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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Took the ST out yesterday for an autox event on a pretty long course, best time of the day was 68sec, i ran 80 and placed 5th in novice out of 21... only .3sec out of 3rd... but thats not the point lol. I have a stage 3 FoST with coilovers and my engine temp after a back to back run since my friend and I were co-driving my car would get to 240s and on one back to back run at the end of the day it spiked to 257! It would come right down after I would get in the pit area but that is wayyy too high.

I have a shaved grill and all shrouding removed. I have metal guides I am going to put in to box in the radiator after I get the last piece. Are these cars generally running hot oil or hot coolant? Trying to figure out if I need to get an oil cooler or bigger radiator.

Are there cheap oil cooler options or am I stuck paying $500?
 

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Hey Guys,

Took the ST out yesterday for an autox event on a pretty long course, best time of the day was 68sec, i ran 80 and placed 5th in novice out of 21... only .3sec out of 3rd... but thats not the point lol. I have a stage 3 FoST with coilovers and my engine temp after a back to back run since my friend and I were co-driving my car would get to 240s and on one back to back run at the end of the day it spiked to 257! It would come right down after I would get in the pit area but that is wayyy too high.

I have a shaved grill and all shrouding removed. I have metal guides I am going to put in to box in the radiator after I get the last piece. Are these cars generally running hot oil or hot coolant? Trying to figure out if I need to get an oil cooler or bigger radiator.

Are there cheap oil cooler options or am I stuck paying $500?
Are we talking about the gauge up by the boost gauge? Or the one by your fuel gauge? You said coolant, but the coolant gauge doesn't have temps listed on the gauge unless your year is different than mine.

If you are looking at the cluster by the boost gauge then it's your oil. Which leads me to ask the normal questions:

What kind of oil?
Are you low on oil?
Is the oil old?
What weight is the oil?
How much oil to you put into the car?

Yes, that's pretty high and I've never seen mine go that high even when autocrossing in a wide open course where I could do WOT at times in 2nd.
 

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Oil cooler is a must for hard driving in hot weather; a radiator would not be a bad idea either. Shrouding the radiator should help. I would not cheap out on the oil cooler, get a good one. Mishimoto makes nice stuff.
 

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Are we talking about the gauge up by the boost gauge? Or the one by your fuel gauge? You said coolant, but the coolant gauge doesn't have temps listed on the gauge unless your year is different than mine.

If you are looking at the cluster by the boost gauge then it's your oil. Which leads me to ask the normal questions:

What kind of oil?
Are you low on oil?
Is the oil old?
What weight is the oil?
How much oil to you put into the car?

Yes, that's too high and I've never seen mine go that high even when autocrossing in a wide open course where I could do WOT at times in 2nd.
I'm assuming he is using his AccessPort.
 

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I'm assuming he is using his AccessPort.
Right, which is still the same as the corresponding gauge in the cluster. He still must have something off if it is getting that high..I've never gotten mine that high driving hard even on HOT days. He's in Boston so he isn't seeing 100+ yet this year or anything ridiculous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yea the temp was off my accessport. it was high 80s and the track surface temp was about 115 from what i remember. my wheels were too hot to even touch without getting burned. still I think that it should not have gotten that hot so I will box my radiator and monitor my temps. is there a less expensive oil cooler option without paying $500? On the highway my temps hover between 188 to 198 depending on how fast I am going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also it was a corvette club course so it was a very fast course, i was redlining 2nd several times. new 5w30 mobil1.
 

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Is there a less expensive oil cooler option without paying $500?
One worth buying brand new, no.

I'm sure there's one for cheap on ebay or something, but you'll probably spring a leak or it's cooling coefficient may be awful or near stock such that the improvement in oil temp isn't worth it compared to a more expensive one. For example, a $250 unit may take you to like 235 from 260 instead of some more money bringing it down to 200ish. Not sure of the accuracy of those numbers because I just made them up, but cheap is cheap for a reason. If you aren't happy with your cars performance on the track and are willing to fix it, why only fix it a little bit? Trust me, I understand what it's like to be an enthusiast who cheaps out. I used to only buy the cheapest stuff I could get (racelands etc) and it's not even remotely worth it. One day you're going to kick yourself saying you should have just bought the really good expensive one.

I briefly skimmed this thread, good reference, a guy built one for $400 if you're handy and your time is worth the money saved

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-road-racing/51106-oil-cooler-must-2.html
 

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The effect of properly shrouding a radiator is very frequently overlooked. without a shroud a radiator they can easily be 1/3 less effecient. I would start there
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
fair enough guys, going to start with shrouding the radiator and log some temps.
 
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The effect of properly shrouding a radiator is very frequently overlooked. without a shroud a radiator they can easily be 1/3 less effecient. I would start there
Certainly that was my experience even just driving on the highway in hot weather. Put the shrouds back in and problem solved (required some trimming of the AGS frame on the bottom; I have a 2013).

Note that Mishimoto's new FMIC has install instructions that include replacing the bottom front shroud.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Yup, put the oem shroud setup back in. I autox and dont have that issue as bad, even on real hot days. The order I see temps being a concern to adress are Charge air, oil temps, and coolant temps. MY coolant temps stay in the 190s. I would get a brief blip touching the 200s but right away after a run its like 187ish or so.

Open of the shutters or just get a tune to disable them so they are always open. With the factory setup as soon as you come back from a run and shut the car off, the shutters close. That doesnt help at all. Keep those shutters open and you will have solved a majority of your cooling issues for autox.

Even monitoring my runs through the hottest days, looking at the numbers I have seen no need to attempt to adress the coolant system. That will be more likely if I take it out on a roadcourse. Keep in mind, the engine will perform better when hot, its your charge and intake air you want to be cool. Its just that you have to keep things in check like boiling and what not. Its not uncommon to see ACTUAL Race cars running 40+ psi pressures on the coolant systems to make them run as hot as possible without boiling. Professional level, not the weekend HPDE warrior.
 
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