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Hey everyone,

I recently replaced all four brake pads on the idea that it would hold me over until I decide to actually upgrade and I'm thinking the time is now. Just for some info, I don't track my car at all but I do drive the car spiritedly on the highway quite often so I'm not looking for the best of the best, but definitely above average and above stock. Right now I'm on old rotors and kinda ****ty brake pads so I'm looking to upgrade both. I've gotten a few recommendations for Power Stop's K6350 Z23 package which comes with drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. About $300 for both the fronts and rears. Brakes are one of the areas where I don't really know a whole lot so I wanted some opinions before I go and buy anything. Can anyone vouch for or against the Power Stop package? I'm trying to keep the cost below $350-400 so if anyone has any other suggestions that fall into my price range, feel free to let me know.

Also, I'm pretty sure the car's still on the stock brake fluid so does anyone have any recommendations for better brake fluid?
 

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Do not buy drilled rotors. I am sure I will not be the only one telling you this. They like to crack around the drill holes and really offer no advantage other than looking cool. Anyone who knows anything about cars will likely not think they look cool since they are known to fail (my personal opinion, but I am sure I am not alone). Failure seems to be more common for cheaper drilled rotors. While I have no experience with the Power Stop setup, the pricing leads me to believe that it is a cheap setup that may eventually fail. There are a ton of articles and videos online about it (Engineering Explained has a pretty good one).

A few weeks ago I upgraded to EBC Sport rotors (dimpled and slotted) and Hawk HPS pads. So far I am extremely happy with the feel and reduced dust from the setup. There is some additional brake noise and even air noise when not braking that is worth mentioning. The noise does not bother me, but I know some people want/expect a silent setup. The rotors are coated with rust proofing that prevents the non-braking surfaces on the rotor from rusting (which looks nice). This setup would be slightly outside the price range you are targeting.

For your desired budget, I would probably buy original equipment rotors with a nice set of brake pads. Hawk HPS seems to be a favorite around here and I am happy with them.
 

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No need to go drilled for rotors - blanks are great as long as they have proper ventilation. Additionally, nothing wrong with stock pads if you don't care about dust and Ford has a hell of a deal on them. If you want slightly less dust and a pad that is less susceptible to fade (not sure if you're even experiencing fade right now), I'd have to agree with @TS13FST on the Hawk HPS pads and some permatex extreme brake lube. Lastly, make sure those piston seals are clean and your brake fluid is fresh/bled to ensure maximum stopping power.

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Get yourself some regular brake rotors from Advance Auto Parts or Autozone. Ford brake fluid is actually pretty good for the street you can use the synthetic Prestone or Valvoline as well. I think for a stock car the factory pads work damn good. If you just have to have another brand, Hawk HPS will work great.
 
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i have ECB yellow, and stock rotors. and it is improvement to stock. and i also do not track the car.
 

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Really depends on what you are willing to put up with too. Running HP+ Pads on the street as I hate the unpredictability of the stock brakes (pedal feel changes drastically when cold vs stupid pads catching fire and no pedal feel) the HP+'s are very predicable with a very linear pedal feel, press the brakes a little, get a little braking press harder get more, vs the stocks look at the brake pedal and have your head go through the windshield (yes I really dont like the stock brakes) My point though is your choices are going to be limited by what you are looking for, how much noise you are willing to tolerate (HP+ for example is incredibly noisy but brake feel is the same when hot or cold) Just something to think about, brake dust might be a concern too. If your not tracking the car, see if you can find some local st owners with different brake setups and go for a drive with them. As others have said if your not going to by high end, skip the drilled rotors they will only cause you misery. My 2 hungover cents.
 

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Remember, tires stop your car. Not your brakes. Most any modern braking system from a base honda civic to a luxury car can lock up the tires. The tires ultimately are what is touching the ground and stop the car. If the tires cant grip, the car wont stop. No matter what pad you have installed.

So you want to improve braking, get the stickiest tire you can afford for the weather conditions in your area.

You want to improve other aspects of braking like more consistent performance after sustained braking, change your pads to "performance," pads. Not going to get into the debate of pad options, too many subjective opinions with no real consensus.

Rotors are not going to help you. Get the cheapest rotors you want. Though if you can centric premium's with the painted center hat, do at least those. That would be the bare minimum IMO.

Fluid is not needed out of the gate, other than for your yearly maintenance rituals.
 

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Ford sells their rotors for the ST for a very competetive price - my 2015's front rotors sell for $47 each, and come with the standard cold galvanizing to keep corrosion down. And no, for most application drilled and/or slotted rotors offer no advantage. If you haven't driven slotted rotors before, the feel is a bit different, some people don't like it at all.

I did switch the fronts to the Powerstop ceramics this weekend from the stock pads since the wife complained about how grabby the front brakes are when they are cold. I have no complaints about brake fade or anything else with the powerstops, so they're pretty good in my book.
 

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You can have these centrics for the price of shipping. Only about 5,000 miles on them... Custom slotted! JyJdzD1.jpg
 
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^I like the extreme cooling slot. That should cost extra.
 

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I want to add to everyone saying that drilled and slotted are not needed. Go through the paddock at an IMSA race or F1. I'll bet my savings young will not see a drilled rotor and it's rare to see slotted. Why? These create stress points on the rotor increasing the chance of failure. Also they really don't add to braking force. The two best things to help you stop are pads with a higher coefficient and tires. Even the stock brake setup will exceed the capacity of the tires to grip though they may lack in feedback compared to high end aftermarket brakes.


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I want to add to everyone saying that drilled and slotted are not needed. Go through the paddock at an IMSA race or F1. I'll bet my savings young will not see a drilled rotor and it's rare to see slotted. Why? These create stress points on the rotor increasing the chance of failure. Also they really don't add to braking force. The two best things to help you stop are pads with a higher coefficient and tires. Even the stock brake setup will exceed the capacity of the tires to grip though they may lack in feedback compared to high end aftermarket brakes.


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IMSA and F1 are using Carbon brakes. Not exactly in the same category, when two rotors costs what a used Focus ST costs. :lol:
They (holes/slots) have their purpose, and also have proper manufacturing techniques. I think there was a deluge of crap stuff a few years back, but has largely gone away.

But yes, tires are KEY
 
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