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Premium Member
2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, long block
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been having odd symptoms with my clutch. The car has 105,000 miles on it, and a ton of go fast parts.

It feels like clutch pressure drops when doing quick shifts through the gears. It’s never an issue when cruising around like a normal driver. But when I start laying in to it, clutch pressure diminishes and by the time I’m up to 5th gear the pedal is not coming back to the correct height.

it’s hard to diagnose because it only happens under hard driving conditions when you gotta keep your eyes on the road and hands on the wheel.

clutch still pulls strong and engages well. No issues with slipping under load. No fluid leaking out from under the dash. It really feels like the slave cylinder is going bad, but I’m really hoping it’s the master cylinder if anything.

or could it just be a worn out clutch pedal spring? The previous owner may have put an aftermarket pedal spring in.. I’m not sure.

does anyone have any similar symptoms?

thanks!
 

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Don’t think I’m trying to sound rude but please check to see if you clutch return spring is even there. I removed mine and had similar issues until I bled my lines.
 

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If blending it doesn’t fix it I’d look into replace the slave in the trans.
If bleeding doesnt fix it, I'd replace the master. Then if the master doesnt fix it do the slave.

The slave involves dropping the trans, and thats a ton of work. The master is like a 75 dollar part and pretty straightforward install. I have burned through 2 or 3 masters at this point. Never burned through a slave, but I replace them whenever I have the trans out, for the most part.
 
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Premium Member
2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, long block
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have burned through 2 or 3 masters at this point. Never burned through a slave, but I replace them whenever I have the trans out, for the most part.
What did it feel like when your master went bad? so odd that there is no fluid leaking.

yeah any clutch work on these cars is usually a pain.

Don’t think I’m trying to sound rude but please check to see if you clutch return spring is even there. I removed mine and had similar issues until I bled my lines.
There is still a spring in there. would you recommend removing it?

Resivior looked full so didn't immediately think to bleed it. Guess that's a great place to start though.
 

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Premium Member
2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, long block
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
finally got around to bleeding the clutch... Did not improve my situation at all.
Its very weird that I still have great clutch strength. running E30 tune making lots of toque and no slip, no burning clutch smell ever.

still. every time i'm cruising, the first time i tap high RPM's the clutch pedal litterally drops about halfway down.
I put my foot under it and lift it back up and it goes back to normal operation.

Throwout bearing getting shifty with high rpm? idfk.

Mostly documenting this incase anyone else experiences these symptoms. I expect that sometime next year I'll be making a post about dropping the trans for a bad slave cylinder assembly.
 

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Super Moderator
2014 ST3. Garrett Powermax turbo, Thermal Turboback, CPE intercooler, JBR intake, Innovative RMM
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3,901 Posts
I had similar issues recently.

First noticed clutch pedal was feeling gritty at bottom of travel. Shortly after on a hot day pedal stuck to floor when i got in to leave work. Pulled it up and pedal would only return when not fully pressed to shift (interesting drive home to say the least). Swapped out the master/pedal assembly which had some black residue leaking out of the original where the clutch line hooks into it.

Fast forward 1 month, i noticed on fast shifts, the pedal doesnt return on its own as fast as my foot is moving. Shortly after pedal sticks down again, but this time its resistant to return. When i did get it yanked up, the clutch stayed applied and the pedal was now hydrolocked, this time requiring a tow (and upon trying to furth diagnose, ruptured my slave cylinder).

Anyway, after replacement of the ruptured slave and having the issue present still, figured the main problem was an issue with the clutch hose internally seprating, OR the large plastic fluid restrictor that resides inbetween the hard steel line and clutch hose. I ordered a JPC braided clutch line which replaces both of those parts simultaneously and that took care of it.

The chain of events that i Think took me down this road were #1 the failure of the master, #2 the contamination of the restrictor from the failed master, then #3 the rupturing of the slave from the restrictor acting as a check valve. I just happened to fix them in the order of 1,3,2. Oh well, car has been fine since.
 

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2013 ST2, AGP BWS turbo, long block
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had similar issues recently.
Greatly appreciate this reply. do you have link you could send for the JPC braided clutch line?

I don't see anything bad coming out of the master cylinder. and the slave is still holding the clutch friction fine. hoping its just that large plastic fluid restrictor. really does seem like just the fluid is getting caught up as the slave itself works smooth. Mine has never gotten stuck down. its always like halfway returned as if the return of the fluid to the master is being interrupted.
 
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