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Did that end up fixing you’re issue? I’m having similar problems with mine now on cylinder 2 and nobody can figure anything out.
Did they physically replace your purge valve? I saw you had the purge valve recall done but unless they actually replaced the valve (replacing the valve was not an automatic part of the recall), I'd start there. It should say on your paperwork from the recall whether or not they replaced the part.
 

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Did they physically replace your purge valve? I saw you had the purge valve recall done but unless they actually replaced the valve (replacing the valve was not an automatic part of the recall), I'd start there. It should say on your paperwork from the recall whether or not they replaced the part.
The sheet from the dealer indicates the canister purge valve was replaced, in addition to a pcm calibration update. Also states the tank was not deformed.

After this work I received a cel again, so they were going to replace the injector in cylinder 3, after removing the fuel rail, they found coolant leaking from the head gasket then they went down the path of replacing the head gasket. After removing the head they found evidence of coolant leaking into cylinder 3 as well. Assumed at the time this was probably why my code was always cylinder 3. Haven’t had a cel since the head gasket was replaced, almost a year now.


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Well well well...I signed up here a while back and used the forum a little but now I'm here because of this same damn issue (Cylinder 4 misfire)...I've noticed this odd phenomenon as well, the odd losing of power for seconds and then normal and repeat when at lower RPMs. I've not read through this entire thread but I will later tonight to determine if there was a fix, but this issue from what I've read so far is persistent and unable to be fixed. I'm considering trading it in as I'm in the market for a Pickup, not a Ford.

Cylinder 4 misfire
I believe it was just under a full tank of premium fuel 93 octane
Just left supermarket and driven less than 5 minutes.
46K miles on odometer, never had an issue before this check engine light
Checked codes at autozone, have not contacted dealer.

Just before this occurrence had 45K mile service, performed the direct injection cleaning to remove carbon buildup, replaced brake fluid, oil, etc. Made me wonder if what they did contributed to this issue coming up. Also wondered if it was bad fuel since I'd just filled up.
 

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Did they physically replace your purge valve? I saw you had the purge valve recall done but unless they actually replaced the valve (replacing the valve was not an automatic part of the recall), I'd start there. It should say on your paperwork from the recall whether or not they replaced the part.
yea they replaced it and the. I just ordered another and replaced the recall one last month because it’s cheap enough to do. No change.
 

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Hey guys, I would really like some help with this. I just purchased a used 2015 focus st with 49k miles from a private seller. The car does not have a check engine light so when I was checking out the car I thought everything was fine. I do notice a slight stumble when idling, anyway once I got home I checked the cobb access port for stored codes and these were the codes: P0300,P0303,P0316, and U0284. I am not sure what to do next since I did not purchase this car from the dealer and I am pretty sure that I need to pass an emissions test to get the car registered. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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U0284 is just do to an after market intercooler and he didn’t reinstall the shutters because they don’t fit. No big deal. The others are random and under 1000rpm misfire. So your problem is cylinder 3 at some point. Maybe plugs. At least check and compare. Also test the gap to see if he knew what he was doing. That’s a really easy fix before you start worrying. None of this should stop you from passing emissions testing.
 

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Ok I wanna give a heads up to the worry warts in here. I bought my 2018 with 60 miles on it back in March if last year. At around 5k I got a cold start misfire code, took it in they did that worthless TSB with new plugs which from what I have heard are fiesta plugs if I remember correctly which are "supposed" to be gapped down to .040, which questioned them about because that's entirely to big and asked about the software mod, well come to find they change the timing event somewhat because they say the combustion was bending spark plugs. Well I got home, never through a another check engine light but after about 200 miles, I popped the plugs out and checked them they gapped them to the normal .028, not the .040 the tsb called for. So anyways I popped those ** plugs out put in some 6510s and loaded my accessport and I haven't had any hard misfires yet. So now, does the car still have misfires yes of course, I have owned this car long enuff now and a Speed6 also, and these ecoboost motors are just notorious for low end cold start warm up open loop mis fires. I can literally tell in an instant when my car goes from open to closed loop at full operating temp because any lil misfire I may have been getting disappears. I have had my compression checked at 22k and I was 170 across all 4 and I'm at 32k now running great. I still have lil bumples and mumbles but only during warm up and an occasional one here and there but nothing that throws check engine lights at all and I check my accessport for hard and soft codes every week or two just to be safe. Just a heads up for people thinking that a misfire means ** death oh now, don't sweat it so much.
I had a similar experience. The TSB (software update/new plugs at .040) has really fixed the problem for me. I haven't seen a check engine light in well over 20k miles, through hot and cold seasons. I still get minor rpm stubles on startup, even with the purge valve replaced, but they go away quickly. The problem is officially fixed in my book.

But there are a few remaining questions, like now that I am ready for new plugs, do I install plugs gapped at .040 again, or go with the official recommendation of .028-.032?

Any thoughts? Myself, I am stock. I understand tuned folks would want to stick with the closer gap.
 

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I was running one-step colder plugs gapped at .027" for a good chunk of the first year I had my 2018 (approximately 10,500 miles so far). 95% of that was on that stock tune, too.
 

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Whe
I had a similar experience. The TSB (software update/new plugs at .040) has really fixed the problem for me. I haven't seen a check engine light in well over 20k miles, through hot and cold seasons. I still get minor rpm stubles on startup, even with the purge valve replaced, but they go away quickly. The problem is officially fixed in my book.

But there are a few remaining questions, like now that I am ready for new plugs, do I install plugs gapped at .040 again, or go with the official recommendation of .028-.032?

Any thoughts? Myself, I am stock. I understand tuned folks would want to stick with the closer gap.
When you decide to do your plugs then decide on what your gonna gap them at, Im saying this because I wouldn't be surprised if your dealer still installed the plugs at .028 with the ecu calibration. I say that because I had the same TSB done, and when I got home I pulled the plugs with the updated part number and they were gapped down to like .030 and .028...whicj is where they usually should be, what made most of the difference is the ecu calibration they did. Im really interested to see what you find. But if you pull them and they are at .040 and you said they fixed ur issues then just replace with plugs at that same gap if that's what they are gapped to...check them tho when u pull them.
 

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I can be added to the list. My 2018 ST1 (I bought used with 12,000) began having misfires at 29,000. In the past two weeks, they have changed plugs (returned the next day), injectors (returned the day after), and it has now been in for a week (getting a new head gasket and cylinder head). I was told yesterday that I should get it back today.

I just discovered this thread today, and am wondering what my next step should be? Am I to assume this is going to come back? I'm nervous, as I am nearing the end of my bumper-bumper.

Do I ask a salesperson what a trade in would be? I don't really want a new Ford... I could possibly get an RS, but the idea of buying a now 4 year old car for +$30,000 isn't ideal either.

I am grateful to know that I am not alone in the troubles of this issue, and would appreciate the guidance of those who have gone through it before. Thanks all!
 

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Did Ford ever officially validate an intake valve cleaning method?
Is that why they replaced your head? Carbon build up?

That's one potential reason for misfires.
 

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They are currently claiming the problem was caused by the head gasket. They hadn't mentioned an abundant carbon build up.

I did forget to clarify about the cylinder head. They sent the head in to get tested and was damaged in shipping. So they were forced to put on a new one.

In an unfortunate turn of events, they called and said they didn't have enough time to do the install. So it will have to wait until next week for an update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,695 ·

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Just hit 30k miles & noticed the P0316 code while disabling the double honk in Forscan. Misfire code for cylinder #2 as well. Took a log on a 1 mile drive & got 9 misfires; 2 of those were counted during deceleration (which was surprising). I'm gonna pull the spark plugs as soon as this rain lets up, but I replaced them maybe 8k miles ago & gapped them to .028.

I have an appointment at the dealership on Monday for the EVAP/Purge valve recall (still building the assembly for quick swaps as instructed here: The Purge (Valve): FUFF ([email protected]#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2...
but since it's a recall (free) I'll get my one time complete assembly from them 1st.
 
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Just hit 30k miles & noticed the P0316 code while disabling the double honk in Forscan. Misfire code for cylinder #2 as well. Took a log on a 1 mile drive & got 9 misfires; 2 of those were counted during deceleration (which was surprising). I'm gonna pull the spark plugs as soon as this rain lets up, but I replaced them maybe 8k miles ago & gapped them to .028.

I have an appointment at the dealership on Monday for the EVAP/Purge valve recall (still building the assembly for quick swaps as instructed here: The Purge (Valve): FUFF ([email protected]#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2...
but since it's a recall (free) I'll get my one time complete assembly from them 1st.
You should really be at .026.
 

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You should really be at .026.
Yeah, I noticed the car was much more happy when I installed the newer plugs @ .028. Having gone through the 'Ford Fix' noted in this thread, they stated to gap at .040 or something outrageous... I kind of took the middle road just to see, and it was a good enough improvement that I left it there.

The rain is letting up, so I'll have a chance to see where they're at currently. I feel like my engine needs a big hug and an apology, lol.
 

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Just hit 30k miles & noticed the P0316 code while disabling the double honk in Forscan. Misfire code for cylinder #2 as well. Took a log on a 1 mile drive & got 9 misfires; 2 of those were counted during deceleration (which was surprising). I'm gonna pull the spark plugs as soon as this rain lets up, but I replaced them maybe 8k miles ago & gapped them to .028.

I have an appointment at the dealership on Monday for the EVAP/Purge valve recall (still building the assembly for quick swaps as instructed here: The Purge (Valve): FUFF ([email protected]#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2...
but since it's a recall (free) I'll get my one time complete assembly from them 1st.
You may not get a new valve assembly; they will check it and if it's good they will just flash ecu to trip a code if it stops working. There is no fix for this except to replace the valve regularly.
 
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