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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so this week, I swapped out the stock amp on my '14 ST2 for the AA unit for increased loudness.......installed and it definitely is much louder. Also installed MTW component speakers.....pretty expensive units......in the front.

So now I have waaaaaaaaay more volume BUT the high's are now tinny as hell at anything over 3/4 volume. Equalizer doesn't seem to have the control over stuff as much anymore with this set-up and fading to the rear I loose a lot of clarity. At some frequencies, the new speakers do sound better......................more depth than before but seems at lower frequencies............but the cymbals on a lot of songs irritating the **** out of my ears. No crispness.........goes away when I fade to the rear but kinda deadens the sound.

Whats the fix here guys........this blows. BTW.....got Serius and like the Navigation so gotta stick with the SONY crappy head unit.

Should I put the same MTW speakers in the rear?

WTF?........don't know what to do..........of course, the installer thinks it sounds awesome.
 

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while the AA stock amp has a little bit more power, its still designed to drive the ultra crappy OEM speakers. and real good set of speakers usually needs a whole lot more power than what this little guy puts out.

the fix here is a more powerful amp to properly drive those speakers, which adds in a new complication of interfacing with this system. there are a few good ways to interface with this system, some are easier and cheaper than others. if I were you, I'd check out the threads about the maestro AR or the upcoming DSR1 for the best results, but even a good active LOC would suffice.
 

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Nothing wrong with the stock headunit. problem is the speakers for the most part. just watch my videos and it will be fixed in no time.

OK, so this week, I swapped out the stock amp on my '14 ST2 for the AA unit for increased loudness.......installed and it definitely is much louder. Also installed MTW component speakers.....pretty expensive units......in the front.

So now I have waaaaaaaaay more volume BUT the high's are now tinny as hell at anything over 3/4 volume. Equalizer doesn't seem to have the control over stuff as much anymore with this set-up and fading to the rear I loose a lot of clarity. At some frequencies, the new speakers do sound better......................more depth than before but seems at lower frequencies............but the cymbals on a lot of songs irritating the **** out of my ears. No crispness.........goes away when I fade to the rear but kinda deadens the sound.

Whats the fix here guys........this blows. BTW.....got Serius and like the Navigation so gotta stick with the SONY crappy head unit.

Should I put the same MTW speakers in the rear?

WTF?........don't know what to do..........of course, the installer thinks it sounds awesome.
 

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That amp isn't powerful enough.
 
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That amp isn't powerful enough.
No all the time alignment and aggressive EQ is happening AT the amp. Increasing the power does nothing but make things worse, not at moderate volume but when you crank it up, it cuts bass and cuts treble aggressively.

LOC is a medium option, DSP is the only real option.
 

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No all the time alignment and aggressive EQ is happening AT the amp. Increasing the power does nothing but make things worse, not at moderate volume but when you crank it up, it cuts bass and cuts treble aggressively.

LOC is a medium option, DSP is the only real option.
LOC sucks on our cars. Can't wait to buy the Rockford


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Wow that Maestro device is doing something really amazing. Why does anyone resist going this route? Is anyone else performing this wizardry?

So just trying to understand this stuff. I always thought the DRS1 was going to do what this Maestro thing does. But looking at the DRS1 website I am thinking it is essentially just a very advanced digital signal processor, that goes between the Maestro to the amplifier. I am just curious because it seems the DRS1 is well sought after, is there anything else I am missing?

For those unaware. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1
 

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Wow that Maestro device is doing something really amazing. Why does anyone resist going this route? Is anyone else performing this wizardry?

So just trying to understand this stuff. I always thought the DRS1 was going to do what this Maestro thing does. But looking at the DRS1 website I am thinking it is essentially just a very advanced digital signal processor, that goes between the Maestro to the amplifier. I am just curious because it seems the DRS1 is well sought after, is there anything else I am missing?

For those unaware. DSR1 - 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/ Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module | Rockford Fosgate®
It's the DSP. Its the Maestro. You should just need the DSR1 and an Amp from my understanding.
 

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For the DSR-1 and Audio Control DSP's you need -

1) The Maestro AR
2) The proper Ford Cable
3) Sony Ford Premium Stereo System
4) Standard 5 channel aftermarket amp or 4 channel amp + mono block

Kenwood XRS-600 DSP: You need 1,2,3

Possible configurations *remember everything is done at the amp just like the Sony system the Maestro AR just converts the input signals coming from the HU into a language the amp can understand.

The Sony system is fully active, every speaker has a channel thus 11 channels.

The Kenwood amp only has six channels, so you either need to purchase 2 way passive components (tweeter, woofer and passive crossover) for the front, coaxial or passive components for the rear doors and a decent sub for channels 5/6 bridged as shown in the Kenwood USA install video.

Car Audio 101 = Always upgrade the main speakers, sometimes subwoofer if possible. Since the factory has to build thousands of the same model car it can't afford to put premium speakers in the car without increasing the MSRP.

They get the cheapest speakers possible, especially in non-luxury cars.

The cheapest 2 way components are $60 (JBL 600C), matching coaxials are about $10 less ($50).

For the sub you can get a prefab 10" like the Kenwood for about $200, Pioneer is about the same price. You could also opt for passive Bazooka Tube as 200 watts is plenty for an 8 inch tube to get very loud and you'll have more control over it vs the powered version.

Also the Alpine SBR-S8 box is pretty good for $50 more.

If you do the install yourself, it could be done for just about $1,000 maybe a little less. The DSR-1 overall would be cheaper because you can get a less costly amp like a refurbish Kenwood XR900.5 for $249 @Crutchfield

You would save maybe $50 doing that.
 

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Wow that Maestro device is doing something really amazing. Why does anyone resist going this route? Is anyone else performing this wizardry?
kinda, but not really to this point or level. Maestro, PAC and Metra make basically the opposite where they have modules to replace the radio and interface with OEM amps and some can even do the data controls. Maestro is just ahead of the game since the Idatalink programmers have been tearing into the car's data bus for years with their remote start bypasses and the RR. as for why a lot of companies are not doing the same thing, its because the cost to reverse engineer the data commands just is not worth the investment. they want to build universal stuff that will work on all cars, not just a few higher optioned cars like for and Chrysler. its so much easier when you can just partner with Maestro and let their data guys do all the hard work while you just build in compatibly since most of the main brands have already been working on them with their headunit departments. also, they then dont have to deal with changes and keeping up with updates (which a lot of aftermarket audio companies already have a hard time doing)

I always thought the DRS1 was going to do what this Maestro thing does. But looking at the DRS1 website I am thinking it is essentially just a very advanced digital signal processor, that goes between the Maestro to the amplifier. I am just curious because it seems the DRS1 is well sought after, is there anything else I am missing?
its not just a very advanced DSP, the DSR-1 is a two part device. first its got the main functionality of Rockford's $600 3.Sixety DSP built into one half, and the $100 Maestro AR built in to the same device. with what you are getting, it really is a no brainer. it alone with a standard multi-channel amp is going to cost a lot less than a AR + a stand alone DSP and a multi-channel amp, or a AR + a multi-channel amp with a DSP built in.

For the DSR-1 and Audio Control DSP's you need -

1) The Maestro AR
2) The proper Ford Cable
3) Sony Ford Premium Stereo System
4) Standard 5 channel aftermarket amp or 4 channel amp + mono block
almost.

the DSR-1 also IS the Maestro AR, the Maestro's T harnesses will plug directly into the DSR-1!
 

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I'm newish to this site so I apologize if I post this in the wrong place, but the subject seems similar and the thread looks fresh.

My 2013 st3 focus did not have a subwoofer in it when I bought it. I got the factory replacement from eBay and it bolted in and plugged in ok. It makes almost no difference in sound quality and is really only audible if you put your ear to it.

I pulled the sub from the car and tested it in another car and it is fine. I put it back in the focus. Then i put a line converter on the sub wires from the Sony amp and and my directed 600d amp with the gain maxed produced almost no sound. After that, with no line converter and the wires going directly to the rca Jacks everything works as it should. Gain only needed to be near 1/8 to 1/4 and it was plenty. This cannot be normal. The amp must be damaged. The output is extremely low. As far as I can tell there was never any after market stuff hooked up. Besides the missing subwoofer the car seems perfect and everything works as id expect.

Will I burn up an amp wiring the sub output directly into rca jacks on my amp? I know it seems crazy and I was hesitant to do it for my little test as it is.
 

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www.youtube.com/jasongeorgievski
I'm newish to this site so I apologize if I post this in the wrong place, but the subject seems similar and the thread looks fresh.

My 2013 st3 focus did not have a subwoofer in it when I bought it. I got the factory replacement from eBay and it bolted in and plugged in ok. It makes almost no difference in sound quality and is really only audible if you put your ear to it.

I pulled the sub from the car and tested it in another car and it is fine. I put it back in the focus. Then i put a line converter on the sub wires from the Sony amp and and my directed 600d amp with the gain maxed produced almost no sound. After that, with no line converter and the wires going directly to the rca Jacks everything works as it should. Gain only needed to be near 1/8 to 1/4 and it was plenty. This cannot be normal. The amp must be damaged. The output is extremely low. As far as I can tell there was never any after market stuff hooked up. Besides the missing subwoofer the car seems perfect and everything works as id expect.

Will I burn up an amp wiring the sub output directly into rca jacks on my amp? I know it seems crazy and I was hesitant to do it for my little test as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
For the DSR-1 and Audio Control DSP's you need -

1) The Maestro AR
2) The proper Ford Cable
3) Sony Ford Premium Stereo System
4) Standard 5 channel aftermarket amp or 4 channel amp + mono block

Kenwood XRS-600 DSP: You need 1,2,3

Possible configurations *remember everything is done at the amp just like the Sony system the Maestro AR just converts the input signals coming from the HU into a language the amp can understand.

The Sony system is fully active, every speaker has a channel thus 11 channels.

The Kenwood amp only has six channels, so you either need to purchase 2 way passive components (tweeter, woofer and passive crossover) for the front, coaxial or passive components for the rear doors and a decent sub for channels 5/6 bridged as shown in the Kenwood USA install video.

Car Audio 101 = Always upgrade the main speakers, sometimes subwoofer if possible. Since the factory has to build thousands of the same model car it can't afford to put premium speakers in the car without increasing the MSRP.

They get the cheapest speakers possible, especially in non-luxury cars.

The cheapest 2 way components are $60 (JBL 600C), matching coaxials are about $10 less ($50).

For the sub you can get a prefab 10" like the Kenwood for about $200, Pioneer is about the same price. You could also opt for passive Bazooka Tube as 200 watts is plenty for an 8 inch tube to get very loud and you'll have more control over it vs the powered version.

Also the Alpine SBR-S8 box is pretty good for $50 more.

If you do the install yourself, it could be done for just about $1,000 maybe a little less. The DSR-1 overall would be cheaper because you can get a less costly amp like a refurbish Kenwood XR900.5 for $249 @Crutchfield

You would save maybe $50 doing that.


So if I get the Kenwood unit and have a car sound place install, this will improve my sound? Again......I swapped out the original amp with the AA Taurus amp and upgraded the front door speakers. I just cant believe after putting in these quality component speakers, the high's sound like its out of a '74 stock Pinto stereo, but especially at high volume. Flat and tinny as all hell. When I fade to the rear, the harshness goes away but I lose volume and some level of depth in sound. This is maddening

So......also......seems Id have to upgrade the rear door speakers at a minimum ( fronts are MTW component.....think that's the brand ). What is recommended for the rear doors?

So does the Kenwood unit interface with the Sony amp?

Sorry..........35 years ago, I installed car stereo's about twice a year with ease........now you need a PHd in this stuff.
 

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So if I get the Kenwood unit and have a car sound place install, this will improve my sound? Again......I swapped out the original amp with the AA Taurus amp and upgraded the front door speakers. I just cant believe after putting in these quality component speakers, the high's sound like its out of a '74 stock Pinto stereo, but especially at high volume. Flat and tinny as all hell. When I fade to the rear, the harshness goes away but I lose volume and some level of depth in sound. This is maddening
I don't know what EQ profile is in the Sony amp for the Taurus. This is why such upgrades are unwise, the Taurus is a completely different car.

The Kenwood XRS600-DSP is a complete solution. All you need is the Maestro AR, Ford Cable and that's it. I do recommend getting a better sub/box because the stock sub is pitiful and most aftermarket subs require more internal space than the stock sub box provides. If you invert the sub (basket facing out) and pack it with poly fiberfill (sleeping bag, pillow stuffing easily found at craft stores) you might overcome the too small enclosure with power and control that the DSP gives you.

A competent car audio shop should be able to install the amp in the stock location of the Sony amp and mount the Maestro in about 90 mins or less. They will have to run a power cable out to the battery because it is a 600 watt amp, almost double the power of the factory amp.

Oh the sound quality will MASSIVELY improve, no comparison, especially at high volume.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't know what EQ profile is in the Sony amp for the Taurus. This is why such upgrades are unwise, the Taurus is a completely different car.

The Kenwood XRS600-DSP is a complete solution. All you need is the Maestro AR, Ford Cable and that's it. I do recommend getting a better sub/box because the stock sub is pitiful and most aftermarket subs require more internal space than the stock sub box provides. If you invert the sub (basket facing out) and pack it with poly fiberfill (sleeping bag, pillow stuffing easily found at craft stores) you might overcome the too small enclosure with power and control that the DSP gives you.

A competent car audio shop should be able to install the amp in the stock location of the Sony amp and mount the Maestro in about 90 mins or less. They will have to run a power cable out to the battery because it is a 600 watt amp, almost double the power of the factory amp.

Oh the sound quality will MASSIVELY improve, no comparison, especially at high volume.
Dang my friend.......cant thank you enough for simplifying this for me!! Just one more question.......will the shop know about this Ford cable? Just wondering how to get the right one and where to get it..........
 

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yes they will know about the cable if they sell the Maestro AR, with out one of the three cables, it cant be used. they will have the harnesses for it.

if you are getting the parts and taking it somewhere then you make sure you order the correct Ford version (HRN-AR-FO2)
 

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Dang my friend.......cant thank you enough for simplifying this for me!! Just one more question.......will the shop know about this Ford cable? Just wondering how to get the right one and where to get it..........
iDatalink - Maestro - Dealer network

Crutchfield also sells the amp, the interface and the correct cable (AR-F02)

https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_113X...6DSP.html?search=kenwood_xrs_600_dsp&skipvs=T

Click the "I" and it will list the interface and cable you need for the Focus, that is if you put your car in there. The interface is $99 and the cable is $40
 
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