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Discussion Starter #1
So i have read all the articles on how to bleed the clutch with my motive power bleeder; however, when i tried to the other day i had no fluid come out even though the nipple was literally so loose i thought it was going to fall out. Not sure why it isn't flowing - would someone be able to upload a video of how they did it?

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So i have read all the articles on how to bleed the clutch with my motive power bleeder; however, when i tried to the other day i had no fluid come out even though the nipple was literally so loose i thought it was going to fall out. Not sure why it isn't flowing - would someone be able to upload a video of how they did it?

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This how to says the bleed screw needs to come quite a ways out:
How to Bleed The Clutch | Capital ST Club

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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This how to says the bleed screw needs to come quite a ways out:
How to Bleed The Clutch | Capital ST Club

Hope that helps,
Mark
That's my article, I wrote a while back. It does need to come out quite a bit. It's not like your brakes where a 1/4 turn and fluid starts coming out. Last i remember it was like 2-3 full turns. I've bleed my clutch 4 times using the process I wrote up, haven't had any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's my article, I wrote a while back. It does need to come out quite a bit. It's not like your brakes where a 1/4 turn and fluid starts coming out. Last i remember it was like 2-3 full turns. I've bleed my clutch 4 times using the process I wrote up, haven't had any issues.
So weird then...i was seriously nervous the entire nipple was going to come off with how loose it was. Had my bleeder set to 12psi and nothing came out

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yea, just back it out a bit more. Obviously don't go crazy, but just take it a 1/8-1/4 turn at a time until fluid comes out, then give it a little bit more of turn. I was told from a ford master tech, not to pressurize over 15psi, but to be above 10psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yea, just back it out a bit more. Obviously don't go crazy, but just take it a 1/8-1/4 turn at a time until fluid comes out, then give it a little bit more of turn. I was told from a ford master tech, not to pressurize over 15psi, but to be above 10psi.
Okay will do. Yeah, i never do more than 15psi. Keep it at 13psi to ensure i get good flow

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Discussion Starter #7
yea, just back it out a bit more. Obviously don't go crazy, but just take it a 1/8-1/4 turn at a time until fluid comes out, then give it a little bit more of turn. I was told from a ford master tech, not to pressurize over 15psi, but to be above 10psi.
Reviving an old thread - went to bleed the clutch again today and the nipple literally came off I turned it so far and nothing came out. I really don't understand what is wrong with my bleeder valve, because supposedly a Ford tech bled my system in the past.

I am using a motive power bleed vs. Vaccuum pump.

Going to TOTD on Tuesday and would appreciate your help.
 

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Are you completely against trying to manually bleed the clutch? I've found it the most effective way in the past on some vehicles, but I have not done it to an ST yet although it was a '15 Focus SE. If you can get an assistant all you have to do is have them pump the clutch 3-5 times and hold it down. Then try loosening the bleeder screw on the slave while they hold it down and see if anything comes out. Before having the clutch pedal released again after that make sure you close the bleeder. Try this a few times and if nothing comes out there is a real problem.
I'm sorry if this was already tried, I'm just trying to help!
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Are you completely against trying to manually bleed the clutch? I've found it the most effective way in the past on some vehicles, but I have not done it to an ST yet although it was a '15 Focus SE. If you can get an assistant all you have to do is have them pump the clutch 3-5 times and hold it down. Then try loosening the bleeder screw on the slave while they hold it down and see if anything comes out. Before having the clutch pedal released again after that make sure you close the bleeder. Try this a few times and if nothing comes out there is a real problem.
I'm sorry if this was already tried, I'm just trying to help!
Thanks @Fordtech402. I'll have a buddy help out soon. It's a real pain not being able to do it on my own.

When I got back in the car the clutch was fine even though I backed the nut off all the way... Weird

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Thanks @Fordtech402. I'll have a buddy help out soon. It's a real pain not being able to do it on my own.

When I got back in the car the clutch was fine even though I backed the nut off all the way... Weird

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That is very weird, hope everything works out well! :RockOn:
 
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I actually had a weird experience few days ago. I was using the motiv power bleeder and when loosening the bleeder air was slowly getting out, then when I kept loosening it then there was nothing. So as I was tightening it back it was starting to flow again and push more air out. I was like ???? idk. I tightened it back up and everything is perfect. Just found it odd that tightening it back actually bled more.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That is very weird, hope everything works out well! :RockOn:
Sooooo.....I had my friend get in so we could perform a manual bleed. Pumping clutch, holding clutch down, opening valve, closing valve, letting off of clutch. What happened next? Fluid begins coming out but then stops and pedal is dead. Absolutely nothing - straight down to the floor.

Called a buddy and told me gravity bleeding is the best way to do these cars. Hook up the tubing into bottle with brake fluid to create vacuum, open the bleeder valve, then slowly move the clutch in and out. Sure enough, it worked! The air slowly pushed out and my clutch regained pressure. I ONLY recommend people gravity bleed this clutch and slowly move in and out until all bubbles are out. You DO NOT want to ruin the slave cylinder doing any other type of bleeding procedure (especially with the two-man job).

If I had known this first off, it would have taken me all of 2mins to do. Helpful advice for those of you struggling with the same issues as me!
 

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Sooooo.....I had my friend get in so we could perform a manual bleed. Pumping clutch, holding clutch down, opening valve, closing valve, letting off of clutch. What happened next? Fluid begins coming out but then stops and pedal is dead. Absolutely nothing - straight down to the floor.

Called a buddy and told me gravity bleeding is the best way to do these cars. Hook up the tubing into bottle with brake fluid to create vacuum, open the bleeder valve, then slowly move the clutch in and out. Sure enough, it worked! The air slowly pushed out and my clutch regained pressure. I ONLY recommend people gravity bleed this clutch and slowly move in and out until all bubbles are out. You DO NOT want to ruin the slave cylinder doing any other type of bleeding procedure (especially with the two-man job).

If I had known this first off, it would have taken me all of 2mins to do. Helpful advice for those of you struggling with the same issues as me!
That's a good idea. I think with the power bleeder (1 man job) I think for the clutch its still good to have that 2nd person cause you do deff need to pump the clutch. I also learned to always do any clutch work in Nuetral hah. I unfortunately did this parked in 1st gear and my clutch pedal was dead like you said.
 

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Interestingly, the transmission shop that installed my clutch and LSD, couldn't bleed the clutch properly using the two man method, claimed they also hate power bleeding e.g. motiv or similar. But were not able to get all the air out, and clutch would fall to the floor overnight. I ended up using my Motiv and it worked like a champ.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That's a good idea. I think with the power bleeder (1 man job) I think for the clutch its still good to have that 2nd person cause you do deff need to pump the clutch. I also learned to always do any clutch work in Nuetral hah. I unfortunately did this parked in 1st gear and my clutch pedal was dead like you said.
The gravity bleed method is a one-person job, which is the best part!

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how often should 1 bleed said clutch?
Brake fluid should be replaced every two years if DD because it's hydroscopic; however, I'm anal and will do it every year. If you race and are prone to boiling the liquid, then after every event or two.

When I say brake fluid, I'm referring to flushing the entire system (brake + clutch) starting with rear passenger brake on up, ending with the clutch.

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Interestingly, the transmission shop that installed my clutch and LSD, couldn't bleed the clutch properly using the two man method, claimed they also hate power bleeding e.g. motiv or similar. But were not able to get all the air out, and clutch would fall to the floor overnight. I ended up using my Motiv and it worked like a champ.
Motive didn't work for me (obviously lol as I've written this post)

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Brake fluid should be replaced every two years if DD because it's hydroscopic; however, I'm anal and will do it every year. If you race and are prone to boiling the liquid, then after every event or two.

When I say brake fluid, I'm referring to flushing the entire system (brake + clutch) starting with rear passenger brake on up, ending with the clutch.

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Yeah I need to plan to do it, I did the brakes but have not done the clutch, the clutch seems great and I am at 67k on my 2015. I think it is time, will look at it this weekend for sure.
 
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