and the massive financial impact on the industry its great to see a quality product being produced for our platform. Especially now since it's no longer being actively produced for the USDM.

And I will absolutely agree with to that it's one of the most important beginning upgrades to your ST. In my opinion however it's the second on the list. Upgrading your intercooler should be #1 followed by the DP. Even if you have no intentions of ever tuning or adding any other performance modifications to it. These two items will keep you running safely into the future.

I'm very interested in the final product and cost as I would possibly like to pick one up for myself in the future. @CVF-Jason


Stay Safe
J
Thanks for the info.
I do have a bigger Intercooler, tune, air cleaner and resonator delete. Sounds like getting less restriction with a better designed downpipe couldn't do anything but help. Probably next on my to do list.
 

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15 TB Focus ST3
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Nice, high quality appearing piece, also never bad to have an extra bung-hole!

Thanks for the review.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Are you running a non-fouler on the downstream sensor?
Didn't for the first few days till it arrived in the mail, then installed it when I was looking for the rattle I was hearing.
Didn't throw a code so maybe it won't without a non fouler.
I was under the assumption that it took a few drive cycles for the CEL to trigger if it wanted to go off.
I didn't want to deal with a code so I just went ahead and ordered a kung fu unit of Ebay courtesy of @SSgtjrobertson for the heads up on a cheap one.
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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The 400 cell catted unit shouldn't trigger a CEL. In fact it would alert you to possible catalytic converter failure if installed without a defouler. Your call.
 
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So if equipped with a defouler the rear O2 sensor will not trigger the CEL and associated DTC. The biggest issue with installing a defouler or manipulating the Bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor via a resistor is not being warned of a potential catastrophic failure. I have seen this first hand locally at a buy here, pay here lot. It's a way to trick the PCM (and buyer) that everything is functioning properly when in reality the catalyst was severely impacted.

I really only suggest a defouler for non catted DP's or if the cell count is very low
 
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