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fair enough. Still worth a shot. Popping misfire codes is what happened to my '14 ST. They replaced the engine under warranty for that, but it was related to poor injector on cylinder 1 & not triggering a CEL soon enough, so it warped/killed/whatever the piston.

Started raining again as soon as I put the engine cover back on. The updated info is different than I originally posted (why I write this stuff down..D'oh!).

Last swapped plugs 12/15/20 @ 27,500 miles, so not even 3,000 miles on them yet! They are fouled as bad as the stock ones when I swapped them... Gaps (started @ .028) -cyl #1 = .030. -cyl #2 = .028, -cyl #3 = .028, -cyl #4 = .0315.

Heading to get new plugs now, but wow... Was not expecting to see such carnage in less than 3k miles! These were the Ford Performance tune 2 step colder plugs. I'm getting the standard 1 step colder NGK's (hopefully in stock somewhere near here).
 

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Here are a couple pics. They all look about the same. It took a minute to get the phone cable and upload to the computer (needed them on file anyways).
Cylider #4
391895

Cylinder #3
391897

Cylinder #2
391934

Cylinder #1
391896


Edited for same pic on cylinder #1 & 2
 

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My local napa got the ngk rutheniums 1 step colder in a couple days. On sale now.
Beautiful! In Stock! $41.72 ($5 off for signing up for something). Much appreciated! they're ~$14 @ Auto Zone and not in stock either.

The problem is: What killed them? Is that an indicator associated with the purge valve failing? Timing?
I very rarely get on the throttle in 5th or 6th. Always downshifting to 4th when I need to pass on the hwy, so shouldn't be an pre-ignition issues (from what I understand). Running standard 20psi boost targets.

@xTheMan42 , so I should gap these (NGK #95605) to .026?
 
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So I couldn't find my proper gapping tool, so I went to O'Reilly's to get a new one. The old dude schooled me with a simple piece of info (once I told him my 'old set' of shims doesn't go high enough)... He said "Why don't you layer them to equal the correct gap?" dang, that was a slap in the face, lol.

Anyways, new ruthenium plugs installed @ .027". Did not get the 15/17 misfires during the same ~1 mile loop. got 1 misfire during warm-up only. So that's good. Still need the purge valve swapped ASAP to clear the check list. Could not get the compression check tool today. I really just need to buy my own I guess.

Idle is certainly smoother. I also reset the ECU & remapped to the COBB OTS stage 2 map for reference. Pulls pretty decent, but not really in Stage 3 territory (according to the butt-dyno). Smooth is king, and I'm happy where the car is ATM. Problem still stands for why 4 plugs with less than 3k miles on them got fouled so bad. Looks like a lot of pre-ignition, you think? There is a TON of carbon build up on the plugs I just took out....
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett Powermax turbo, Thermal Turboback, CPE intercooler, JBR intake, Innovative RMM
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@Smokin' Joe if it's pulling raw fuel vapors in through the purge, it will certainly be running rich and trying to unequally change fuel trims to try and compensate.
 

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Yeah, upped the priority to get the purge valve done real quick when I saw that mess!
 

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Also I guess I'll be pulling the intake manifold off and opening that can of worms soon too. Wheee! Maintenance items I didn't know existed 😑
 
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So I couldn't find my proper gapping tool, so I went to O'Reilly's to get a new one. The old dude schooled me with a simple piece of info (once I told him my 'old set' of shims doesn't go high enough)... He said "Why don't you layer them to equal the correct gap?" dang, that was a slap in the face, lol.

Anyways, new ruthenium plugs installed @ .027". Did not get the 15/17 misfires during the same ~1 mile loop. got 1 misfire during warm-up only. So that's good. Still need the purge valve swapped ASAP to clear the check list. Could not get the compression check tool today. I really just need to buy my own I guess.

Idle is certainly smoother. I also reset the ECU & remapped to the COBB OTS stage 2 map for reference. Pulls pretty decent, but not really in Stage 3 territory (according to the butt-dyno). Smooth is king, and I'm happy where the car is ATM. Problem still stands for why 4 plugs with less than 3k miles on them got fouled so bad. Looks like a lot of pre-ignition, you think? There is a TON of carbon build up on the plugs I just took out....
These engines eat Plugs, but it sounds like you're on the right track now.

If you're monitoring misfire counts with your AP - don't. Misfires are normal with the ecoboost platform to an extent, especially on cold start. Unless you're throwing a CEL, there's no issue.
 

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So I couldn't find my proper gapping tool, so I went to O'Reilly's to get a new one. The old dude schooled me with a simple piece of info (once I told him my 'old set' of shims doesn't go high enough)... He said "Why don't you layer them to equal the correct gap?" dang, that was a slap in the face, lol.
C'MON MAN
 

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C'MON MAN
Yeah, brain wasn't in mechanical mode at the time, lol. The old feelers were given to me a decade ago, and I never used them once. Once I pulled out the Vernier calipers, it turns out they are the most accurate, even to the new set. Had a coin gauge in the box for some reason (never used it either) and it was reading 0.026 at the .021 mark & 0.035 @ 0.030. Holy over-gapping your plugs Batman!

Haven't seen the p0316 code since the new plugs, but still getting around 8 misfires logged during the warm up. I know I know, don't pay attention to that.

Dealership told me I don't have a recall for the EVAP/Purge valve because my build date is May 1st 2018 (Recall applies to February 14, 2012 through February 2, 2018, don't know HTF that works, but okie-dokie). Uninstalled the COBB AP for nothing I guess. There goes another 15 minutes of uninstall & reinstall I'll never get back. ⏳🔨

Getting parts today for purge valve rebuild anyways.

Need to download all the data logs from the past week and see what's what.
 

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having just installed cobb filter, ruthenium ltr7osc, pv assembly...... my new used v3 said 5 codes inc p0316

after setting to stage 0... No Codes Found
 

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Not specifically but the service tech referenced a couple TSBs (being too lazy to post #s here but they are easy enough to find) about coolant leaking into the cylinders in Ecoboost engines. At first he said I'd need a new cylinder head but the next day said it was the whole engine. My assumption is they did compression checks and isolated the leak to a crack in the block in cylinder 3. Sucks but at least it's covered.

Though they've had it for a month, and apparently mine is one of 5 cars in for engine replacements, which is wild to me.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

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Not specifically but the service tech referenced a couple TSBs (being too lazy to post #s here but they are easy enough to find) about coolant leaking into the cylinders in Ecoboost engines. At first he said I'd need a new cylinder head but the next day said it was the whole engine. My assumption is they did compression checks and isolated the leak to a crack in the block in cylinder 3. Sucks but at least it's covered.

Though they've had it for a month, and apparently mine is one of 5 cars in for engine replacements, which is wild to me.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
Mine was the same. 2016 - 59k miles. They replaced the whole motor after it spun a bearing. About 93k on the chassis now. About 10k miles ago I had an issue with one of the coolant hoses from the firewall. The stupid little clip thing to lock it in failed so it was slowly leaking coolant. Fixed that and that's the only issue I've had since the motor was replaced. Took the dealer over a month to replace the motor. I did the hose myself. Replaced the other one too while I was at it.

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