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2013 Ford Focus ST3 (Stock) 184500kms/114000miles
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, all sorry for all the questions this week...

I'm currently looking to add a little bit of induction/turbo sound to my 2013 Focus ST (I do already have a K&N drop-in), It is a stock car with 190k km/118k miles. However, I don't want to damage my turbo with these after-market parts and want to keep the reliability as it's my daily college car. I'm currently looking at a Depo intake pipe or AF dynamics CAI vs a Turbo smart or GFB VTA BOV (will route to the true vacuum via my cobb symposer delete). If I go the intake route since I'm in Canada it's going to cost me around 325$ or more with shipping and customs. However, I can get a TS/GFB BOV for around 185$. I'm only getting one since I'm on a budget. I'm leaning more toward the BOV route with the GFB VTA since it's apparently a high-quality part. What are your opinions?

Will any of the Intake or BOV routes affect my reliability or cause turbo harm? That's my main concern.

Thanks All
 

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You already have a better filter, the rest of the intake isn't going to give you any performance. If you want extra induction noises, remove airbox lid or your cowling by the wipers.

BOV's will require periodic maintenance, so get in the habit of cleaning and lubing it when you do your oil changes (although I bet most don't bother doing this regularly and rarely do they cause issues.) The piston just needs to be able to freely move to work, if you drive on dusty/gravel roads, more important to clean and lube

Neither mods will cause a reliability issue. The stock recirc valve has been known to fail even, so consider it an upgrade 馃槈
 

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2014 ST3. Garrett GTX2860R Gen 2.
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As mentioned above, blow off valves get dirty and stick. You'll lose boost when this happens. Therefore it is not good mod for reliability. However, the factory bypass valve is common to tear and cause boost loss as well. Your best move for reliability is to replace the stock BPV with an aftermarket BPV. Ford racing, Mountune, Turbosmart plumb-back, etc.

Another reliability mod is the FMIC. Cooler charge temps are safer on the engine.

So my choice is an aftermarket bypass valve, not a blow off valve.

In your multitude of threads, you seem to be extremely concerned with reliability. You shouldn't be doing autocross or any other severe-duty events if you are concerned about wear and tear.
 

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I did my intake with generic 3鈥 silicone hoses and some aluminum couplings to keep the under hood heat out, compared to a full aluminum unit. I invested less than $60 on it. With the RS air box cover it really sound business.
 

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A turbosmart BOV is louder than the oem bov on our cars. So that'll probably give you the turbo noise your looking for. I don't see the point in added a CAI with the stock turbo... No power gain and they're not cheap. Some ppl either take the lid off their intake box or add the RS airbox cover which will add a little extra sound as well. Just depends on your preference honestly
 

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2013 Ford Focus ST3 (Stock) 184500kms/114000miles
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the GFB DVX and it gives me as much whooshy goodness as I can handle. When i want to quiet it down, I move the lever. Best of both worlds and a quality part. I highly recommend it.
Do you need to route to true vacuum? How do you service it? Any reliability issues?
 

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Do you need to route to true vacuum? How do you service it? Any reliability issues?
I don't have a VTA (Vent To Atmosphere) valve. I have the Mountune Recirc valve (which is a sealed, high quality version of what came from the factory) and it is quiet. Understand that this valve is located near the passenger side front wheel well / tire and is in constant contact with whatever is on the roads where you live. If you are in an area that has a lot of salt and sand on the roads during winter- I'd imagine that any VTA BOV will need a lot more maintenance than one installed in an area like Southern California.

There may not be a maintenance-free VTA option, in your application.
 

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Do you need to route to true vacuum? How do you service it? Any reliability issues?
You can but GFB says to use the solenoid as it is more responsive which is what I've done. You can route to true vacuum if you choose to. Other than the screws working loose post-install (which was my mistake for not throwing on a bit of blue Loc-Tite), I haven't had any issues. No maintenance required AIUI.
From the install pages:
"The only maintenance that may be required is the occasional cleaning of carbon deposits on the piston that
result from dried oil vapour in the engine鈥檚 inlet tract. This varies from car to car, and in most cases cleaning
may never be required, whilst others may need to be cleaned more regularly basis. It is easy to determine
if the valve needs cleaning by visual inspection of the piston for black carbon build-up, or if you notice the
sound of the valve changing over time (e.g. slow response time, intermittent operation)."

Full manual: https://app.gfb.com.au/storage/uploads/1655385071_T9654_Instructions.pdf
 

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2013 Ford Focus ST3 (Stock) 184500kms/114000miles
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can but GFB says to use the solenoid as it is more responsive which is what I've done. You can route to true vacuum if you choose to. Other than the screws working loose post-install (which was my mistake for not throwing on a bit of blue Loc-Tite), I haven't had any issues. No maintenance required AIUI.
From the install pages:
"The only maintenance that may be required is the occasional cleaning of carbon deposits on the piston that
result from dried oil vapour in the engine鈥檚 inlet tract. This varies from car to car, and in most cases cleaning
may never be required, whilst others may need to be cleaned more regularly basis. It is easy to determine
if the valve needs cleaning by visual inspection of the piston for black carbon build-up, or if you notice the
sound of the valve changing over time (e.g. slow response time, intermittent operation)."

Full manual: https://app.gfb.com.au/storage/uploads/1655385071_T9654_Instructions.pdf
Thanks, have any sound clips? How does it sound?
 

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2013 Ford Focus ST3 (Stock) 184500kms/114000miles
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As mentioned above, blow off valves get dirty and stick. You'll lose boost when this happens. Therefore it is not good mod for reliability. However, the factory bypass valve is common to tear and cause boost loss as well. Your best move for reliability is to replace the stock BPV with an aftermarket BPV. Ford racing, Mountune, Turbosmart plumb-back, etc.

Another reliability mod is the FMIC. Cooler charge temps are safer on the engine.

So my choice is an aftermarket bypass valve, not a blow off valve.

In your multitude of threads, you seem to be extremely concerned with reliability. You shouldn't be doing autocross or any other severe-duty events if you are concerned about wear and tear.
I see some DVs cause turbo flutter/surge. Isn't this bad?
 

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Thanks, have any sound clips? How does it sound?
On full recirc it is only mildly louder than stock. Full VTA is full on Fast & the Furious material. At about 25-30% open I got satisfying whooshy noises that were clearly audible from the cabin with the windows up. I'm running stock airbox, lid on, Cobb filter and VT Big Mouth FWIW. I'll throw together a quick video at the same time I install my TB torque Gusset over the holidays.

Flutter, while sounding cool means your turbo is stalling, and is why GFB recommends using the solenoid. I haven't had any issues with flutter or surge.
 

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2013 Ford Focus ST3 (Stock) 184500kms/114000miles
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
On full recirc it is only mildly louder than stock. Full VTA is full on Fast & the Furious material. At about 25-30% open I got satisfying whooshy noises that were clearly audible from the cabin with the windows up. I'm running stock airbox, lid on, Cobb filter and VT Big Mouth FWIW. I'll throw together a quick video at the same time I install my TB torque Gusset over the holidays.

Flutter, while sounding cool means your turbo is stalling, and is why GFB recommends using the solenoid. I haven't had any issues with flutter or surge.
Did you find it ever vented under boost, at idle or under normal driving/cruising?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nope. Other than the boost codes from it the mounting screws being loose (mentioned that above) it works like a charm.
Sorry for the dozens of questions, but what rpm does if let off. I don't really want a bov that goes at like 2k rpm or anything. Also does the adjustment from 100% - 0 help with when the bov vents?
 

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I have the turboSmart 50/50 blow off valve and my buddy has an STI He says it's pretty loud. Looking he can hear it after I've already gone around to the corner and I'm taking off from another stop. I have it running off through vacuum from my symposer delete with the spring that comes with it set at its lowest setting so The cap is just covering the o-ring. It can easily go off at 2000 RPM. It's based on differences in boost and vacuum. If you're driving normal through town it can go off at every shift. But I also have it set at the set lightest setting. It still goes off way less than when hooked up to the solenoid. It goes off all the time. I live in New York so I get winters. The first year after I installed it I had to remove it from the car and beat the piston out of the aluminum housing with a hammer twice in one winter. So make sure you keep it clean and oiled. For reliability I would go with a bypass valve You should still hear a little bit more noise come through your intake with the open-ended filter and lid removed or RS lid which is what I have.
 

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I would just get the mountune bpv when its on sale and a ebay RS style lid for $30 and you'll be good to go..(y)

Is your drop in an open end filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have the turboSmart 50/50 blow off valve and my buddy has an STI He says it's pretty loud. Looking he can hear it after I've already gone around to the corner and I'm taking off from another stop. I have it running off through vacuum from my symposer delete with the spring that comes with it set at its lowest setting so The cap is just covering the o-ring. It can easily go off at 2000 RPM. It's based on differences in boost and vacuum. If you're driving normal through town it can go off at every shift. But I also have it set at the set lightest setting. It still goes off way less than when hooked up to the solenoid. It goes off all the time. I live in New York so I get winters. The first year after I installed it I had to remove it from the car and beat the piston out of the aluminum housing with a hammer twice in one winter. So make sure you keep it clean and oiled. For reliability I would go with a bypass valve You should still hear a little bit more noise come through your intake with the open-ended filter and lid removed or RS lid which is what I have.
I'd be taking my bov off during the winter anyways.
 
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