Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I posted back in April about the car overheating with the AC on and sitting in traffic...It is a 2013 75k about 15k on the motor. I haven't driven the car much and have disabled the AGS, installed a new Motorcraft fan assembly, changed the relays, new thermostat and new water pump. You can drive it on the highway and it's perfect no overheating but as soon as the car is up to temp and you hit traffic the gauge slowly climbs to 3/4 maybe once it went 1 needle width above. As soon as you start moving it cools back down. It has never thrown a code. There are no leaks in the system. If the AC is on it will climb much faster once you come to a stop. I'm kind of stumped at this point. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Do you think it could be the radiator?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Talked to a few mech friends had the shop that did the motor do the fan on the lift (much easier out the bottom) and did the water pump and tstat with a buddy who was once a diesel mech. It going to the dealer on the 14th for recall work maybe I'll have them take a look.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
Still have your OEM grill shutter? Any chance it's stuck? Just brainstorming - no real ideas...

edit: Turned out to be the problem in the other thread I found. IIRC problems w/ the shutters will throw a code but not the CEL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,041 Posts
Found this in another thread - dealers checklist for overheating for the '13 ST along with some other info from the poster:

1. Verify the customer concern.

2. Visually check the engine coolant level at the degas bottle when the system is cold.

3. Make sure the pressure relief cap is installed correctly.

4. Record any cooling system Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) retrieved. Refer to the PCM DTC chart in this section for DTC descriptions.

NOTE: Take note of any coolant odor or steam coming from cooling system components.

If the system coolant is filled correctly and no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) associated with fail-safe cooling are retrieved, verify the customer concern by operating the engine to duplicate the condition.

5. Visually inspect for obvious signs of any mechanical or electrical damage.

The degas bottle is the large plastic container full of coolant on the left side of the engine.

The PCM is programmed to log overtemp situations. Here are the codes and the descriptions:

P1285 Cylinder Head Overtemperature Condition Sets in the PCM when an engine overheat condition was sensed by the CHT sensor.
P1299 Cylinder Head Overtemperature Protection Active Sets in the PCM when an engine overheat condition was detected by the CHT sensor. A failure mode effects management strategy called fail-safe cooling was activated to cool the engine.

The fail-safe is actually pretty cool. Here is a description:

Fail-Safe Cooling Strategy
Note: Not all vehicles with a cylinder head temperature (CHT) sensor have the fail-safe cooling strategy.

The fail-safe cooling strategy is only activated by the PCM when an overheating condition has been identified. This strategy provides engine temperature control when the cylinder head temperature exceeds certain limits. The cylinder head temperature is measured by the CHT sensor. For additional information about the CHT sensor, refer to Engine Control Components in this section.

A cooling system failure, such as low coolant or coolant loss, could cause an overheating condition. As a result, damage to major engine components could occur. Along with a CHT sensor, the fail-safe cooling strategy is used to prevent damage by allowing air cooling of the engine. This strategy allows the vehicle to be driven safely for a short time with some loss of performance when an overheat condition exists.

Engine temperature is controlled by alternating the number of disabled fuel injectors, allowing all cylinders to cool. When the fuel injectors are disabled, the respective cylinders work as air pumps, and this air is used to cool the cylinders. The more fuel injectors that are disabled, the cooler the engine runs, but the engine has less power.

A wide open throttle (WOT) delay is incorporated if the cylinder head temperature is exceeded during WOT operation. At WOT, the injectors function for a limited amount of time allowing the customer to complete a passing maneuver.

Before injectors are disabled, the fail-safe cooling strategy alerts the customer to a cooling system problem by moving the IPC temperature gauge to the H (hot) zone and setting DTC P1285. Depending on the vehicle, other indicators such as an audible chime or warning lamp, can be used to alert the customer of fail-safe cooling. If overheating continues, the strategy begins to disable the fuel injectors, DTC P1299 is stored in the PCM memory, and a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminates. If the overheating condition continues and a critical temperature is reached, all fuel injectors are turned OFF and the engine is disabled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Have you done a coolant flush or refilled in any way since you've owned it? Make sure you aren't using pure coolant, and it is diluted correctly. It may not be the culprit but it would be worth a shot checking


2015 Focus st2 MM
Stage 3+ suspension and aesthetics.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
392 Posts
Heres a suggestion. Have you verified that indeed you are overheating and its not just an issue with the gauge itself? Im not certain how the ford wires the temp sensor, but typically You have one temp sensor going to the engine control unit, and one for the gauge. If Ford does it like this its a possiblity of a wire intermittenly shorting causing this issue.

Maybe get an IR gun and point it at your thermostat. I would assume if you have a AP to read your temps, those readings come from the engine control unit monitors and not the cluster gauges, so that can be another source to verify if indeed your temperatures are too hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
768 Posts
That ^^^

My question was going to be what are your indications that it's overheating? You did not specify. DanM nailed it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tried a conventional bleed more than once, going to vacuum it and see what happens. Also ordered a new cap for the degas tank to see if maybe the valve isn't operating properly on the stock one.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't have an ap just the procal. Will see what temp it actually is with a ir thermometer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,763 Posts
OK, here are my thoughts. If you are overheating at a standstill but it's fine when moving then it's most likely the fans not working properly. If so, another indication of this would be that the air conditioner would also not be cooling properly. A normal ST would be able to keep the interior cool in any weather. If it was a radiator problem it would get hot when moving. If it was an air pocket situation it would most likely overheat while stationary or moving.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nafsucof

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, here are my thoughts. If you are overheating at a standstill but it's fine when moving then it's most likely the fans not working properly. If so, another indication of this would be that the air conditioner would also not be cooling properly. A normal ST would be able to keep the interior cool in any weather. If it was a radiator problem it would get hot when moving. If it was an air pocket situation it would most likely overheat while stationary or moving.
Replaced the fan already...going to do a compression check see if anything is wonky. Haven't really driven it much lately :(


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Same problem here. 2013 ST 77000kms. No mods. I have the AGS disabled (fuse pulled). The coolant level is good, the pump was replaced, and the dealer finds nothing. It's 30-35C (86-95F) ambient with high humidity and it overheats on city streets if I drive quickly and the oil is up to temp. It's really pissing my wife off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Same problem here. 2013 ST 77000kms. No mods. I have the AGS disabled (fuse pulled). The coolant level is good, the pump was replaced, and the dealer finds nothing. It's 30-35C (86-95F) ambient with high humidity and it overheats on city streets if I drive quickly and the oil is up to temp. It's really pissing my wife off.
Both fans are working with the ac on? Does it overheat with the ac off?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
So I have an update. I was driving aroumd the city in 25C ambient. And the damn thing pegged the water temp gauge. I stopped and used my laser thermometer on the rad intake hose. 251F. Holy ****. I went home, took of the front bumper cover and checked the rads. Both were clean and the fans were spinning full tilt. I shut it off and let it cool. Then I restarted it in my driveway and it went to 3/4 temp at idle. So I called the dealer. Enough of this ****.

I havent tried with the ac off

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
So I have an update. I was driving aroumd the city in 25C ambient. And the damn thing pegged the water temp gauge. I stopped and used my laser thermometer on the rad intake hose. 251F. Holy ****. I went home, took of the front bumper cover and checked the rads. Both were clean and the fans were spinning full tilt. I shut it off and let it cool. Then I restarted it in my driveway and it went to 3/4 temp at idle. So I called the dealer. Enough of this ****.

I havent tried with the ac off

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
Correction. It was the OUTLET to the rad that was measured at 251F

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So I posted back in April about the car overheating with the AC on and sitting in traffic...It is a 2013 75k about 15k on the motor. I haven't driven the car much and have disabled the AGS, installed a new Motorcraft fan assembly, changed the relays, new thermostat and new water pump. You can drive it on the highway and it's perfect no overheating but as soon as the car is up to temp and you hit traffic the gauge slowly climbs to 3/4 maybe once it went 1 needle width above. As soon as you start moving it cools back down. It has never thrown a code. There are no leaks in the system. If the AC is on it will climb much faster once you come to a stop. I'm kind of stumped at this point. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Do you think it could be the radiator?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

this happened to me,
the dealership could not find issue.

there is this thing active grill shutter, which is right in front of radiator. which was not operating(the motor was not opening the shutter to allow freah cold air to coole down the radiator),

i pulled my active shutter **** out,
never had over heating issue again,
its a very useless thing put in the car.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top