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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm totally not sweating this, but wanted to check on one thing...

So my Wilwood kit (F & R) and EBC Red pads have been on for ~300 miles now. All worn in completely flat across the surface of the rotor. All looking good. Drives amazing. So today i headed out to follow the EBC bed in procedures for the pads; 5 pulls from 60 > 10, let cool, and do a second set of 5. After I was done, you could totally tell the LR was not grabbing as firm as the other three brakes by the coloring and markings on the rotors. However, under extreme heavy braking, there was no pulling or anything else odd. You could only tell the LR was not grabbing by looks alone and not by any driving characteristics. After I was completely done, it occurred to me I left the stability and all the electronics on. Could this have influenced what occurred? The LR caliper bled fine, no indications of problems, nada. Wear up through todays procedure did not indicate any type of uneven wear; it was only after the bed in that you could tell. The other three rotors had that smooth, shiny, kinda blue finish to them but the LR looked unchanged from the previous normal driving.

I didn't want to reaccomplish that whole procedure with the electronics off today, but thought I'd ask to see if you think the electronics may have caused what I experienced.
 

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The electronic nannies are there for slippage or loss of traction. Unless you were tripping the ABS, I don't think this was it.

Do you think you can have a 2nd person help you and step on the brake and you watch the caliper for movement and the pads clamping on to the rotor? Quick easy test...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The electronic nannies are there for slippage or loss of traction. Unless you were tripping the ABS, I don't think this was it.

Do you think you can have a 2nd person help you and step on the brake and you watch the caliper for movement and the pads clamping on to the rotor? Quick easy test...
OK, wasn't sure about the electronics. Did not feel at all like I got into ABS, and I would imagine you'd know that.

I pulled caliper and rotor off today to inspect. All looks completely normal. Rotor looks great on both sides as if pressure is being applied evenly. Caliper piston slides in the bracket smoothly, pads look great, etc, etc. No leaks, nada. Put the wheel back on and had a friend press the brake pedal at various points of pressure. There was a very slight variance in the pressure between the L and R rear wheels, but I mean a very slight. The LR was easier to turn than the R at certain amounts of brake pedal pressure, but the difference was extremely slight. And once enough pressure was applied to prevent turning the wheels by hand, they were both immobile. So, no substantial findings there either. Oh well. Think I'm gonna let this matter be and just enjoy. I will say this though...it did take much more pressure to immobilize the wheels than I thought it would. I was surprised by that. But again...oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Why did you wait 300 miles to bed the pads? You are risking glazing them.
Because that's the pad manufacturers instructions. You want the pad surface and rotor surface to be completely mated across the surface before you bed them. With a brand new pad/rotor combo, you do not have that right out of the box. Countless sets of EBC pads (and other brands) on cars and trucks over the years...have never seen this elusive glaze creature you speak of...but then glazing likelihood is also significantly diminished with quality parts capable of handling the heat...and heat is what causes it in the first place.
 

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Consider bleeding brakes (again if you did it recently). I had an air bubble hiding somewhere in one rear line of my BMW, and same thing - it wouldn't pull under braking, but one rotor wouldn't clean up/wear as fast as the other. A fresh bleed took care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I bled that one wheel again last night. Will give that a run and see what happens, if anything.
 
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