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Hey my 2016 Focus ST3, clutch started slipping at 59K miles and completely s*** the bed. Think it was a leaking slave but can't tell for sure.

Anyway I already bought a new upgraded clucth and flywheel, now i need a new slave cylinder. I don't see anything other than OEM online, but to me it looks plastic and cheap and probably is the issue. Does anyone have a recommended slave or am I stuck buying a factory one?
 

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This is the one I decided to go with, only non plastic looking one I could find, maybe it can help somebody out in the future.

 

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2014 TB ST3 with 94,1XX miles. Yesterday, the stock clutch started to feel stickier when releasing the pedal. It doesn’t stay on the ground, but releases noticeably slower than before. More vibration is now felt on the clutch pedal during the friction point. Other than that, the car shifts fine and stays in gear. Stock transmission fluid was drained and replaced at 80,000 miles
 

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2014 TB ST3 with 94,1XX miles. Yesterday, the stock clutch started to feel stickier when releasing the pedal. It doesn’t stay on the ground, but releases noticeably slower than before. More vibration is now felt on the clutch pedal during the friction point. Other than that, the car shifts fine and stays in gear. Stock transmission fluid was drained and replaced at 80,000 miles
Bleed your clutch line (tied into brake fluid)

See if that will help your issue before replacing anything, you may have air building up in the line. I bled my clutch last year and it was black, felt much better after doing so.
 

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If you guys are having weird stutter issues when releasing the clutch when moving from a stop, check your engine mounts. My passenger side engine mount blew and sending stutters to the cabin when I release the clutch on 1st gear.
 

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Bleed your clutch line (tied into brake fluid)

See if that will help your issue before replacing anything, you may have air building up in the line. I bled my clutch last year and it was black, felt much better after doing so.
A few days later, my clutch got stuck to the floor. I bled the clutch and sure enough, there was a lot of air bubbles. Car ran fine until the next morning. After jacking up the car, I was able to see that brake fluid is leaking into the transmission. I’m going to look into replacing the clutch and slave cylinder.
 

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If you've had a clutch failure, please post mileage and symptoms - if possible the culprit as well. Not trying to scare anybody - the vast majority are fine - but if you're about to buy a new ST you might add it to the list of things to check, and if you have a strong clutch smell from normal driving, you should probably take it in.

Mine (IS ST2) was ~60mi, the day I got it. Clutch started slipping, slipping more, then failed completely. Dealer thought it was the slave cylinder, but wasn't totally sure.

6speed (PB ST2) - 1,100 mi; clutch wouldn't release from a stop light
Hoser (PB ST1) - Fixed pre-delivery!
RallyST (PB ST1) - 8,000 mi; Clutch slipping at bottom of each gear.
hamholla (TB ST2) - 6,500 miles. Pedal was glued to the floor, messed with it and got it to return to the full rest position. Pedal only had about half the range it used to. Car wouldn't hold any significant amount of torque. (NOT COVERED -$1,920)
DizzyST (IS ST2) - 2,000 miles. It started to slip about about 100 miles before it died. Clutch smell was horrible during that 100 mile stint.
Pinky - 3 days old. 400km. stopped at a red light and clutch glued itself to the floor. dealership says master and slave cylinder both pooched.
Alpo - 300 mi; after depressing the pedal the clutch pedal five or six times, it would not return from the floor.
Lets-go (RR ST3) - 2,000 miles. Clutch pedal suddenly stuck to floor, fluid dripping from bell housing. Full clutch assembly replacement.
...and several more; haven't been keeping track. Long story short, if you drive normally, haven't been riding the clutch or anything and it stinks to high heaven, just take it in.
my cl
If you've had a clutch failure, please post mileage and symptoms - if possible the culprit as well. Not trying to scare anybody - the vast majority are fine - but if you're about to buy a new ST you might add it to the list of things to check, and if you have a strong clutch smell from normal driving, you should probably take it in.

Mine (IS ST2) was ~60mi, the day I got it. Clutch started slipping, slipping more, then failed completely. Dealer thought it was the slave cylinder, but wasn't totally sure.

6speed (PB ST2) - 1,100 mi; clutch wouldn't release from a stop light
Hoser (PB ST1) - Fixed pre-delivery!
RallyST (PB ST1) - 8,000 mi; Clutch slipping at bottom of each gear.
hamholla (TB ST2) - 6,500 miles. Pedal was glued to the floor, messed with it and got it to return to the full rest position. Pedal only had about half the range it used to. Car wouldn't hold any significant amount of torque. (NOT COVERED -$1,920)
DizzyST (IS ST2) - 2,000 miles. It started to slip about about 100 miles before it died. Clutch smell was horrible during that 100 mile stint.
Pinky - 3 days old. 400km. stopped at a red light and clutch glued itself to the floor. dealership says master and slave cylinder both pooched.
Alpo - 300 mi; after depressing the pedal the clutch pedal five or six times, it would not return from the floor.
Lets-go (RR ST3) - 2,000 miles. Clutch pedal suddenly stuck to floor, fluid dripping from bell housing. Full clutch assembly replacement.
...and several more; haven't been keeping track. Long story short, if you drive normally, haven't been riding the clutch or anything and it stinks to high heaven, just take it in.
Had my clutch replaced in july, its been broken in for awhile now. tried the 1st to 4th trick and it bogges out " which is suppossed to mean the clutch is good still " but i cant feel the engagement point and it is almost hesitant to take off! please help me!!
 

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my cl

Had my clutch replaced in july, its been broken in for awhile now. tried the 1st to 4th trick and it bogges out " which is suppossed to mean the clutch is good still " but i cant feel the engagement point and it is almost hesitant to take off! please help me!!
Cheack your rear motor mount might be broken or need replacement
 

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my cl

Had my clutch replaced in july, its been broken in for awhile now. tried the 1st to 4th trick and it bogges out " which is suppossed to mean the clutch is good still " but i cant feel the engagement point and it is almost hesitant to take off! please help me!!
I would recomend cpe stage 2 I have cobb its good but at times I feel its not stiff enough but for bone stock its good enough
 

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Is my transmission failing??

My gear changes have become progressively more difficult recently, to the point where I will be down or up shifting to a new gear and it literally won’t let me put it in that gear. So I have to pull it in and out a couple times before it will let me.

I was racing from a light last week and went from 1st to 2nd quickly, dropped the clutch as I was shifting into 2nd and the resistance caused me to grind 2nd so hard because I couldn’t get the shifter in all the way. I immediately put the clutch in but the plate stayed engaged for another couple seconds before it disengaged. This has happened before but usually from 2nd to 3rd and it’s happening more and more over the past year.

Now the gear changes are even worse. They are loud, clunky and gritty, often requiring a lot of force to get it into a new gear.

I have a 2015 ST w/ 53k miles that I’ve owned since new. I take really good care of my car and don’t abuse it. I changed the tranny oil to Motul DCTF a few months ago, installed a Mountune RMM, installed a Cobb short shift plate 2-weeks ago and performed a cable reset after the install.

The shift plate has definitely emphasized the shifting issues but I was noticing it before the install too.


Any thoughts on what it could be or what I should do? I’m guessing any significant problems will be covered under the 100k mile powertrain warranty but I don’t know what the problem is.

Anyone run into similar issues and got it fixed by Ford??


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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Is my transmission failing??

My gear changes have become progressively more difficult recently, to the point where I will be down or up shifting to a new gear and it literally won’t let me put it in that gear. So I have to pull it in and out a couple times before it will let me.

I was racing from a light last week and went from 1st to 2nd quickly, dropped the clutch as I was shifting into 2nd and the resistance caused me to grind 2nd so hard because I couldn’t get the shifter in all the way. I immediately put the clutch in but the plate stayed engaged for another couple seconds before it disengaged. This has happened before but usually from 2nd to 3rd and it’s happening more and more over the past year.

Now the gear changes are even worse. They are loud, clunky and gritty, often requiring a lot of force to get it into a new gear.

I have a 2015 ST w/ 53k miles that I’ve owned since new. I take really good care of my car and don’t abuse it. I changed the tranny oil to Motul DCTF a few months ago, installed a Mountune RMM, installed a Cobb short shift plate 2-weeks ago and performed a cable reset after the install.

The shift plate has definitely emphasized the shifting issues but I was noticing it before the install too.


Any thoughts on what it could be or what I should do? I’m guessing any significant problems will be covered under the 100k mile powertrain warranty but I don’t know what the problem is.

Anyone run into similar issues and got it fixed by Ford??


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
Sounds to me as if there has been a problem getting progressively worse for a while now and adding the Cobb plate made it more noticeable due to the fact that it takes more effort with the "shorter" cable mount location. There were some problems early on with some transmissions and Ford seemed to take care of them; Ford does not fix them though, if warrantied, they replace them. I would take off the shift plate prior to taking it in for inspection as they definitely will blame the failure on the aftermarket part.
 

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Sounds to me as if there has been a problem getting progressively worse for a while now and adding the Cobb plate made it more noticeable due to the fact that it takes more effort with the "shorter" cable mount location. There were some problems early on with some transmissions and Ford seemed to take care of them; Ford does not fix them though, if warrantied, they replace them. I would take off the shift plate prior to taking it in for inspection as they definitely will blame the failure on the aftermarket part.
I just did some maths and realized I’m under the milage limit but over the 5-year warranty by a couple of months. I bought my car in November of 2015 so I’m screwed. I could have sworn it was 6-years, 100k mi on the powertrain. That blows.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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I just did some maths and realized I’m under the milage limit but over the 5-year warranty by a couple of months. I bought my car in November of 2015 so I’m screwed. I could have sworn it was 6-years, 100k mi on the powertrain. That blows.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
Probably time to 1) find a good used transmission or 2) send some bullets to @Duece McCracken for some rebuild guidance.
 
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Probably time to 1) find a good used transmission or 2) send some bullets to @Duece McCracken for some rebuild guidance.
My first step is to get rid of this junky Cobb shift plate. That just seemed to exasperate the problems. I have a JBR weighted plate coming today and some solid shift bushings. I’m going to throw those on there with another cable reset and pray that fixes the problem. Doubt it will but it should help.

If not, I will need that rebuild help for sure.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 

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My first step is to get rid of this junky Cobb shift plate. That just seemed to exasperate the problems. I have a JBR weighted plate coming today and some solid shift bushings. I’m going to throw those on there with another cable reset and pray that fixes the problem. Doubt it will but it should help.

If not, I will need that rebuild help for sure.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
I can assure you with 99.99% accuracy, the shift plate had nothing to do with your current situation. I've been using one for 6 or 7 years with no issues what so ever, and so have thousands of others.
 

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I can assure you with 99.99% accuracy, the shift plate had nothing to do with your current situation. I've been using one for 6 or 7 years with no issues what so ever, and so have thousands of others.
It definitely exacerbated the shift problem. Since the throw is more condensed, the throw resistance became much more pronounced, leading to that nasty 2nd gear grind last week that set this whole thing off.

Did the shift plate cause the problem? No.

Did the shift plate make the issue more pronounced? Yes, most definitely and it seems to be accelerating the decline.


What do you think I’ll be looking at cost wise for a transmission rebuild? I love this car and don’t ever plan on selling it so I want to get the repairs/ upgrades done the right way so they will last a long time. This will be my project car.


A white FSwerks Tuned, Steeda Breathing, Straight Piped, Symp Deleted 2015 FoST-2 wrapped in Indy 500’s. - SD
 
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