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so my stoptech ss brake lines came in and i wanna put em in tomorrow. should i start the install with RP, RD, FP, FD? and when i bleed the brakes should i bleed after each line is installed or just bleed after they are all changed?
 

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Took me quite a few minutes to figure out what the heck RP, RD, and all that jazz was, LOL. Hve to say, never seen that before. I assume that was to make sure you got your lefts and rights right? Remember this; if it moves, L and R are ALWAYS from the drivers point of view; cars, trucks, boats, airplanes, all of it.
 

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Just be sure you don't post back here about how awesome your brakes feel now.

SS lines do nothing for a DD. You will be hard-pressed to notice them on the last session of your track day. They are mostly for looks.
 

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Just be sure you don't post back here about how awesome your brakes feel now.

SS lines do nothing for a DD. You will be hard-pressed to notice them on the last session of your track day. They are mostly for looks.
I wouldn't say they are for looks. They won't help you brake any better but they do improve pedal feel.

Sent from another garage.
 

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I wouldn't say they are for looks. They won't help you brake any better but they do improve pedal feel.

Sent from another garage.

Completely agree. I literally just put SS lines on my lifted '02 F150...HUGE difference in pedal feel. I I've read quite a few articles that summed up there's only three ways to truly increase braking performance; calipers (bigger/multiple pistons), larger diameter rotors, and SS lines...anything else is just "feel". The lines on my truck (and one other Mustang I did them on) truly made a noticeable difference in capability.
 

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Took me quite a few minutes to figure out what the heck RP, RD, and all that jazz was, LOL. Hve to say, never seen that before. I assume that was to make sure you got your lefts and rights right? Remember this; if it moves, L and R are ALWAYS from the drivers point of view; cars, trucks, boats, airplanes, all of it.

lol. So I wasnt the only one confused, I have never heard it called RP RD.
 

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Completely agree. I literally just put SS lines on my lifted '02 F150...HUGE difference in pedal feel. I I've read quite a few articles that summed up there's only three ways to truly increase braking performance; calipers (bigger/multiple pistons), larger diameter rotors, and SS lines...anything else is just "feel". The lines on my truck (and one other Mustang I did them on) truly made a noticeable difference in capability.
Decreasing weight increases it quite a bit, especially unsprung weight.
 

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I wouldn't say they are for looks. They won't help you brake any better but they do improve pedal feel.

Sent from another garage.
It's in your head. Stainless lines make you feel better about yourself. That's it.

Next, you'll be posting about how your SS lines are 'DOT approved'. No such thing.
 

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It's in your head. Stainless lines make you feel better about yourself. That's it.

Next, you'll be posting about how your SS lines are 'DOT approved'. No such thing.
Abrasion resistance/ toughness is true for SS, and pedal feel to a degree, but this yields no increased braking performance at all. Just some feel.

People have this wierd "OMG SS LINES BRAKE SO GOOD" mentality, when its just a bit of feel.

I like running them because I crawl my ST through construction jobsites, and have caught all sorts of **** on my chassis. Pedal feel is real though, just not a reduction in stopping distance, lol.
 

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If changing the lines doesn't really do anything (which this thread has enlightened me about) does changing the fluid not really make a difference either?
 

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If changing the lines doesn't really do anything (which this thread has enlightened me about) does changing the fluid not really make a difference either?
If you track your car having fluid with a higher boiling point is very important. Also the fluid over time collects moisture lowering the boiling point. So yes changing fluid does help depending on what you do with the car. Also if you boil the fluid it must be changed.

Sent from another garage.
 

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Now would be a good time to get a higher boiling point racing brake fluid if you plan to track it. I am personally using motul rbf660 on mine

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 

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Well, there's a little more to this fluid thing. And you can't just say "boiling point"; there's wet and dry. And what you're doing with the fluid determines which one is very important. For track, sure, dry is important. But if you're not going to endure the hassle of changing fluid just for the track event and need a dual purpose fluid, there are other factors. If you're going to leave fluid in the car all the time, it's a compromise. The higher the dry boiling point (as a general rule), the more susceptible the fluid is to retaining moisture. For normal street use, wet boiling point can tell as much, if not more of the story, than dry. If you're going to run this fluid all the time, don't just run out and buy the fluid with the highest boiling point you can get. Instead, get the highest wet fluid you can get, or search for a fluid with a good balance.
 

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Very true. Best wet boiling point I've seen do far is the Castrol SRF. There could be other but have not seen them yet But for me I found that for the price of the motul RBF 660 is a good balance for dry and wet. They are many options. But for me personally that was the one I preffered

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Wow thanks guys, I didn't even know about wet/dry. Thought it was all wet! I'm not going to do this as I will *never* track it but was just curious.
 

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