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Well the engine was swapped out with a fresh one and so now it is running much much stronger. However, I now have a couple codes to take care of. Other than these the car is happy and runs great. I have a P051D which I think I just have to wait for a replacement filter for my Steeda air oil separator. This is to do with the pcv system and I believe the filter element is clogged by all the blow by of the old dying engine. Now I also have a P08A9 that says it’s a “clutch pedal position sensor A circuit low”. This one is also giving me a engine fault display saying to service the engine now on the lcd display between the gauges. The car now requires me to not only push in the clutch and press the button but I also have to hold the brake now too or it won’t fire up. The clutch has been bled after the swap and I’m not sure what’s going on. My AP shows only 0%, 7% and 71% on the clutch position monitor and no other numbers if I push it in slow either


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sounds like you need to bleed it out again. if you say that pushing the brakes allows it to start that tells me that you are putting enough pressure on the system to allow the clutch in engage correctly.
What method did you take when bleeding the clutch? does the clutch feel normal? if you pump it a few times and not touch the brakes will it build pressure and start?

My only guess. never run into this issue and have swapped a few engines now.

I would assume you have reset the ECU and pull the battery for a minute to reset?
 

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sounds like you need to bleed it out again. if you say that pushing the brakes allows it to start that tells me that you are putting enough pressure on the system to allow the clutch in engage correctly.
What method did you take when bleeding the clutch? does the clutch feel normal? if you pump it a few times and not touch the brakes will it build pressure and start?

My only guess. never run into this issue and have swapped a few engines now.

I would assume you have reset the ECU and pull the battery for a minute to reset?
The ability for the car to start, has nothing to do with the hydraulics actually. It's just two clutch pedal position sensors. The sensor is either damaged, improperly mounted, dislodged, unplugged, partially unplugged, or the wiring is damaged. His lack of smooth clutch pedal readings from the AP3 tells us it's definitely an electrical/sensor issue.

There seems to be quite a few of these threads popping up recently.
 

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The ability for the car to start, has nothing to do with the hydraulics actually. It's just two clutch pedal position sensors. The sensor is either damaged, improperly mounted, dislodged, unplugged, partially unplugged, or the wiring is damaged. His lack of smooth clutch pedal readings from the AP3 tells us it's definitely an electrical/sensor issue.

There seems to be quite a few of these threads popping up recently.
ah yes that would make more sense. I just found it strange that depressing the brake made it start. but 100% agree I should just be the CPPS one or the other, hopefully not both
 

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The ability for the car to start, has nothing to do with the hydraulics actually. It's just two clutch pedal position sensors. The sensor is either damaged, improperly mounted, dislodged, unplugged, partially unplugged, or the wiring is damaged. His lack of smooth clutch pedal readings from the AP3 tells us it's definitely an electrical/sensor issue.

There seems to be quite a few of these threads popping up recently.
Well I’m not sure how to go about it at this point. Would you recommend I get two new sensors? Should I try temporarily hard wiring one of the sensor connectors and see if anything changes? The car is great other that this issue. I had the pcv code before the swap but ignored it since a new filter was only gonna get clogged immediately anyway. This P08A9 is causing all the whack behavior. Are there only two sensors at the pedal? Are there any sensors or connectors on the transmission? Or on the slave or master of the throw out bearing? I have a feeling that it is missing a connector or something. The engine that was swapped in was a crate from ford as I did not have the ability to have a few months down time on this vehicle. Also which sensor is part of circuit a? Any questions about the car or what’s been done please share. Thank you!


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ah yes that would make more sense. I just found it strange that depressing the brake made it start. but 100% agree I should just be the CPPS one or the other, hopefully not both

IIRC the RS has one of the switches on the clutch master in the engine bay, moved up from the pedal assembly. I forget if this was a change for the ST at some point as well. I just keep assuming everyone has two sensors on the pedal still. We threw a RS master in my buddies 2013 ST. Pretty much an identical part, but sold separate from the pedal assembly, unlike the ST master.

So that's a possibility too, a sensor on the master, and only one on the pedal, lmao. I believe at that point it may even be a pressure switch instead of a mechanical switch. In which case bleeding would be necessary for function. Which brings this post all the way back round, rofl!
 

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Well I’m not sure how to go about it at this point. Would you recommend I get two new sensors? Should I try temporarily hard wiring one of the sensor connectors and see if anything changes? The car is great other that this issue. I had the pcv code before the swap but ignored it since a new filter was only gonna get clogged immediately anyway. This P08A9 is causing all the whack behavior. Are there only two sensors at the pedal? Are there any sensors or connectors on the transmission? Or on the slave or master of the throw out bearing? I have a feeling that it is missing a connector or something. The engine that was swapped in was a crate from ford as I did not have the ability to have a few months down time on this vehicle. Also which sensor is part of circuit a? Any questions about the car or what’s been done please share. Thank you!


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What year is your ST?


For a 2013/2014 There are no sensors on the trans, or slave, or in the hydraulic lines. There should be two sensors on the pedal, one at the firewall, and one towards your shins. I believe the one at the firewall is the one for the starting circuit, but in this case you should just replace them both.

For 2015 and later, they have a different model number for the pedal assembly. Pics on tasca are not that great, I'm not sure if they take after the RS master and have the other sensor on the master in the engine bay. I just did a quick scour, and didn't get any definitive pics.

Maybe a member on here can try and get a pic, or confirm. I really need to start remembering all this crap, and write it down. Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What year is your ST?


For a 2013/2014 There are no sensors on the trans, or slave, or in the hydraulic lines. There should be two sensors on the pedal, one at the firewall, and one towards your shins. I believe the one at the firewall is the one for the starting circuit, but in this case you should just replace them both.

For 2015 and later, they have a different model number for the pedal assembly. Pics on tasca are not that great, I'm not sure if they take after the RS master and have the other sensor on the master in the engine bay. I just did a quick scour, and didn't get any definitive pics.

Maybe a member on here can try and get a pic, or confirm. I really need to start remembering all this crap, and write it down. Lmao
Mine is a 2018 so it pretty much has all the revisions they made I assume. I do have a sensor on the brake master cylinder but I think that’s for fluid level. I only say this because they share the same fluid. I can post pictures of what it looks like. It’s built into the reservoir. I’ll have to get under the dash with a light and see what I can find on the clutch pedal assembly


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IIRC the RS has one of the switches on the clutch master in the engine bay, moved up from the pedal assembly. I forget if this was a change for the ST at some point as well. I just keep assuming everyone has two sensors on the pedal still. We threw a RS master in my buddies 2013 ST. Pretty much an identical part, but sold separate from the pedal assembly, unlike the ST master.

So that's a possibility too, a sensor on the master, and only one on the pedal, lmao. I believe at that point it may even be a pressure switch instead of a mechanical switch. In which case bleeding would be necessary for function. Which brings this post all the way back round, rofl!
The clutch has been bled once already. I will try another session of bleeding it and we will se how that works. Everything was fine before the swap so maybe it’s still got air in the lines somewhere


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Is there not a clutch position sensor up under the dash at the pedal, which I would think may be the issue as it seems to do with something down near your pedals causing this as Nick said when you pressed your brake it caused you to be able to start. Which also could just be like a safety override, but also @Duece McCracken couldn't it still be pressure related as Nick mentioned but also dealing with the position sensor. If the clutch position sensor reads it at a certain point when push the pedal in but if it doesn't have enough pressure to reach that engagement area then the sensor isn't recognizing it, then with the extra pressure put on the system by him pressing the brake pedal gives the clutch enough pressure to engage and enough movement for the clutch sensor to recognize it? Am I thinking about this all wrong or possibility? Just raking the coals in my mind...I'd lean to bet that theres a loose connection somewhere. Also the filter your saying is clogged on your oil separator, if its that clogged its sending a code you wanna be careful on a new engine because if your breather line isn't allowing free flow you could buiild alot of crankcase pressure. No good.
 

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Is there not a clutch position sensor up under the dash at the pedal, which I would think may be the issue as it seems to do with something down near your pedals causing this as Nick said when you pressed your brake it caused you to be able to start. Which also could just be like a safety override, but also @Duece McCracken couldn't it still be pressure related as Nick mentioned but also dealing with the position sensor. If the clutch position sensor reads it at a certain point when push the pedal in but if it doesn't have enough pressure to reach that engagement area then the sensor isn't recognizing it, then with the extra pressure put on the system by him pressing the brake pedal gives the clutch enough pressure to engage and enough movement for the clutch sensor to recognize it? Am I thinking about this all wrong or possibility? Just raking the coals in my mind...I'd lean to bet that theres a loose connection somewhere. Also the filter your saying is clogged on your oil separator, if its that clogged its sending a code you wanna be careful on a new engine because if your breather line isn't allowing free flow you could buiild alot of crankcase pressure. No good.
Well the filter has been removed and the car smoked for a bit upon startup. I am waiting on the replacement to show up in the mail. Until then it's just gonna have to eat the valve cover blow by then. There must have been a build up but it only smoked for a bit then went away. Self cleaning I hope, Nothing is overfilled anyway. I think pressing the brake could be just a safety measure override but I don't know for sure. I feel like there is a loose connection too but haven't had to time to go digging very deep yet. I'm gonna see if I can take some time soon to go through the engine bay and double check all the connectors.
 

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Well the filter has been removed and the car smoked for a bit upon startup. I am waiting on the replacement to show up in the mail. Until then it's just gonna have to eat the valve cover blow by then. There must have been a build up but it only smoked for a bit then went away. Self cleaning I hope, Nothing is overfilled anyway. I think pressing the brake could be just a safety measure override but I don't know for sure. I feel like there is a loose connection too but haven't had to time to go digging very deep yet. I'm gonna see if I can take some time soon to go through the engine bay and double check all the connectors.
Id check under dash in the pedal area first. Easier, and would tell you a whole lot.
 

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Id check under dash in the pedal area first. Easier, and would tell you a whole lot.
Ive taken it to a reputable local shop and still no luck yet as we ran out of time. I’ll be taking it back soon to figure out what’s up.


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