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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

Today was the second time I've been on the highway and my car completely dies... and when I say "dies," I mean the car becomes completely unresponsive in every way possible. The issue only occurs for 1/2 of a second, and has only happened twice, once about 1-2 months ago, and once today.

I'm driving down the highway at normal cruising speed with very little throttle and BAM!!! My engine cuts off, all lights turn off, my Accessport turns off... everything electrical flashes and turns off, and I loose all functionality of the car. It's as if War of the Worlds is happening outside.

As I stated the incident only lasts 1/2 a second and everything turns right back on as if nothing ever happened. I'm currently custom tuned by Ryan @ PD tuning, but don't have any other electrical modifications to the car. I've seen other threads where the ECM dies and people have to toe their cars to the dealership, only to not have the opportunity to flash back to the factory map. The dealer then finds out the car has a tune and voids the warranty.

Has anyone ever seen anything like this?

--Bradley--
 

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Ive had it happen on a completely different car, just once, Eclipse 4G63, i never figured out why or how and continued to drive it for 2 years after without any problems.

The only thing i can suggest if your worried about the dealership giving you a hard time, just bite the bullet and reflash to stock and bring it to the dealer before the situation you described above happens.
 

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Go in and check all electrical connections and clean the paint off the grounds. If it's losing all power and shutting off it has to be a main connection somewhere or your PCM or BCM is shutting down. If thats the case go back to stock and take it to the dealer. Those modules are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I also have an intercooler, RMM, & drop in filter. Should I remove any of those parts too? I understand the "Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" but I just want to make sure I cover my ass. Obviously an electrical failure is not directly related to, say, the intercooler... but I don't want the dealership coming at me with some bull**** about aftermarket parts trying to void my warranty.

Let me know how you think.
 

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Thanks for the replies.

I also have an intercooler, RMM, & drop in filter. Should I remove any of those parts too? I understand the "Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" but I just want to make sure I cover my ass. Obviously an electrical failure is not directly related to, say, the intercooler... but I don't want the dealership coming at me with some bull**** about aftermarket parts trying to void my warranty.

Let me know how you think.
Yeah man go completely back to stock. We had a guy lose a PCM and it was $1700 bucks to repair. (car was out of warranty)
 

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Thanks for the replies.

I also have an intercooler, RMM, & drop in filter. Should I remove any of those parts too? I understand the "Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" but I just want to make sure I cover my ass. Obviously an electrical failure is not directly related to, say, the intercooler... but I don't want the dealership coming at me with some bull**** about aftermarket parts trying to void my warranty.

Let me know how you think.
My thoughts are go in with the best effort possible. If you are completely stock and act kind of ignorant that may go a long ways.
 

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I recall someone having a similar problem several years ago and it turned out to be a loose ground under the carpet around the dead pedal area.
 
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I've experienced this exact same thing. Cruising at 60mph, all electronics go dead. Hit start button and the electrical system popped back to life. I assume the ignition system was also affected, but since I was rolling along in gear, the engine just picked up where it last left off. It was kinda spooky, but it hasn't come back in 6,000 miles or so. My car has 67,000 on the ODO, if you're curious. Still on the factory tune, so I doubt your reflash is the root cause of the issue.
 

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Where exactly do I find the ground you are referring to?
If I remember correctly, pull the carpet and underlayment away from the floor under the clutch/dead pedal area (where your left foot rests).
 
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I've had a similar issue when I first got mine. The ground under the air box wasn't making a strong connection. That ground goes to the PCM. 300mi and the whole car would shut off. The tech at the dealer said when the vehicle was manufactured they connected the ground to a painted surface. He had to relocate and buff off paint to make it connect. Since then never had an issue.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dealership says they can't find anything wrong (of course, what's new). I spoke with my adviser and asked "what if you guys were able to recreate the problem, then what would you do." He pretty much told me they wouldn't be able to do anything at all because the issue is happening for such short periods of time. Ford is such a joke.
 

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I've had this happen to me twice. Both times in the relatively same area (traveling up a ramp to the GSP) and in the same conditions (90+F weather, AC on, crawling in traffic) and both lasted for a split second. I hear my AC flicker, the door locks flicker, and the radio shut down before everything just returns to normal and acts like nothing ever happened.

I'm not sure what causes it and I've never taken it to a dealer since I'm long out of warranty. Just wanted to let you know that you're not alone.
 

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Dealership says they can't find anything wrong (of course, what's new). I spoke with my adviser and asked "what if you guys were able to recreate the problem, then what would you do." He pretty much told me they wouldn't be able to do anything at all because the issue is happening for such short periods of time. Ford is such a joke.
Yeah thats disappointing. I try to remain a calm and understanding person, but I probably would of lost my **** on that poor representative. He definitely gave the wrong answer.

What I think he means is it will be incredibly difficult to diagnose because of short time span it occurs. Because difficult to diagnose Ford will be difficult to get to warrant the work. Therefore no work is even attempted. It is incredibly frustrating that here we have something potentially dangerous that ford should be eager to look into, but nope.

Solution would be if Ford had a system to request support straight from them. Any other product I ever had warranty on I dealt with the manufacturer directly. Going through a middleman (dealer) who has no interest in pursuing any significant efforts is a broken f***ing system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm glad to hear i'm not the only one... I've taken some of the suggestions here, but can't find anything loose / wrong. I agree that going through a dealership is bogus, especially if it's not the dealer you bought the car from. The other part that bothers me is the fact that the techs just go out on joy rides in your car to "diagnose" the issue. I don't trust anyone driving my car around... especially someone at one of the dealerships.
 

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I'd remove the paint at the ground points mentioned earlier. Then reconnect the grounds using electrically​ conductive paste on the bare metal. You won't know if it's fixed unless is stops happening, so it's worth trying the easy and most probable fix first.
 
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