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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Oh I know Brake Experts will say there is no such thing as Rotor Warp, it is just uneven pad transfer/buildup


Basically I drive my ST daily and use standard Centric Blanks with HPS pads for daily use, autox, spirited driving at times. I haven't ever had an issue until! I started using DTC-30s.

Now I did some track days on the HPS Pads and never had an issue, but I knew going into it that the pads wouldn't handle the heat, so I braked easily and took cool down laps every 3 laps just to make sure I kept things in check. Even then I never had any issues.

Fast forward to when I decided to goto Road Atlanta. I prepared by installing new fresh Centric Blanks, Motul RBF600, and DTC-30 pads up front and HPS pads in the rear.
I drove hard without any issues of brake fad or such. But I noticed later on in the day I was getting a warped rotor feel. I rotated my tires thinking maybe it was an issue with wobble. The issue came back after the first couple laps on the next session.

I was done with that track day and went back to new rotors and my HPS pads and everything was great again.

This past sunday I did another track day at AMP and threw the DTC-30s back on and after the second session I started feeling the judder and warp feeling again.

Things I noticed:
-- I changed back to my daily wheels/tires and if I spin the rotor/hub by hand I can feel it move easily then snag then free up again (LF and RF)
-- If you just let the car roll you can here the rotors make contact here and there (ex: ---- sssh ---- ---- sssh ---- ---- sssh)
-- 0-30 light braking everything is fine, very slight judder
-- 30-60 light braking has major judder, requires some brake force to make it minor
-- 60-80+ light/medium braking has major judder, requires some heavy braking to minimize

After Road Atlanta with DTC-30s and a cooldown lap my rotor temps were 900F

I am thinking I am maybe over heating the DTC-30s and they are glazing/coating the rotor unevenly
 

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These problems have been solved by many dedicated St owners. I know the search engine for the site is not the best but if you look for brake over heating many pages will pop up. May i suggest Mikes brake ducts or Vellosssa Tech brake ducts all of which will improve the performance of your braking. DTC 30's will not cut it, you need a pad at least on par with the DTC 60 up front with ducting. Ive run these and other similar pads on the stock stuff with no issues. The DTC 50 may work but to my knowledge no one has tested it. Essex Parts has loads of information on rotor and pad trouble shooting including videos. I currently run there set up and can't say enough good things about it. With out pictures I am guessing your over heating your pads which is resulting in deposits of material onto the rotors in uneven patterns. If after cooling laps your rotor temps are 900 degrees they are too hot. Try the resources I have mentioned to gain a solid base of knowledge. Remember most issues have been resolved it just a matter of finding the information. Next up is overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have done alot of research on here for brakes, as well as talked to a few people who track about brakes. From other forums it appears some pads are worse than others when overheating, the DTC-30 appears to be one of those.

I have some ABS to make Mike Brake Ducts, I just never did it because 1) brake shield 2) 14.5+ rotors are vented on the outside of the hub so it makes brake ducts much less effective.

My next step is talk to Todd @ TCE about the Wilwood options
 

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Yes.

I ran DTC 30 (street/race actually) for one weekend and they were done. Smeared pad material all over the rotor and put some good grooves in it too. This pad tries to be a good in between but in my experience that makes it not very good at street or track. Especially if you're already running 2 sets of wheels/tires/brakes, step up to a real track pad and you won't regret it. I do share rotors between street/track pads and have had good luck, but I'm just lazy, your method should be even better.



 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep that is what my rotors look like, so that is smearing I am experiencing.

My goal is to at least get a caliper so I can easily do track side pad changes when I change my wheels/tires. Dealing with trying to get the slider pins started always takes forever for me.
 
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