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Discussion Starter #221
I wish I knew. this motor came from a junkyard and the fusion that had it didn’t have the mileage recorded on it
 

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Discussion Starter #222
OK guys sorry for the lack of updates. Life has been busy for me at the moment.

I have pictures of the tear down too! I will post those at another time for now here is what I am doing with the motor.

For now I am shooting for 650-700whp. My 2.0 block is getting machined and possibly sleeved if needed. Its going to be a rare 2.4 build. I will be making the bottom and top as strong as I can. I beam rods and 2816 extreme duty pistons. Stage 3 cams 84lbs valve springs. Also I will be using the valves out of the 2.3 MS3 as they are solid and over sized. The crank will have the balance sprocket machined off and down to keep that as light as I can. Also scored a brand new set of Boomba Racings full pulley kit. I will be getting a Mfactory diff and full 1-6 gear syncros for the trans. Should not be to hard to do myself. The clutch and fly wheel will be a SPEC Stage 3+ and Aluminum flywheel. Maybe beefier axles too. I am still deciding on what fuel pumps I want to run but it should not be to hard to rig that up either! I am just running out of fuses to use lol.

That should be the short list of everything. I will definitely be going into more detail as I do it.

Also the big surprise will be that when I am done with the motor and such I will be looking at an rear sub frame from an RS. That and a few other changes back there will allow me to run an AWD setup. All of the research that I have done is pointing that it can be done in a very affordable way. The most expensive part will be the RS trans and rear sub frame. Gas tank is not much if I can find a wreaked one. Cool thing is that I can take syncros and such and swap them into the new trans as well. But this is way further down the road.
 

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Excited for you!! It will be fun to follow you through to the end of your build...it’ll be great!!
 
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Really looking forward to your 600hp AWD pre-facelift monster!
A forum member in the German forum did the same conversion to his pre-facelift estate. Or least he started with it and got to the point where he had installed all the rear-axle parts of the RS. Haven't heard from him in a while, so I don't know if he's now up and running or if his project went down the drain.
 

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Well thats quite the list of stuff.

Geez.

Nice find on the pulleys. I havnt seen a set in forever. Wouldnt mind getting a set if I could find them.

Awd swap, geez. Thats something I dont want to fux with. I plan on switching platforms at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #227
Well thats quite the list of stuff.

Geez.

Nice find on the pulleys. I havnt seen a set in forever. Wouldnt mind getting a set if I could find them.

Awd swap, geez. Thats something I dont want to fux with. I plan on switching platforms at that point.
Like I said it should be quite easy to do with very little fab lol or I wouldn’t even have considered it. I might push more power once I do the swap though.
 

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Like I said it should be quite easy to do with very little fab lol or I wouldn’t even have considered it. I might push more power once I do the swap though.
Whered you get dem pullies, fool
 
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Discussion Starter #229
Whered you get dem pullies, fool
I was actually looking on Facebook of all places after I sold the old turbo set up there. Found it just scrolling threw. The guy bought them and forgot about them and sold his car. Luckily they where red too
 

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Discussion Starter #230
cant wait to see some videos of this in action. Would love to see how this car would pull above 100mph :)
My old setup pulled like a train past 100. I can’t wait to see how this does. Don’t worry it will be done in Mexico.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Alright guys parts have been coming in. Just about ready to drop it off at a machine shop. I have a bunch of pictures I want to share of everything.
To start here Is the removal of the engine and trans as one unit. To be honest it was no where near as hard as I thought it would be to remove.
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I decided to pull it from the front and take everything out with it. Only took about 4-5 hours too get it out. Just be smart and don't to forget to label all off the connections and grounding points. taking a few pictures to remind you where things go isn't a bad idea either.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Here are a few pictures of tearing down the motor. That was not to hard to do either. Just took my time and made sure to save and label everything I took out . Every bolt bracket and nut. I tried to make it idiot proof lol. Just remember when looking at these this motor is old. Its a donner from a early model fusion and as soon as it was put it was seeing 450WHP for years.

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Removing the harness and Ecu was the first thing. Much easier to access everything once you get that out of the way.



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Removed the OEM intake manifold and to my surprise I had a little meth leak. Also not pictured but the intake is much better looking now are the intake valves. All of the carbon and gunk is gone from the valves.



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Working in the backside of the motor getting the turbo and exhaust collector was the next main goal. Came off super easy.


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Now the next step that I took was the valve cover. Surprising to me it was hard to get off. Also another surprise to me is that the bolts that hold the valve cover on do not come out they just flop around in the valve cover when they are loose. Everything seemed very clean on the cams and head and such. Also be careful taking this off. You don't want to damage anything on the topside.


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Before I moved further I wanted to get the big trans out of the way. Thing is much much heavier than I expected it to be. Separating the trans from the block was a tad difficult but once off the pressure plate, clutch, and the Flywheel came right out. Now everything is the OEM from when I first purchased the car in May of 2014. I was shocked that the clutch was still holding all the power I was throwing at it. It was worn down enough that Id say it would have had another 10-15 thousand miles on it at most. The flywheel and the pressure plate are in excellent condition as well for the almost 120,000 miles of hard driving they have been put threw.


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Discussion Starter #233
PVC breather plate removed and not to bad if you are asking me. Definitely getting an upgrade though.


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Crank bolt came out next. This was not hard to do at all with my impact. Just took a few extra seconds of impacting

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Oil pan and Balance shaft came off next. Had a good bit of oil stored in the balance shaft. Made for a nice surprise lol. Thing is heavy. I am happy this will not going back into the motor.


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Timing cover came off next.


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After working on the rest of the timing chain and oil chain crap I went ahead and started to remove the cams out of the head. Not to complex just make sure to loosen smartly here. Loosen everything evenly. Remember some of the cam lobs are still pushing down on the springs.


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Discussion Starter #234
Head came off no problem. Head gasket was in good condition. Pistons where starting to get less dark with all the Water-Meth doing its thing. I love seeing results like this. Also those white specs are just parts of head gasket coming apart when I pulled the heard off.

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It is always nice when the wife helps you with any project. Especially when it is something that you are passionate about. She was really having fun zipping the main bolts out.

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Got the Girdle removed and boy was that thing a complete pain in the *** to remove. That thing was really stuck on there. Had to get the rubber hammer out and work on it for about half an hour before it would finally release itself.

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Discussion Starter #235
Just had to post up my new Boomba Racing pulley kit that I found. OEM pulleys are 6.504lbs and these sexy new ones only weigh 2.822lbs!!!

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Getting everything cleaned up for the machine shop. The more I do the less he has todo and the less I pay! I already got the oil pan super clean as well as the timing cover which is not pictured deep cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
So guys I will be posting more up up the build soon. I have the Rods, Pistons, Crank and other major components in and ready for the machine shop. I will be posting in depth about those soon after I get the pictures off of my phone. After the motor is put back together I will tackle the trans. Hopefully everything there is good in there. All syncros and a Mfactory LSD will be going in with a Stage 3+ SPEC Clutch and there Aluminium Flywheel. I hope everyone is being safe and is healthy in this time of uncertainty with COVID-19 ravaging the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #237
Out and away with the old GTX2867R adn 38 MM Wastegate. It served the car well and was a fantastic turbo. It never failed even after all of the miles and abuse that it has seen with myself and the old owner before me. It is getting replaced by a PTE6062 Turbo with a 40MM Tial Wastegate. Much bigger turbo but the motor being a 2.4 build with Stage 3 Cams and over sized valves. I should see 400 or so WHP at around 32-3500RPM. Drivability for street driving will still be good. It won't punch hard at first like the GTX2867 did at 3500, but by around 5000-5500 it will be at full power and pull like a train to 8000-8200 RPM. The car will be fast. Much faster than it was.

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Manley I-Beam Rods will be used. They are much bigger than the OEM things. These should hold up to almost anything that I throw at them.

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88MM Manley 2618 Extreme Duty Pistons. I went ahead and got an oversized bore it is necessary to reach the 2.4 engine size and to get a fresh round bore. They are surprising light even compared to the smaller OEM ones.

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Discussion Starter #238
Got the 2.3 Crank shaft. It came with two holes in the box but after opening it up and inspecting it everything seemed in great shape. I mean the FedEx guys would really have to try a damage this bad boy.

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Even came with Ford Performance stickers. It really looks great especially for an OEM forged crank. We will be seeing how the balance is when I take everything to the machine shop.

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Here is the OEM cast crank. You can tell mainly by the casting line and the sound each make when you tap them with a metal tool. The oil passage ways are much smaller in the 2.0 than the 2.3. I haven't weighed them but the 2.3 also feels a few pounds lighter.

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2.3 crank. You can clearly see the thicker lines from the forging process.

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You can actually see that the 2.3 crank has a significantly bigger crank radius as to where the extra .3 liters come from. You can also see the slim construction compared to the 2.0 which looks much more boxy. The oil passage ways are also very clear in this picture. Anyway I went ahead and knocked the Balance shaft timing gears off as they are not needed and I did not want the oil to be wicked up by it. Practiced on the 2.0 crank first. Was very very easy todo.

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Discussion Starter #239
Massive speed oil pan baffle is in. I had to drill a new tap in the hole in the oil pan. My tap tool decided to break off in the bolt hole. Also since I had the timing cover off I decided to tap and put a Helicoil where the PSM bolts to the motor to hold it up. It only ever had 2 studs as the middle hole was stripped out when I got this block long ago. So I will be able to pound my car now feeling a little safer that something wont give out. That is about as far as I can update for now until I get more things in. There are a few items that are in shipping and a few more that will need ordered. But everything is coming together nicely and the project is on time! If anyone has any advice please give it to me as you read threw everything.


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Discussion Starter #240
Alright guys got the new head ordered and the gasket set. Oem water pump and oil pump as well as the chains. Radium PVC cover and went ahead and ordered the Damond big throttle body. Surprisingly there are step colder Ruthenium spark plugs so got those too. Talked to Alex from Stratifeld and he said to start with step colder and if need be go two step colder but that shouldn’t have to happen especially with the WMI.
 
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