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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 10,000 miles ago, I changed out the clutch on my ST for an ACT Stage 4 with lightweight flywheel. It's been awesome up until now. Two weeks ago I was stuck in stop and go traffic in 100* weather and as time went on I could feel my car getting harder and harder to get into gear and the clutch starts picking up right off the floor.

Now, even if the car is cool, the clutch is still slightly engaged with the pedal all the way in and will never fully diseggage. Could this be due to air in the lines? Or am I looking at a warped clutch flywheel or shot slave cylinder, etc? I am not losing fluid at all.
 

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Check your slave cylinder. Air in the lines is a possibility too. Get a buddy and bleed the lines first. Maybe air from clutch change finally made it's way into the lines? 10k miles is making me skeptical about air, but it's an easy thing to bleed.

I had a similar problem in my Acura, but diagnosis was far from the usual, getting into gear was hard, shifting was difficult too, reverse was awful a grinded every single time. Finally one day, I was at a stop sign, clutch in, can't get into first. The bracket for the clutch pedal that attaches to the frame snapped and when I depressed the pedal, it torqued around the crack and prevented a full engagement of the master cylinder thus not engaging the clutch. I was pretty much power shifting for months as this crack was growing until failure. The bracket was just too thin in this area and wasn't particularly a huge problem with that car, but I wasn't the only one. That thing was a pain to get off, I tell you hwat. My face was on the pedals and feet on the headrest at one point trying to get the pedal out. It was quite funny calling around asking if any place had the clutch pedal. "No, not the pedal pads, the actual full clutch pedal." Ended up taking it to a muffler shop, plopped the pedal on the table and they welded it for like $10 real quick
 

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About 10,000 miles ago, I changed out the clutch on my ST for an ACT Stage 4 with lightweight flywheel. It's been awesome up until now. Two weeks ago I was stuck in stop and go traffic in 100* weather and as time went on I could feel my car getting harder and harder to get into gear and the clutch starts picking up right off the floor.

Now, even if the car is cool, the clutch is still slightly engaged with the pedal all the way in and will never fully diseggage. Could this be due to air in the lines? Or am I looking at a warped clutch flywheel or shot slave cylinder, etc? I am not losing fluid at all.
It's a hydraulic issue for sure.

The crappy part about it, is there is no real great troubleshooting for this even with your trans off. It's more of a replace and keep your fingers crossed.

One of three things are afoot.

1. Air in your lines
2. Bad slave cylinder
3. Bad master

Bleed your lines with fresh fluid, make sure to keep the fluid level in the reservoir ABOVE THE MIN LEVEL!!!! The clutch fluid pickup is at THE MIN LEVEL!!! Not the bottom like the brakes.

If the problem persists, you have two courses of action.

Drop your entire transmission to replace your slave cylinder.

Or you can spend the 70 bucks and install a new master cylinder. It comes as a pedal assembly of just the clutch pedal. I have all the details of this swap, and will be happy to keep you out of trouble. Should take about 1.5 hours to swap the master and bleed her.

While you are doing this, I strongly suggest swapping to the JPC SS clutch line. It won't solve your problems, but since you are bleeding the whole system anyway, it drastically improves clutch feel.

The master is an easier install with less down time, so doing it over the slave makes sense. If that doesnt work though, then time to drop the trans.

Are you still on the Original slave? Or did you buy a new one while you were in there?

As far as I know, I am the only person on here to swap out their clutch master cylinder. Lol

I was experiencing intermittent clutch failure, clutch hanging, and poor pedal feel. The let out point was all over the place depending on if the hydraulics were working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Deuce. I rebled it with a Motive bleeder and no change.

Slave cylinder was new from the ACT kit. I hate how these are plastic though, they feel so cheap. I'll double check the master and see if I can get a good deal on a new one before resorting to dropping the trans.

After your situation, and replacing the Master, everything was good? If you have a link to a write up I'd appreciate it greatly.
 

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Thanks Deuce. I rebled it with a Motive bleeder and no change.

Slave cylinder was new from the ACT kit. I hate how these are plastic though, they feel so cheap. I'll double check the master and see if I can get a good deal on a new one before resorting to dropping the trans.

After your situation, and replacing the Master, everything was good? If you have a link to a write up I'd appreciate it greatly.
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/38950-dirty-duecette-post1617841.html#post1617841

Photobucket screwed me, so I am currently re-hosting all my images and updating the thread.

Yeah after the new MC everything was right as rain.

Ford Focus Clutch Pedal Assembly for 2014 Ford Focus|DV6Z-7519-A : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com

For the money and time, really can't beat just doing the MC and hoping. I'm about to drop my trans for the 5th or 6th time, there's a wee bit of clutch slippage. Ugh. So many hours of labor.
 

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http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/38950-dirty-duecette-post1617841.html#post1617841

Photobucket screwed me, so I am currently re-hosting all my images and updating the thread.

Yeah after the new MC everything was right as rain.

Ford Focus Clutch Pedal Assembly for 2014 Ford Focus|DV6Z-7519-A : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com

For the money and time, really can't beat just doing the MC and hoping. I'm about to drop my trans for the 5th or 6th time, there's a wee bit of clutch slippage. Ugh. So many hours of labor.
Since my 2nd gear syncro is going out I'll pay you $200 and a case of beer ($55 limit lol maybe $60 if it's Ballast Point or something) to drop my trans and help me replace the syncros if Ford denies my warranty. That would probably be quicker than the damn dealer taking it for over a week to replace the trans all together. :cool:
 

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Since my 2nd gear syncro is going out I'll pay you $200 and a case of beer ($55 limit lol maybe $60 if it's Ballast Point or something) to drop my trans and help me replace the syncros if Ford denies my warranty. That would probably be quicker than the damn dealer taking it for over a week to replace the trans all together. :cool:
Oh geez, I never ****ed with the gearstacks. Regardless, its going to be like 8 hours of labor. Easy.
 

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Oh geez, I never ****ed with the gearstacks. Regardless, its going to be like 8 hours of labor. Easy.
I uninstalled/ruined my Cobb Short Shift plate...so now I am stock and feel like I'm in an old 359 Peterbuilt truck. It helped for a few weeks, but 2nd is being a b!tch again to get into gear. Ugh. Gonna have to take it in and try for warranty and miss a day of work. If they deny it then I'll have to find a plan B and call Speed
 

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I uninstalled/ruined my Cobb Short Shift plate...so now I am stock and feel like I'm in an old 359 Peterbuilt truck. It helped for a few weeks, but 2nd is being a b!tch again to get into gear. Ugh. Gonna have to take it in and try for warranty and miss a day of work. If they deny it then I'll have to find a plan B and call Speed
Hopefully they give you a new trans, if not, then you have a whole lot of parts and stuff to sort out. Its an install over a weekend for sure.
 

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Hopefully they give you a new trans, if not, then you have a whole lot of parts and stuff to sort out. Its an install over a weekend for sure.
Ugh. Even if they do give me a new trans I'll just get pissed off because I don't envision that one lasting very long either given the amount of syncro issues everyone has who beats on their car
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/38950-dirty-duecette-post1617841.html#post1617841

Photobucket screwed me, so I am currently re-hosting all my images and updating the thread.

Yeah after the new MC everything was right as rain.

Ford Focus Clutch Pedal Assembly for 2014 Ford Focus|DV6Z-7519-A : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com

For the money and time, really can't beat just doing the MC and hoping. I'm about to drop my trans for the 5th or 6th time, there's a wee bit of clutch slippage. Ugh. So many hours of labor.
Okay awesome thank you for the resources. It's definitely worth a shot after reading your experience. It's totally feasible that the master cylinder is failing internally due to the extra pressure required to move the slave. I sure hope so anyhow. I'll probably get on that this week and report back.

Looking forward to checking out your pictures too
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/38950-dirty-duecette-post1617841.html#post1617841

Photobucket screwed me, so I am currently re-hosting all my images and updating the thread.

Yeah after the new MC everything was right as rain.

Ford Focus Clutch Pedal Assembly for 2014 Ford Focus|DV6Z-7519-A : Genuine Factory OEM Parts & Accessories | TascaParts.com

For the money and time, really can't beat just doing the MC and hoping. I'm about to drop my trans for the 5th or 6th time, there's a wee bit of clutch slippage. Ugh. So many hours of labor.

So I put the new MC in and there's really no difference, but worth a shot. I realized if I took out the top clutch position sensor and press on the clutch pedal REALLY hard, it gives me just enough travel to barely make it into gear, which is enough to get me around town. So I'm thinking it's gotta be something slave cylinder or clutch/pressure plate (broken spring/fingers, warping, etc) related. Welp, looks like the engine and trans are both coming out from the top. I will definitely not be pulling the trans from the bottom of the car again, that was a nightmare.


EDIT:
On second thought before I do all that, I'm going to try as a last effort to upgrade the clutch line after reading the build thread from @UnfocusedST here:

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/40876-unfocusedst-s-2013-st2-build-57.html

0518150850__88626.1431954541.jpg


I'm thinking if this will allow more flow volume at a similar pressure, that may translate into more engagement? Fingers crossed!
 

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So I put the new MC in and there's really no difference, but worth a shot. I realized if I took out the top clutch position sensor and press on the clutch pedal REALLY hard, it gives me just enough travel to barely make it into gear, which is enough to get me around town. So I'm thinking it's gotta be something slave cylinder or clutch/pressure plate (broken spring/fingers, warping, etc) related. Welp, looks like the engine and trans are both coming out from the top. I will definitely not be pulling the trans from the bottom of the car again, that was a nightmare.


EDIT:
On second thought before I do all that, I'm going to try as a last effort to upgrade the clutch line after reading the build thread from @UnfocusedST here:

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/40876-unfocusedst-s-2013-st2-build-57.html

View attachment 262074


I'm thinking if this will allow more flow volume at a similar pressure, that may translate into more engagement? Fingers crossed!
Damn!!

I run that clutch line as well, it was a drastic difference in the right direction, feel wise. Made the clutch much easier to work, and smoother. It won't hurt anything, but It may not fix the problem.

Fingers crossed, hopefully your situation gets resolved without much more fuss.
 

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The plastic slave cylinder really isn't bad. I know someone who just swapped their clutch at 300K miles in their SVT. The slave did go before the clutch, however it was time for the clutch to be replaced. The slave was also plastic in my 05 Focus SE. Never had an issue. Now it is possible you have a bad slave. I think its more likely you have air in your line. If not bled properly its a pain to get all the air out. I used a Motive power bleeder and worked great. So if you haven't bleed the line again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The plastic slave cylinder really isn't bad. I know someone who just swapped their clutch at 300K miles in their SVT. The slave did go before the clutch, however it was time for the clutch to be replaced. The slave was also plastic in my 05 Focus SE. Never had an issue. Now it is possible you have a bad slave. I think its more likely you have air in your line. If not bled properly its a pain to get all the air out. I used a Motive power bleeder and worked great. So if you haven't bleed the line again.
Good to hear they hold up. Nah it can't be air, I've bled it 5 times with a pressure bleeder throughout the initial install until now, after changing the master cylinder, clutch line, diagnosing, once more for good measure, etc. All avenues now point toward broken clutch fingers or a warped disc or flywheel. I'm betting broken fingers.

@Duece McCracken , that clutch line is a nice part, but unfortunately didn't help. I'm glad it's on though, once I get this sorted out it'll be a lot better than the stock line with restrictor valve.

I appreciate your guys help thus far in figuring this out. Looks like the engine/trans will come out again to fix, which isn't so bad because it will give me an opportunity to clean up the motor, install an external wastegate and reroute EBCS lines more easily.


Question on a warranty claim though - if it is something like a broken clutch finger or spring, are those considered wear and tear, or do you think ACT would replace this under a warranty? I took a look at their warranty info on their website but they do not define what is considered wear and tear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATE:

So it turns out that the shop that put the clutch in earlier this year did not tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel to spec, and it appears they did not use thread locker on the bolts. 3 of the 6 bolts were finger tight and the other 3 came loose with very little effort.

New clutch is in and the car drives like a dream again. The part that pisses me off is that I basically have no recourse against the shop that installed this. I'm really just glad it's fixed.
 

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UPDATE:

So it turns out that the shop that put the clutch in earlier this year did not tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel to spec, and it appears they did not use thread locker on the bolts. 3 of the 6 bolts were finger tight and the other 3 came loose with very little effort.

New clutch is in and the car drives like a dream again. The part that pisses me off is that I basically have no recourse against the shop that installed this. I'm really just glad it's fixed.
Oh schnapp, well that will do it!!
 
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