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2016 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS air cleaner K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc valve, resonator delet
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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2016 ST2, Absolute Black, Monster FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, ALEX' Shift Bushings,PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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They put an intake and exhaust on before a downpipe 馃槀

Tuners say FRPP is better than maybe Panda, but that's not saying much. I have no firsthand experience at this point, tho. 馃槉
 

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2016 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS air cleaner K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc valve, resonator delet
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They put an intake and exhaust on before a downpipe 馃槀

Tuners say FRPP is better than maybe Panda, but that's not saying much. I have no firsthand experience at this point, tho. 馃槉
I was particularly interested in it because my mods went similarly in order.
  1. I bought the car used with an RS air cleaner and resonator delete.
  2. Then I did the FRPP tune with included cooler plugs.
  3. Then I swapped the stock paper air filter for K&N.
  4. Then I installed a Forge FMIC.
  5. Then swapped all the stock intercooler hoses with the big hoses and charge pipe that came with the Forge kit.
  6. Must recently I swapped the stock recirculation valve for a Mountune uprated recirculation valve.
Now I'm trying to decide whether or not to do something, if anything with the exhaust. On that note: the subject of downpipes is almost a religion and some suggest swapping for a catless or high flow catted, while more people say it makes little to no difference with the stock turbo. Some suggest installing a free flowing catback, ranging from 2-1/2 to 3 inch systems, while more people say it makes negligible difference with stock turbo.

So, I'm at a crossroads now, trying to figure out really what's the biggest bang for the buck for me. I know I want to leave the FRPP tune and I'm happy with everything so far. I'm currently looking at exhaust catback because that has actually been dyno proven to add a broader power band and a tick more torque and horsepower. But... The one that appeals to me is the Ford Racing, (expensive but matches my tune). The one that seems more budget friendly is the MBRP aluminized. But again... Not sure if it would be worth the investment.

I've got a dyno test scheduled for next week to see where I'm at currently.
 

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They put an intake and exhaust on before a downpipe 馃槀

Tuners say FRPP is better than maybe Panda, but that's not saying much. I have no firsthand experience at this point, tho. 馃槉
Unless you're familiar with the platform and have done a lot of research intake and exhaust is the starting point for almost every performance mod on cars since forever, so no surprises that they would do the same. As @Hot Rod Todd mentions, if you're staying with the stock turbo, why change the downpipe? Personally, I'm probably going to swap mine with a Powermax and when I do, the downpipe will come out at the same time. I still have to buy an AP, tune and LSD first though so that'll be another year or two at least.
 

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I went with this one: MagnaFlow Ford Focus OEM Grade Federal / EPA Compliant Direct-Fit Cata
It easily made noticeable performance gains, even as one of the most 'restrictive' aftermarket downpipes. Much better airflow and turbo spool/efficiency. Down side is that it's a pain in the @$$ to get in, lol. I also purchased one for $400... They're too expensive atm.

A straight pipe would fit much more easily, but I've always used high flow cats in street legal cars, 'cause "street legal" and I'm not a big fan of letting the neighborhood know I'm home, or going to work :p Definitely opens up when stomping the go pedal though. Stock exhaust is actually really nice IMHO. The Ford Performance/Borla w/resonator would be my go to for an aftermarket. Sounds amazing!
 
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2016 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS air cleaner K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc valve, resonator delet
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unless you're familiar with the platform and have done a lot of research intake and exhaust is the starting point for almost every performance mod on cars since forever, so no surprises that they would do the same. As @Hot Rod Todd mentions, if you're staying with the stock turbo, why change the downpipe? Personally, I'm probably going to swap mine with a Powermax and when I do, the downpipe will come out at the same time. I still have to buy an AP, tune and LSD first though so that'll be another year or two at least.
Yup, I'm familiar with typical mods, I've been a gear head and working in the industry for the last 4 decades. I think what was discovered early on after the release of the ST, was that "typical" upgrades (intake/exhaust), don't make a world of difference. Not to be an ass, but it drives me nuts when the air intake tube is referred to as an "intake"... The intake is the intake manifold and is what would make the most significant differences for good or bad depending on design. The piping from the air cleaner to the turbo is just inlet ductwork and likely has plenty of volume and flow for stock turbo.
 

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2016 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS air cleaner K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc valve, resonator delet
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went with this one: MagnaFlow Ford Focus OEM Grade Federal / EPA Compliant Direct-Fit Cata
It easily made noticeable performance gains, even as one of the most 'restrictive' aftermarket downpipes. Much better airflow and turbo spool/efficiency. Down side is that it's a pain in the @$$ to get in, lol. I also purchased one for $400... They're too expensive atm.

A straight pipe would fit much more easily, but I've always used high flow cats in street legal cars, 'cause "street legal" and I'm not a big fan of letting the neighborhood know I'm home, or going to work :p Definitely opens up when stomping the go pedal though. Stock exhaust is actually really nice IMHO. The Ford Performance/Borla w/resonator would be my go to for an aftermarket. Sounds amazing!
I like the idea of the magnaflow downpipe, but it's friggin $900 and not sure the small gain would be worth the cost, (unless the stock cat failed or was worn out). The Borla catback is cool, but sounds kind of crappy in videos, Vs the Ford Racing which I think is made by Borla but sounds much deeper and mitigates the 4 banger sound.
 

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Yup, I'm familiar with typical mods, I've been a gear head and working in the industry for the last 4 decades. I think what was discovered early on after the release of the ST, was that "typical" upgrades (intake/exhaust), don't make a world of difference. Not to be an ass, but it drives me nuts when the air intake tube is referred to as an "intake"... The intake is the intake manifold and is what would make the most significant differences for good or bad depending on design. The piping from the air cleaner to the turbo is just inlet ductwork and likely has plenty of volume and flow for stock turbo.
I was referring to @MtnMan s post more than anything you said, and I wasn't implying you didn't know what you're doing. I have no doubt your experience vastly outweighs mine regarding performance cars. FWIW, the stock intake manifold on this car is pretty damn good AFAIK, even the performance versions like Mountune's don't alter the design a whole lot.
Even the article you posted mentions that the restriction was the filter, and the tube was a minor contributor. Still, incremental upgrades add up. My car came with the Cobb intake tube and filter, and it seems to work well.
 

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I like the idea of the magnaflow downpipe, but it's friggin $900 and not sure the small gain would be worth the cost, (unless the stock cat failed or was worn out). The Borla catback is cool, but sounds kind of crappy in videos, Vs the Ford Racing which I think is made by Borla but sounds much deeper and mitigates the 4 banger sound.
Yeah, I'm not sure why the cost doubled in the last 3 years since I bought one, but it's definitely a nice piece for the 'original price point', lol.

Also, like Coolpool said, the FP exhaust IS the Borla/made by Borla and just has an additional resonator. Sounds leagues better.
 

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The aforementioned article approached this platform with traditional tuning strategies. The EcoBoost engine is not traditional by any means.

Speed Density systems, like ours require a different approach.

1. Intercooler is first and foremost. The factory unit is absolute garbage and will heat soak under normal driving conditions.

2. Downpipe is the next bottle neck. Stop thinking in terms of bolt on HP and more about efficiency. The factory catalytic converter is extremely restrictive and increases the drive pressures on the tiny K03. The factory muffler flows well especially if you replace the resonator with a higher flowing unit.

3. A sealed airbox. These Speed Density systems are very sensitive to incoming air charge. The higher the incoming charge temps the harder the intercooler needs to work. You need to run more boost to make up for the lower air charge density. WGDC go up and so does heat. If you start with hot air, it only gets hotter. Stop leaving HP on the table by sucking in under hood air.

4. Quality fuel. Pretty self explanatory.

5. General maintenance. SN+ oil, properly gapped plugs, good battery, etc.

After that sky's the limit. If you're going BT then upgrading the rest of your stuff in preparation for makes sense.

Chip tunes or OTF tunes are not the best option as no two vehicles are identical. Customized tuning for your specific parameters are the safest option.

Regardless if you ever tune or stay factory the above 5 items will keep you running and happy.

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was referring to @MtnMan s post more than anything you said, and I wasn't implying you didn't know what you're doing. I have no doubt your experience vastly outweighs mine regarding performance cars. FWIW, the stock intake manifold on this car is pretty damn good AFAIK, even the performance versions like Mountune's don't alter the design a whole lot.
Even the article you posted mentions that the restriction was the filter, and the tube was a minor contributor. Still, incremental upgrades add up. My car came with the Cobb intake tube and filter, and it seems to work well.
Oh no problem at all! No offense or anything like that. I'm learning a ton from everyone in the forum who's been super nice. The Focus ST is the "newest" performance car I've owned, so it's all very interesting. I've made my mods one at a time and noticed incremental differences as I go. The exhaust is the one that I'm stuck on and it's usually the simplest. I know I'm not alone on that based on the number of threads and parts offered for the exhaust. The irony is I work for an OEM on the design side and I'm sure much of the marginal pitfalls of whatever's on the car and hindering performance were likely the result of cost per unit, tolerances on clearance or noise vibration harshness. For example, the stock charge pipe under the engine is likely carryover and utilized on other applications reducing the production cost. The smallish exhaust pipe over the axle is likely because they had minimum clearances they had to maintain. The crappy intercooler was definitely cost savings. The catalytic converter design is likely because of "packaging", (which is a fancy term for getting 10 lbs of $4it in a 5 pound can). The rear engine mount likely for NVH (noise vibration harshness).

I really really like the design of the magnaflow downpipe and the outlet size is probably plenty for the stock turbo, (or a mild upgrade like the Garrett). The catback... Hmmmm that Ford Racing is just right, except darned expensive. If they made it aluminized for less it would be much more bearable. I don't really need an exhaust system that will last 20 years longer than the rest of the car lol. The aluminized MBRP seems like a good alternative, but I don't really want it clanking around over the rear axle, at 3" it would be hard for it not to I would think.
 

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A big increase, that I have not spent enough time and/or money on, is getting power to the ground. I used to always laugh with my Subie buddies about Fail Wheel Drive (always said it was for people whom didn't know how to drive ROFL). Less drivetrain loss is a MAJOR advantage. That, and after stepping up with some professional drivers (and getting righteously spanked is several areas) I realized that I need to add some 'grace' to my driving style. You'll find the tire's friction limit around a turn MUCH faster with FWD for the obvious reasons of turning G's and driveline output to the same wheels leading the turn-ins. Thus, one must become much more aware of 'the limit' and drive accordingly. This would go into that new thread of 'what do you love about your ST' for me. It makes me a better driver. However, a LSD is pretty necessary. It really sucks not having one, lol.

Next best thing, for me, was the TB Performance Torque Gusset Brace. That part is AMAZING!
 

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Next best thing, for me, was the TB Performance Torque Gusset Brace. That part is AMAZING!
Yeah, that one mod made the car a lot more pleasant to drive hard. No more darting to the side of the road or into oncoming traffic when you stomp on it... it just goes straight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A big increase, that I have not spent enough time and/or money on, is getting power to the ground. I used to always laugh with my Subie buddies about Fail Wheel Drive (always said it was for people whom didn't know how to drive ROFL). Less drivetrain loss is a MAJOR advantage. That, and after stepping up with some professional drivers (and getting righteously spanked is several areas) I realized that I need to add some 'grace' to my driving style. You'll find the tire's friction limit around a turn MUCH faster with FWD for the obvious reasons of turning G's and driveline output to the same wheels leading the turn-ins. Thus, one must become much more aware of 'the limit' and drive accordingly. This would go into that new thread of 'what do you love about your ST' for me. It makes me a better driver. However, a LSD is pretty necessary. It really sucks not having one, lol.

Next best thing, for me, was the TB Performance Torque Gusset Brace. That part is AMAZING!
100% agree on getting the power to the pavement. One thing I noticed on mine, (thanks to this forum), is the Sport Mode. It's the most illogical button in the car, as it's for traction control so you'd think you'd get better launch control with it on but turning it off and putting it into Sport Mode virtually eliminates torque steer, allows for more controlled wheel spin, albeit at the cost of losing that super tight steering around corners. It's actually a little sloppy around turns in Sport Mode, but if it's dry outside my car is always set on Sport Mode. I too want an LSD but don't know how big of a pain it would be to install. I also want to get the rear motor mount as a bare minimum.

I'm also interested in some Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires... My nephew has them on his Mustang and they stick like glue.
 

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@Hot Rod Todd , the RMM is 2 bolts... Easy access and no additional supports needed. Do eeet Naaooww!

I bought a combo deal from COBB for RMM and air filter... Gave away the filter locally. win win /ish
 

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100% agree on getting the power to the pavement. One thing I noticed on mine, (thanks to this forum), is the Sport Mode. It's the most illogical button in the car, as it's for traction control so you'd think you'd get better launch control with it on but turning it off and putting it into Sport Mode virtually eliminates torque steer, allows for more controlled wheel spin, albeit at the cost of losing that super tight steering around corners. It's actually a little sloppy around turns in Sport Mode, but if it's dry outside my car is always set on Sport Mode. I too want an LSD but don't know how big of a pain it would be to install. I also want to get the rear motor mount as a bare minimum.

I'm also interested in some Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires... My nephew has them on his Mustang and they stick like glue.
mFactory LSD Install into 2016 Focus ST This is my plan and I suspect well within your abilities, if you have the garage space and time.
Also, I can't recommend the CPe Stage 2 RMM highly enough. Install was easy and the difference is massive from stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
mFactory LSD Install into 2016 Focus ST This is my plan and I suspect well within your abilities, if you have the garage space and time.
Also, I can't recommend the CPe Stage 2 RMM highly enough. Install was easy and the difference is massive from stock.
Thanks for the info on the LSD! Question though: My 2016 ST had what appears to be the stock rear engine mount, but I've not experienced any wheel hop or any issues with shifting, etc. I'm hesitant to spend roughly $200 for it if I don't need it and it seems that NVH is hit or miss with them. I wonder if the cheap ones from Amazon like PTNHZ are any good.
 

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NVH will increase with any aftermarket RMM and the wheel hop is especially apparent on hard launches. Having said that, the RMMs will settle down after they break in. I have nearly 1000 mi on mine now and the only time it really makes itself felt is at idle with the AC on. You may have the E Focus RMM which is stiffer than the stock mounts. Personally, things like brakes, tires and holding the engine in place under spirited driving isn't where I want to save a buck. I have no experience with that RMM so I can't honestly say to be fair, though. If you aren't having issues with wheel hop maybe hold off and see how it goes after the tune and other mods.
 
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