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2016 ST2, Absolute Black, Monster FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, ALEX' Shift Bushings,PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my car with a little under 36,000 mi on it. Didn't intend to do that much, mainly going for shift feel and longevity. Car mostly what I wanted, much improved over 2013 Mazda 6 SPD manual 2.0 Skyactiv.

Cash because it's black in memory of Johnny Cash.

My main purpose starting this thread is to post pics and comments that might help others. And so I can find them easier in the future. 馃槉馃榿

Over a year and 9000 mi later, recently discovered car likely has 91 Cobb OTS tune but no AP. Considering next steps while waiting on Whoosh intercooler and running 91-93 with OAR currently at -1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I put on a JBR intake when I realized the stock pipe mid-rubber joint was damaged. I heated and stretched it, which improved it, but I still didn't like it. And the JBR wasn't much more $ than 1 of the 2 stock pipes.

391768
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The JBR intake was a royal PITA. It was hard to install for several reasons.
  • Breather tube a tight fit, but didn't have to sand it like some report. Much easier to install breather tube on pipe first, then install on valve cover once intake in place.
  • Only had 1 hold down. This makes it nearly impossible to keep from tapping firewall bracket. With aftermarket RMM and multiple adjustments eventually got it marginally OK.
  • Valve cover had a stud that hit bottom of bracket, so I cut about 1/4" off.
  • It sounded raspy which I really didn't like, so put on some leftover dynamat which helped some.

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Got extra leftover stock intake and box from another forum member, so I plan to return the favor with this POS once I run stock awhile to be sure all OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The valve cover end of breather tube snapped at some point, probably installing the JBR intake. Fished it out of valve cover with a pick. Discovered when installing catch can.

This pic also shows $20 rubber pcv elbow I thought would work good going over the valve cover connection, but was cracking in less than a year.

391774
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Didn't get any oil in breather catch can. Stock turbo, and also have better PCV can with extra check valve. This kinda shows how I had it plumbed. The can was mounted on top intake hole where symposer was.

391775
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah, so it was indeed a higher octane tune that was installed. I thought so. Good thing you got off that 87.
Yes, doing math on the first 93 fill-up with 87 regular came out to 91 almost perfectly.

It's too bad Torque can't get ignition corrections, just timing advance.

Wastegate commanded and actual ride over the top of each other, but still doesn't go over about 18 psi. Maybe hitting target since not hot yet?

I think I agree Torque is too slow to get knock counts, they were always 0. Or maybe bad PID?

The raw knock sensor output still about 30-150 idle-accelerating, but a little smoother and not as quick to move on the 91 mix vs 87.

Good to see OAR at -1. 馃檪
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm curious to see if I'll get any oil in the stock intake now or not. If so, have to come up with another alternative for the can plumbing, maybe try a different can. Maybe don't get much breather oil on the stock turbo with good PCV can setup.

Would be easier to put the can on passenger firewall now without the huge intake in the way. 馃槈

I found these I thought might help adapt the stock breather hose with 3/8 barb fittings, but didn't try them. Not feeling good about the cheap rubber. Don't want to suck that down the turbo.
391776
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I
Fell into a burning ring of fire?
馃榿馃憤

Glad it was the valve cover end, not the intake end that broke 馃槈

Did make me wonder if tone ring could get knocked loose by it? Say nobody realized it broke off and put a new one over it, pushing the broken portion into the valve cover? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
pic of you're whole e.b? at some point or another
Yeah, I'll have to get some pics when I give it the quarterly washing, maybe wax. Gotta put the headlight armor on too.

Not much in the way of looks mods so far.
  • Lightest gray laminix fog light film to match others.
  • yellow halogen fogs.
  • ST wheel centers
  • ST logos over Ford on steering wheel, front and back emblems.
  • Husky mats.
  • Generic trimmed Rubber Weathertech cargo liner. The rubber helps keep stuff from sliding better then the custom fit ones that are more plastic-y.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
how did you figure this out, I have a hard time believing my car is stock tuned, unless stock ST's are just fast as balls(21psi i guess)
The first clue was no rev hang.

Then I eventually started paying more attention to what folks said, asked questions, and read up how the Cobb AP3 works.
https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/96997251/Ford+Focus+ST+Map+Notes

When I combined that with the fact the car had a Cobb air filter and RMM, that equals their stage 1 package.

So I tried the slot map switching and it worked! Slot 1 performance 18 psi, slot 2 economy 8 psi. The 18 psi and no felt knocks is what made me initially think it was 87 stage 1 tune, but the OAR going close to 0 on 87 didn't add up.

And launch control is there too, although I've actually not used it. Then it was down to figuring out the tune response to octane and when I got it to about 91, OAR went down to -1.

Previous use of android TorquePro app with Bluetooth elm327 adapter made it easier. Maybe $20 for the app and adapter.
There was another member I got Focus ST PIDs from that helped a lot too.
Using Torque App - Available Temp Data?

So now I'm weighing the value of getting the AP3 and a better tune sooner rather than later vs other things I might want to get like a downpipe, or other mechanical things like brakes or suspension.

I really like the Adaptx. I want to understand what options I have to get the most out of it, and get the FMIC installed first.
 

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how did you figure this out, I have a hard time believing my car is stock tuned, unless stock ST's are just fast as balls(21psi i guess)
Easiest would be to see if it has launch control. Put it in first gear on a flat surface so you're not rolling at all. Put the clutch all the way down to the floor. Then slam the throttle to the floor hard and fast. You got to really commit you got to do it hard and fast or it won't work. It should stop around 24-2500 RPMs depending on what it's set to. If it goes right to Red line take your foot off the throttle pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Easiest would be to see if it has launch control. Put it in first gear on a flat surface so you're not rolling at all. Put the clutch all the way down to the floor. Then slam the throttle to the floor hard and fast. You got to really commit you got to do it hard and fast or it won't work. It should stop around 24-2500 RPMs depending on what it's set to. If it goes right to Red line take your foot off the throttle pretty quick.
True!
I later thought many custom tunes don't support map switching with slots and cruise buttons, but many do support launch control, and possibly other features like flat foot shifting and traction settings.
 

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True!
I later thought many custom tunes don't support map switching with slots and cruise buttons, but many do support launch control, and possibly other features like flat foot shifting and traction settings.
From what I know they all have launch control and they are all enabled by default. Map switching doesn't work for mine as I only have one map slot.
 

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god its good to know i wasn't the only one whos JBR intake didn't fit right, also i rigged up my own catch can setup for the valvecover breather. however i didn't' break the connectors so i was able to re-use them.

You can buy those connectors for not too much money, but I dont know what they are called, either way they are ubiquitous so if you can find out what they are called they should be easy to get.

What I did was warm up the hard plastic hose and pull at off the connectors, then I found some rubber hose that fit over the connectors and used brass reducers to get down to the size needed for the catch can, i put metal clamps on all the connections.

I'm pretty sure it was 5/16" ID hose that fit over the conenctors but i could be wrong.
 
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