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I work as a total loss adjuster for a large insurance company so this is right up my alley. How we determine if a car is totaled is... We take the ACV and subtract the salvage value from it. If the cost to repair is more than that value, the vehicle will total via insurance. The ACV for a 2013 with 135k on it would be around 11k- 12k if I had to guess. Subtract 30% of that (salvage value 12k x .3 = 3600) 12k-3600 = 8400. If that cost to repair exceeds 8400, the vehicle will total. Looks like it needs both fenders, headlight, and repair to the hood. Cant tell if the frt bumper needs replacement or not, cant tell if the radiator support or side rails need replacement neither. If its just the fenders, headlight, and hood... It probably wont total. If it needs a core support or rails or really any inner structure part, it will probably total.
 

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I work in GA and state laws vary but how the process should go is... After you report the accident, your claim owner will ask you to record a statement and upload pics to the claim. Based off the interview and pictures, the claim owner will punch the info in and it will give the claim owner an idea of if it's repairable or not. Sometimes, the claim owner will just send your car to a shop and have an adjuster come out and take a look at it. A lot of shops are at capacity right now so sometimes the claim owner will send the vehicle to a salvage yard so it doesnt incur a storage fee. An adjuster gets sent to the salvage yard to inspect it if thats the case. Just depends on your insurance company, the capacity of service shops in your area, etc. You have a little more leverage if you get it towed to your house after the accident. If it gets towed to a wrecker service yard, it will incur storage fees
 

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Also do they go off of private party value or what for totals
No. The ACV is given for totaled cars. If you own the vehicle outright & have the title, the insurance company will send the ACV minus your deductible to you via check. If you have a leinholder, the ACV will be paid out to them. If you're upside down on the car, you will owe the difference. If you're ahead of the car, you will get whatever is left after the leinholder is paid.
 

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I was told that totalling a car likely takes place if the airbags deploy, or the damage approaches 75% of the cars value. If that's true, and your car is worth $15k, the damage would need to be in the $11000 range or beyond for an insurance company to total the car.

Your insurance company has an estimator who will determine the approximate cost to repair. If they total it, you'll receive an offer for the car (NEVER accept the first offer. They'll turn around and make you a better one). You may be able to buy the car back at some negotiated rate, and use the payout to repair it the way you see fit.

Sorry this happened. What type of tires were you running?
Not exactly true. Airbags, yes.. Just because it costs a ton to replace the airbag + corresponding parts. I'd say if the damage approaches 40%-50%, it will total out. Most shops dont want to touch anything that has that much dmg because they become liable if that cant fix it properly. Most insurance companies will NOT turn around and give you a better offer if there's not a cause to. As an insured, you do have the right to hire an independent appraiser however and thats when things get interesting. If it's deemed a total, you can salvage owner retain. The vehicle can be purchased for it's salvage value if you have the title but the title will be deemed as an insurance loss (salvage title) depending on your state.
 

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You seem informed (I may not be). My information comes from a claims adjuster friend who works for State Farm, but from 5 or 6 years ago. At that time- I was told the threshold for totaling a car (per State Farm anyway) was 80% value, but that it may decline, which is why I opined 75%. That same adjuster told me to never accept the first offer- so given that he's an adjuster, and told me that it's common practice to provide a low offer first- I felt comfortable passing on that advice. It too may be incorrect, but that is what I was told first-hand.
It's all good!! I dont work for State Farm so your friend is probably right as far as their process goes. After I condition a car for unrelated prior damage, I automatically get an ACV based on comps near the insured's zip code. I dont have the ability to change those comps so unless the insured has an atty, the ACV is what it is. I guess that's because most people will find comps that are in their favor and may not represent the ACV (finding marked up/ overpiced comps). I just wanted to give the OP the run down as to what they may expect currently since its my 9-5 lol. States have different laws and different insurance companies have different procedures so we're all right here lol.
 
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