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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so the O2 sensors finally changed to ready status and now the code P2096 has been thrown which says the post catalyst oxygen sensor is too lean. I installed the vibrant O2 defouler and used the middle of the 3 inserts provided with the piece, which is what I read should be used or at least people said the middle insert (assuming then that there is a large, medium and small insert). Should I install the large insert then or what?
 

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Okay so the O2 sensors finally changed to ready status and now the code P2096 has been thrown which says the post catalyst oxygen sensor is too lean. I installed the vibrant O2 defouler and used the middle of the 3 inserts provided with the piece, which is what I read should be used or at least people said the middle insert (assuming then that there is a large, medium and small insert). Should I install the large insert then or what?
It takes a while for the code to clear, like 20-50 miles I believe. I've also seen people run the SMALLEST insert, never the largest one. Ultimately you could try both and see which works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it throws the code and eventually should just go away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyone got anything? It didn't go away by itself (didn't expect it to) and I need help figuring out why it is doing this and soon. If you have anything please help!!
 

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Did you clear the fault with some kind of scanner or the access port? Did the cel turn off? If so did the monitors ready and then another fault returned after a drive or two? What's the scenario? Exactly.
 

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I'm assuming there is another thread you've asked questions in because your first intro comment leads off as a continuance to another conversation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm assuming there is another thread you've asked questions in because your first intro comment leads off as a continuance to another conversation.
I purposely started a new thread as the last one had to do with smoke out the exhaust. This one has to do with a fault code, it is not a continuation.

So basically it readied up, threw the code, I tried just clearing the code and it came back within 5 miles.

Earlier today I decided to flash to the non exhaust crackle tune to see if maybe the crackle tune was the problem, didn't help as the car started up and idled at 16.5 AFR, so reflashed as that was so much different from prior tunes I didn't want to risk anything. Not sure what caused that though. Is there anyway to see the voltage of the rear O2 sensor without having to somehow probe the wires? I am curious to see if it is barely off and that is why, or if it is significantly off.
 

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Im chasing this same fault with my 100 cell cat from depo, I have smallest insert in the vibrant j defouler and it's setting fault much less then with the middle or large one so seems like right direction, I have a straight defouler with inserts I'm thinking about stacking them since luckily we have the room, I'll let you know what happens and maybe someone else can chime in I'm surprised I can't find more info on this issue...
 

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Ok so code came back, I'm a diesel tech. by trade and the fix to this issue is eluding me and driving me absolutely crazy, i have found that no matter what defouler set up I use as soon as the o2 ready for i/m monitors the lean code sets so my next step is to see if Justin from Freektune can turn the p0420 off and I'll have to try on stock tune and possibly stock DP for emissions wich I was trying to avoid, the only reason I didn't go catless, or do i try an o2 sensor? cause i feel like people have gotten this figured out on same or similar setup...any input would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ok so code came back, I'm a diesel tech. by trade and the fix to this issue is eluding me and driving me absolutely crazy, i have found that no matter what defouler set up I use as soon as the o2 ready for i/m monitors the lean code sets so my next step is to see if Justin from Freektune can turn the p0420 off and I'll have to try on stock tune and possibly stock DP for emissions wich I was trying to avoid, the only reason I didn't go catless, or do i try an o2 sensor? cause i feel like people have gotten this figured out on same or similar setup...any input would be appreciated
I am just as confused as you are, I have been designing racecars for a few years now and have never had to deal with emissions or narrowband sensors before. I have no idea why it reads lean when most people say you need to use the middle or even small insert in some cases to prevent it from reading rich.

As for the tune thing, I had stratified turn it on for me so I could do inspection and it wouldn't throw codes but the sensors would read ready still. Now I have no idea what could be going wrong.

EDIT: With the my experience with widebands, generally this can mean a bad sensor but I don't have the money to throw at this to change parts out to solve the issue, if you are willing to buy a secondary O2 sensor to test, go for it. I can't see any other reason for us having issues.
 

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I am just as confused as you are, I have been designing racecars for a few years now and have never had to deal with emissions or narrowband sensors before. I have no idea why it reads lean when most people say you need to use the middle or even small insert in some cases to prevent it from reading rich.

As for the tune thing, I had stratified turn it on for me so I could do inspection and it wouldn't throw codes but the sensors would read ready still. Now I have no idea what could be going wrong.

EDIT: With the my experience with widebands, generally this can mean a bad sensor but I don't have the money to throw at this to change parts out to solve the issue, if you are willing to buy a secondary O2 sensor to test, go for it. I can't see any other reason for us having issues.
Two things going on here to get you to pass inspection:

First is the defouler so that a code is not generated.

Second however is getting all the readiness monitors set so you can pass the OBDII check. Once you sort out the defouler issue, you'll need to complete the Ford Drive Cycle: Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Two things going on here to get you to pass inspection:

First is the defouler so that a code is not generated.

Second however is getting all the readiness monitors set so you can pass the OBDII check. Once you sort out the defouler issue, you'll need to complete the Ford Drive Cycle: Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

Hope that helps,
Mark
...You should have seen from the prior conversations that I have an O2 defouler but it throws codes anyways and I am using the same insert as most people have used with success. For the drive cycle, just to make sure I am reading properly, I would do steps 1-4 then go to step 7 to do the cat monitor? Would I be able to not do step 1 and then do 2-4 and then to 7? Or would I have to do every step in order (at least the ones for a manual trans)?
 

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...You should have seen from the prior conversations that I have an O2 defouler but it throws codes anyways and I am using the same insert as most people have used with success. For the drive cycle, just to make sure I am reading properly, I would do steps 1-4 then go to step 7 to do the cat monitor? Would I be able to not do step 1 and then do 2-4 and then to 7? Or would I have to do every step in order (at least the ones for a manual trans)?
Yes, I saw that you were having problems with your defouler. I just didn't want you to think that once you solved that issue you were good to go get inspected. Apologies if you knew that already.

As re drive cycle test steps order... I'm not understanding why you are asking about skipping steps for monitors that need to be set to pass inspection. Doing the steps in order to my knowledge is the quickest way to get all the monitors set to Ready (and I've never tried doing them out of order). If you've already done an IM Readiness Check on your AccessPort, then sure, try just doing the steps to reset the monitors that aren't already set.

BTW, if you do a KAM reset, you'll need to do the drive cycle to get all the monitors set to Ready.

Others have more experience with defoulers than I do. So I'll leave it to others to help you sort out your defouler issue. Once you no longer get a code, then you can complete the drive cycle and go get inspected.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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13.28 at idle is a little lean. - is rich and + is lean. I think you might have a leak somewhere. Depends on your tune if you have one. If stock that's lean.
 
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