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Discussion Starter #61
Ok got you I see what you’re saying about putting the stock turbo back. I may have to consider upgradingthat if other parts are capable.
 

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No AC belt and looks like the compressor is gone. Also, looks like the grille has been modded or replaced. I have a '16, but doesn't that year have a solid area in the center?
 

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No AC belt and looks like the compressor is gone. Also, looks like the grille has been modded or replaced. I have a '16, but doesn't that year have a solid area in the center?
no AC for sure... no one that drives a true race car needs AC... LOL right k

very common to shave the back of these grills to open them up completely
 

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Ding!!

Looks light his wastegate is fully tightened, hence lack of heatshield. He needs a tune to sort it out. Its a good mod, but needs a tune to be proper.
Yeah I'm running with my wastegate fully tightened per duece's advice. I was getting over 25 pounds peak boost during the tuning process. I think he has sense tuned it down a little with the last revision.
 

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@Mxxxxx , That turbo is stock and came from a junkyard. It has LKQ written on it. The car was Big Turbo at some point and they more than likely sold the stocker. Does the car shake when running? The leak is probably from a balance shaft delete with a bad reseal job. From what I see it has charge pipes, catless DP, Blow off valve and IC. I would install a big turbo in it and have your shop drop the pan and reseal it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Awesome info thanks. Car is dropped off to be looked at for the oil leak. I’ll be getting a quote for a turbo definitely.
The car doesn’t shake when running.
 

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Ok so, little update, the oil leak is coming from a front timing cover? (I think that’s what he said) either way they’re calling me back with a price to fix that, as well as supposedly the exhaust is really ghetto, doesn’t fit properly, and has wood used as separators against the car to stop some rattling. I’m getting a quote to replace the exhaust and fix the oil leak. From there I will likely just enjoy the car for a bit and have them quote me for upgrading the turbo since it will have a good exhaust, intercooler, etc. the reason for no AC compressor is whoever put in the intercooler took the AC out because a bunch of hoses were getting in the way..?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
They are telling me with the catless straight pipe there is no way to pass emissions. Could he just be saying this because he can’t help me get around emissions with a hack?
 

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I'm afraid if they really measure emissions (not just obdII), you won't pass for sure.
If the only hook the car to a laptop via OBD port, you could get through if you have a defouler.
 

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They are telling me with the catless straight pipe there is no way to pass emissions. Could he just be saying this because he can’t help me get around emissions with a hack?
If it has to pass a sniffer or they do a visual check, they're correct. It would fail. If it only had to pass one of the "is the CEL on" checks, then it could.
 

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Is it worth it? You really have no choice now since you already purchased the car. I’ve said it before, but I’d never buy an ST or RS that has had any mods whatsoever. Both cars are fast enough out of the box & very reliable if you just leave them alone.

The Ford Dealer is going to cost you more than the cars worth with by the time they diagnose all of its issues.



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Dude, there is no such thing as "fast enough" for some of us. ROTFLMAO

Buying an already modded car, as long as it's done well, is almost always a much better deal that doing it yourself.
Mods rarely add even a fraction of their cost to a used car's value, with some mods even subtracting from it.
If most of the mods are in line with what you want, you can get some great deals this way.

This car doesn't sound like it's a basket case. A knowledgable tuner can probably get it sorted out fairly inexpensively.
 

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Ok thought I'd point out something's I didn't notice people mentioned. I'm guessing they told you aftermatket turbo because it's been replaced. It has an LKQ marker title on it in the one picture so at some point the turbo took a crap and they replaced it with a used one, not a huge deal. Secondly I didn't hear anyone mention something I'd do asap which would eliminate alot of worry, have the shop or yourself do a compression test to at least know if the block is good and healthy. Beyond that yes obviously oil pan, it really looks like someone dropped maybe when they did the turbo for some reason and maybe tried to slap it back up without putting on new RTV. I am kinda doubting that it has a BSD(balance shaft delete). Tunes important but I'd get everything else checked out first, like they said about your overboost code, id check all your vac lines to and from intake, boost control, bov, turbo, wastegate make sure none of them are cracked torn. But main thing is if your trans is decent and no grinds or slipping, and your compression is good and no oil burning by the engine itself you basically got a good deal. And if your wastegate actuator is tightened down to full load you'll definitely want to stay outta full throttle and full boost, IF you want to play it safe until everything can be checked, overboosting with out monitor is a good way to crack a ringland. So just play it safe until your checked over by a reputable shop that can tell you the jist of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Still waiting to hear back. I will ask them if they do compression tests. What are some of the exhaust setups that i should be looking at? & roundabout price for something like this? is it worth it?

Supposedly its the "front timing cover" and not the oil pan leaking. Still waiting to hear a "quote" on that. They recommended I get the oil leak fixed and a proper exhaust put on so i can pass emissions and just drive the car from there, i can always go back and add more power later.
 

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Still waiting to hear back. I will ask them if they do compression tests. What are some of the exhaust setups that i should be looking at? & roundabout price for something like this? is it worth it?

Supposedly its the "front timing cover" and not the oil pan leaking. Still waiting to hear a "quote" on that. They recommended I get the oil leak fixed and a proper exhaust put on so i can pass emissions and just drive the car from there, i can always go back and add more power later.


do they use a sniffer in your state to check emissions or do they just read the monitors on the ECU.
 
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