I noticed a coolant loss after driving 1000 miles on a road trip. I occasionally notice a faint smell of coolant, but no can't find the leak anywhere so I took it in to my local dealership and they came back saying that they've seen this problem multiple times before but have no solution and don't know where it's coming from. I haven't noticed any white smoke coming from the exhaust and the oil looks fine. Any ideas?
Coolant leak, dealership doesn't know where it's coming from
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There is only two places coolant can leak. External or Internal.
If there are no external leaks then it has to be internal.
The best way to check for an internal leak is to complete the following procedure.
1. When the engine is cold, pressurize the degas bottle with an appropriate tool to normal coolant pressures. Typically 20-21 PSI.
2. Get the engine to operating temperature with the tool still installed on the degas bottle.
3. Once at operating temperature, shut the engine off and allow it to cold soak over night.
4. The next day, remove the spark plugs and use a bore scope to inspect the combustion chamber.
If there is coolant pooling in the cylinder then there is an issue with the head, head gasket or the short block. The head will have to be removed for further inspection for cracks, warpage, etc. There is a procedure in the WSM (workshop manual) to check for head and short block flatness. The head can also be pressure tested at a machine shop but in my opinion, that is a waste of time. If there are absolutely no faults with the head, gasket or block then I would replaced the head and the head gasket as they are the most likely.
If there is no coolant in the combustion chamber then remove the down pipe from the turbocharger and check for signs of coolant which will be a white residue
If coolant is found then either is an internal leak within the turbo charger or there is a porosity fault within the head. If the turbocharger is at fault, there may be signs of coolant in the CAC (charge air cooler) tubes in which case the turbo charger should be replaced. If there is no coolant in the CAC tubes then the head would be the most likely as it is a sign of a porosity concern.
This is how your dealer should be checking for coolant loss, if they are not then they are most likely wrong.
If there are no external leaks then it has to be internal.
The best way to check for an internal leak is to complete the following procedure.
1. When the engine is cold, pressurize the degas bottle with an appropriate tool to normal coolant pressures. Typically 20-21 PSI.
2. Get the engine to operating temperature with the tool still installed on the degas bottle.
3. Once at operating temperature, shut the engine off and allow it to cold soak over night.
4. The next day, remove the spark plugs and use a bore scope to inspect the combustion chamber.
If there is coolant pooling in the cylinder then there is an issue with the head, head gasket or the short block. The head will have to be removed for further inspection for cracks, warpage, etc. There is a procedure in the WSM (workshop manual) to check for head and short block flatness. The head can also be pressure tested at a machine shop but in my opinion, that is a waste of time. If there are absolutely no faults with the head, gasket or block then I would replaced the head and the head gasket as they are the most likely.
If there is no coolant in the combustion chamber then remove the down pipe from the turbocharger and check for signs of coolant which will be a white residue
If coolant is found then either is an internal leak within the turbo charger or there is a porosity fault within the head. If the turbocharger is at fault, there may be signs of coolant in the CAC (charge air cooler) tubes in which case the turbo charger should be replaced. If there is no coolant in the CAC tubes then the head would be the most likely as it is a sign of a porosity concern.
This is how your dealer should be checking for coolant loss, if they are not then they are most likely wrong.
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I hope the issue is in the head. That can be replaced easy under warranty. Hope its not in the turbo or pipes, thats a mess to deal with.
Good luck, keep us updated, and throw up some pictures of any leaks you may find.
Good luck, keep us updated, and throw up some pictures of any leaks you may find.
The car was filled to the max line before the trip and when I arrived it had dropped below the min line
Thank you thats very informative, what should I do? Should I call the dealership and insist that they further inspect it?
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If they refilled the coolant than I would run it until you notice it again and take it back to the dealer.
I don't know if they will listen if you tell them about what I said or print it out and bring it to them.
That part depends on how good the dealer is.
okay sounds good, if I notice it again and take it back and they still refuse to work on it then what should I do? Would the car be seriously damaged over time?
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I had this when my 2013 was brand new: intermittent faint smell of coolant and minor coolant loss.
The dealer couldn't find an obvious leak either, so they added some UV dye to the coolant and asked me to bring it back after I smelled coolant again. I never did, but brought it back anyway and they could find anything. I also stopped seeing any coolant loss.
On a later visit the service advisor told me they have seen leaks in the little plastic line that goes from the reservoir tank to the radiator and the engine. In one case they saw it split at the T by the passenger headlight, and in the other cases the line was not seated properly in the engine side (it's a press-to-click plastic fitting).
The SA believed the tech who had done the dye job had likely also just reseated the line's connections at all three joints.
I'd follow the line and look for coolant leaks along the length of the line and where it connects to the reservoir, radiator and engine block.
Hope that helps,
Mark
The dealer couldn't find an obvious leak either, so they added some UV dye to the coolant and asked me to bring it back after I smelled coolant again. I never did, but brought it back anyway and they could find anything. I also stopped seeing any coolant loss.
On a later visit the service advisor told me they have seen leaks in the little plastic line that goes from the reservoir tank to the radiator and the engine. In one case they saw it split at the T by the passenger headlight, and in the other cases the line was not seated properly in the engine side (it's a press-to-click plastic fitting).
The SA believed the tech who had done the dye job had likely also just reseated the line's connections at all three joints.
I'd follow the line and look for coolant leaks along the length of the line and where it connects to the reservoir, radiator and engine block.
Hope that helps,
Mark
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I don't think they will refuse to work on it but unless they put full effort into doing what I described then they are not likely to find anything.
Finding the source of coolant loss is not easy, it's even worse when you can't verify it.
I would work with the dealer best you can but keep a firm foot.
The dealer can't (shouldn't) replace any parts until the issue is verified.
okay awesome Ill try that
Yeah I have a 14 and same thing, slight smell, coolant was full and about 8000 miles on the car it was toward the min line. Checked and found it was barely dripping from the plastic line on the overflow bottle. There is an I ring that will leak you can either fix it yourself or take it there and them order parts. I believe the o ring comes on the tank as an FYI. Took 4 days to fix because they didn't know what the o ring came on.
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Radiator is cracked. It cracks on the bottom. there is a felt pad between the brace and the radiator. Put you finger in there and see if it's wet. 3 cars I've seen have had cracked radiators. @Dylan_ST 2015 and @StormTrooperST
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