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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I just replaced the brake pads as I was hearing a loud scraping noise from the wheel areas primarily the rear brakes. It was a ****ty brake pad noise, but there was also noise before I put in the new pads which was a almost plastic scraping noise when I was nearly at a full stop (E.G crappy brake pad noise from pads while braking from 50kmph-10kmph and then plastic scraping noise from 10kmph-0) I believe this plastic noise was coming from the pads but is still present now that I changed them. There is no parts of the body of the car whatsoever touching the ground and all bolts seem to be screwed in properly.

Things I have noticed
  • Brake rotors have created a lip at the top of the rotor due to wear( dont know if this is making the noise)
  • Right rear caliper is making excess metal shavings.

What are your thoughts?
Thanks.
 

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Changing pads and sometimes you don’t realize you push on them, stupid stuff like that, they are relatively thin metal and don’t take much to move.
 

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Also the lip could be created by uneven pressure on the pads or sometimes a microscopic rock will get between the pads and rotors and cause I never wear and the only way to fix is to remove pads and clean the rotor surface and the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also the lip could be created by uneven pressure on the pads or sometimes a microscopic rock will get between the pads and rotors and cause I never wear and the only way to fix is to remove pads and clean the rotor surface and the pads.
Yeah I just changed the pads and didn't see any anomalies ie rocks etc.. Im going to check it soon because it is making excess metal shavings noticeably and I've only driven it once since the new pads are in which was yesterday..
 

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Hi,


Things I have noticed
  • Brake rotors have created a lip at the top of the rotor due to wear( dont know if this is making the noise)
  • Right rear caliper is making excess metal shavings.
What are your thoughts?
Thanks.
Where are the metal shavings coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Where are the metal shavings coming from?
I HAVE DISCOVERED IT. The noise was because before I had even changed the pads, the inside face of the rear driver side rotor was completely destroyed. I.e it was like sand paper ( probably due to a rock stick between the old pad and the rotor. Therefore when I put the new pads in, the surface of the pads was grinding up against a very rough rotor making a very bad noise.

NOTE; when you change your pads, be sure to check the inside of the rotor to check for any anomalies so you dont think your brakes are broken like mine.

Thanks.
 

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I HAVE DISCOVERED IT. The noise was because before I had even changed the pads, the inside face of the rear driver side rotor was completely destroyed. I.e it was like sand paper ( probably due to a rock stick between the old pad and the rotor. Therefore when I put the new pads in, the surface of the pads was grinding up against a very rough rotor making a very bad noise.

NOTE; when you change your pads, be sure to check the inside of the rotor to check for any anomalies so you dont think your brakes are broken like mine.

Thanks.
So you changed pads and did not machine or replace the rotors? Your pads are not going to last very long and your braking is going to be less than ideal.
 

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So you changed pads and did not machine or replace the rotors? Your pads are not going to last very long and your braking is going to be less than ideal.
Not if the rotors are worn normally, new pads will bed in and work just fine. If the rotors have deep grooves/uneven wear, then yes they should be turned or changed.
 

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Not if the rotors are worn normally, new pads will bed in and work just fine. If the rotors have deep grooves/uneven wear, then yes they should be turned or changed.
Why would you use new pads on "worn" rotors? New pads should be mated to a clean new surface for optimum wear.
 

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I disagree ... if the pads display even wear there is little reason to replace IF

1) new pads are not 'larger' than what you take off and impact any LIP (very unusual)

2) rotors are below minimum thickness which is often stamped into the rotor face.

I USUALLY go two sets of pads for one set of rotors on my daily driver road car ....

AND IMO today

1) rotors should NOT be machined or 'resurfaced' .... rotors are not built 'over thick' today as they were in years past. If you 'skim' a rotor today you will probably bring it to near minimum thickness

2) which can be an argument for just changing rotors with every pad change .... plain jane rotors are cheap and you've done 80% of the work just getting the pads out.
 
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I disagree ... if the pads display even wear there is little reason to replace IF

1) new pads are not 'larger' than what you take off and impact any LIP (very unusual)

2) rotors are below minimum thickness which is often stamped into the rotor face.

I USUALLY go two sets of pads for one set of rotors on my daily driver road car ....

AND IMO today

1) rotors should NOT be machined or 'resurfaced' .... rotors are not built 'over thick' today as they were in years past. If you 'skim' a rotor today you will probably bring it to near minimum thickness

2) which can be an argument for just changing rotors with every pad change .... plain jane rotors are cheap and you've done 80% of the work just getting the pads out.
My thoughts exactly, on lesser cars I wouldn't have thought twice about running multiple sets of pads on one set of rotors, until the rotors were beyond salvage. On the ST I would be a little more hesitant. I've heard that pads wear for a really long time on this platform, thought I haven't owned mine long enough to find out. With that in mind, I would probably change the rotors out at the second pad change, unless there was no wear lip at all(very unlikely unless using very soft pads), it all kind of depends on the pads you are using. A very soft track pad is going to be much easier on the rotors than a ceramic pad.
 

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I HAVE DISCOVERED IT. The noise was because before I had even changed the pads, the inside face of the rear driver side rotor was completely destroyed. I.e it was like sand paper ( probably due to a rock stick between the old pad and the rotor. Therefore when I put the new pads in, the surface of the pads was grinding up against a very rough rotor making a very bad noise.

NOTE; when you change your pads, be sure to check the inside of the rotor to check for any anomalies so you dont think your brakes are broken like mine.

Thanks.
I’m new to the platform but aren’t you supposed to have your rotors machined or replaced if you do pads?
 

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I’m new to the platform but aren’t you supposed to have your rotors machined or replaced if you do pads?
I look at this in much the same way as the rest of the world looks at American oil changes. Just because the stealership "recommends" it, doesn't necessarily mean it's necessary. Depends entirely on the condition of the rotors, quality of the material, type of pads you run, properly functioning calipers, etc.
 

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I look at this in much the same way as the rest of the world looks at American oil changes. Just because the stealership "recommends" it, doesn't necessarily mean it's necessary. Depends entirely on the condition of the rotors, quality of the material, type of pads you run, properly functioning calipers, etc.
That said, if you regularly race your car or brake aggressively, it's probably worth the peace of mind to replace the rotors. Stress cracking due to repetitive heat cycling CAN happen, though it is extremely unlikely on OEM style rotors. Now if you have slotted or drilled rotors, definitely change them every time you change pads.
 

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If I help friends do a brake job, I try to talk them into at least getting cheap new rotors. Typically I've found pad slapping only lasts about half the life of the pad and is a waste of time and money, if you really care how the brakes feel. But if you don't have the $, it often buys some time for DIY.

I've not been into high performance brakes and such before. I usually just get decent quality rotors, geomet coating if available and if not then good paint, or BBQ black or silver myself if no painted ones available.

I usually buy rotors the first pad change and then turn originals for the next time. Even newer cars can usually get 1 turning unless they're old and neglected.

Mostly ran ceramic pads the last 10 years or so, mainly for less dust. Seemed easier on rotors than semi metallic on the cars I had, better feel and less dust.

I really like the ST stock brakes, but I'm not on them hard that much.
 
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