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I might be able to get you a keyed crank and timing gear also. I sold a set to a buddy and believe he still has it.

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Sounds awesome. I have not researched what your talking about...but I bet it’s a good thing...hahaha! Take me to school on this!


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Sounds awesome. I have not researched what your talking about...but I bet it’s a good thing...hahaha! Take me to school on this!


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The stock crank has two diamond friction washers that hold the timing gear in place. It can slip and throw the timing off at higher HP's. We key them so they cant slip
 

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*Edited 12/24
Username: TerrierST14
Car and Year: 2014 ST1; late build
Mileage: 80,100
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:#3 cylinder ring land failure
Modifications and tune: FRPP tune + plugs + snorkel, Cobb intake, Mountune BPV, Mountune FMIC
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): No sign of failure whatsoever. P0303 code popped at idle & prompted further investigation. Oil present on top of #3 coil pack. Leakdown & compression test conducted at a local, top notch performance shop indicated leakdown on #3 @ 85%, with extremely audible gasses escaping through the oil filler port.
Any signs prior to failure?: Car was extremely low on oil when I checked @ my regular ~2 week interval. Took ~1200 mL to fill to top of hash marks.
Warranty?: Yes - due for 'diagnostic' in 2 weeks @ selling dealer under extended warranty (sold through the dealer I purchased from) to establish claim...UPDATE: L&M was fully covered under extended service plan. I opted to spend $1400 for a re-man engine through FordParts instead of a junkyard mystery block. 3 yr/ unlimted mile warranty so all in all, not a bad outcome at all considering it popped under tune. 500 mi on it so far & break-in has been going smoothly w/o issue. Honestly, very surprised with the final outcome working with a dealer to repair everything.

Curious though why the new oil filler cap promotes the Castrol product...
View attachment 353335

funny enough I was doing some in depth research on SN-PLUS oil while the repair was underway and concluded I'd like to give the GTX Magnatec product a try on the new motor. Call me crazy but the timing of Ford certifying the Motorcraft Synthetic blend to the B1 spec/ SN-PLUS LSPI formula right as my motor popped hints that they knew oil formulation was an issue long ago for the EB series. Don't care to go through all of this a for a second round! Fingers crossed that my 'phantom' coolant leak is finally gone, as they also replaced the stock coolant reservoir cap during the swap:
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Hey man how you like the GTX Magnatec full syn 5w30?
 

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Sounds like you need a new mechanic.

Also, our motor is in fusions, escapes, Land rovers, and us. Most of those people don't push their cars, and most of them are on the twin scroll turbo to boot. Also the whole car forum thing, way more people online with focus ST then the others. They just aren't enthusiast type cars. So you get less data collected from the other cars. We beat the snot out of our cars, and some people don't take the extra precautions, or maintenance, or once in awhile they get a lemon.

Stock internals can hold to about 450whp, stock sleeves hold to around 770whp, and with proper maintenance, the motors last. Im around 400whp at 95,000 miles. Driven hard, lol.

The RS and ecoboost mustang guys tend to use our 2.0 blocks for their high hp builds. Seem the 2.3 block's sleeves like to rip apart around 450wtrq. Which is a far cry from our blocks.

So yeah, lmao.
Modern engines should go 200K-300K without going poof. If you go to the Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla pages high miles has a different meaning there. They don't start really bragging until they reach a couple hundred K on a motor/trans.

There is a lot more to go wrong on our engines. We have all bought into a high HP-Low displacement engine with some pretty cool technology strapped to it. It violates the KISS principle but you have to pay to play. It is a nature of the beast and I don't expect to run my EB engine 500K. I expect I'll be very lucky to hit the 200K mark without ordering up the next built long block.
 

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Hey man how you like the GTX Magnatec full syn 5w30?
So far so good. I really am pleased with it for both the price point and performance. I will share the results of my 1st OAR on the new motor once they are back from Blackstone next week.

Changed oil & filter last weekend w/ ~7,600 miles on the oil. Break-in oil was changed @ 82k odo w/ 2k on that factory fill. This past change was @ 89.6k odo miles; 9,600 engine miles.
Color looked excellent & viscosity seemed to be reasonable. No offensive odors or signs of contamination. Over the 7.6k interval, I topped off <100 mL.
 

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Well, after the weekend it looks like I get to add to this thread :( .

Username: TecShdw
Car and Year: 2013 Focus ST
Mileage: 42,xxx
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Piston - Cylinder 1
Modifications and tune: Stratified tune for 93 Octane. As for engine mods - Mountune Recirc valve, Mishimoto intake, Velossa Tech RAM Air, MBRP Downpipe/Exhaust, CFM Symposer block off plate. Other mods may be seen in signature (or any other than 'engine' related stuff). I've run AMSOil Signature series oil since about 24,000 miles, before that the Ford garage was doing oil changes, assuming synthetic Ford Oil from the shop.
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): 2nd gear pull (bedding in new brakes), loud pop - a ton of white smoke out the exhaust, bad shaking.
Any signs prior to failure?: None that I was aware of, of course today my wife says that she had seen small poofs of white smoke when I was launching at some autocross events.
Warranty?: Nope (42,xxx miles, warranty expired a little over 1 year ago)

Getting a new Ford engine w/warranty. I guess no tuning for a couple of years.
 

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Well, after the weekend it looks like I get to add to this thread :( .

Username: TecShdw
Car and Year: 2013 Focus ST
Mileage: 42,xxx
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Piston - Cylinder 1
Modifications and tune: Stratified tune for 93 Octane. As for engine mods - Mountune Recirc valve, Mishimoto intake, Velossa Tech RAM Air, MBRP Downpipe/Exhaust, CFM Symposer block off plate. Other mods may be seen in signature (or any other than 'engine' related stuff). I've run AMSOil Signature series oil since about 24,000 miles, before that the Ford garage was doing oil changes, assuming synthetic Ford Oil from the shop.
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): 2nd gear pull (bedding in new brakes), loud pop - a ton of white smoke out the exhaust, bad shaking.
Any signs prior to failure?: None that I was aware of, of course today my wife says that she had seen small poofs of white smoke when I was launching at some autocross events.
Warranty?: Nope (42,xxx miles, warranty expired a little over 1 year ago)

Getting a new Ford engine w/warranty. I guess no tuning for a couple of years.
Dude that sucks. Are you going to rebuild?
 

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Dude that sucks. Are you going to rebuild?
Just getting a new engine - If the old isn't needed for a 'core' charge or anything I'm going to keep it so I can do a rebuild on it for later on (maybe a kit car or just a nice built engine). We'll see, it definitely sucks. On the bright side I've never driven my ST in the winter and owned it since day one so I'll basically have a new one.

Looks like I'll be using my wife's RS the rest of this autocross season.
 
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I saw photos from the scope this morning, that Piston 1 isn't round anymore :eek:
 

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So far so good. I really am pleased with it for both the price point and performance. I will share the results of my 1st OAR on the new motor once they are back from Blackstone next week.

Changed oil & filter last weekend w/ ~7,600 miles on the oil. Break-in oil was changed @ 82k odo w/ 2k on that factory fill. This past change was @ 89.6k odo miles; 9,600 engine miles.
Color looked excellent & viscosity seemed to be reasonable. No offensive odors or signs of contamination. Over the 7.6k interval, I topped off <100 mL.
Ok I want to give you full fore warning so you can monitor it. Given the 2 motors are very similar but also very different. I have a 2007 Mazda Speed6 that I had a rod let go in and ended up doing the reman'd long block also same exact thing, 3 year/unlimited warranty. Followed the break-in sheet to the T at 6k miles it crapped out and started burning incessant amounts of oil. Company sent me another new long block and installed that one, this one I broke in the way I saw fit. 50 miles of alot of up and down rev range and downshifting to create vacuum and then hit it with boost. This engine last to about 15k miles and then did the samething. Both engines had loss compression severely, the first one dropped below 105 across all 4 in less then 6k miles and the 2nd motor dropped compression across all 4 to 120 by 14k. So what I'm suggesting to you is stay on top of not just doing oil analysis but do compression tests asap, I do them alot every 10 to 15k to monitor my motors, it woulda been nice to know where your remand motor was when you first got it so you could monitor any changes. But just thought I'd let ya know.
 

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I’m at 410WHP/425WTQ, but I’ve only had my setup for 5K miles. Lots of pulls to redline with no issues yet, and there are quite a few 400whp STs rolling around in the south Florida area.

We have another member who just rolled 481whp/408wtq on JST’s dyno with the G25-660, and I think he’s over 90K miles. People whose motors have failed where either bad luck during manufacturing, lack of maintenance, or tune. The tune is everything as SIstomper use to say years ago and still preaches to this very day.

The member with almost 500whp is on the stock block and races whenever chances he gets, lmao. He hits the redline practically every day. He was pushing 450whp on a 3071R, but he cracked the head. Replaced that he’s still going strong. No shattered pistons or hole in the block. That was a year and a half ago.

I’m going to crank up to 440whp here soon enough. We are all tuned by Brian at JST, half of us drove up to ATL for the dyno tune too. Get a good tune, check/regap plugs frequently, use decent oil, don’t floor in high gear/low RPM and have fun!
Best of luck to you.


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Just getting a new engine - If the old isn't needed for a 'core' charge or anything I'm going to keep it so I can do a rebuild on it for later on (maybe a kit car or just a nice built engine). We'll see, it definitely sucks. On the bright side I've never driven my ST in the winter and owned it since day one so I'll basically have a new one.

Looks like I'll be using my wife's RS the rest of this autocross season.
I had a Ford re-man engine put in when #3 went last year @ 80k. They required the core back for engineering teardown (I believe) to hold the best price. Virtually everything was new/ furnished on the built longblock minus the intake manifold, HPFP, turbocharger, & accessories (AC, ALT, vacuum pump). I have a 3 yr/ unlimited mile warranty on the engine. Runs perfect & no complaints!

Confirmed with the installing dealer, Ford Parts, & FRPP that engine warranty is fully maintained for that period if Mountune/ FRPP 'warranty friendly' parts are installed @ the dealer, as if under factory powertrain warranty. So you do have the option of the FRPP or MP275/MR300 tune if you chose that route. Best of luck!
 

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Username: CliftonWC
Car and Year: 2014 Focus ST3
Mileage: 55,000k
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Hole in piston, cylinder #2.
Modifications and tune: Borla Touring SS Catback, Cold Air Intake with Green Filter, Sound Symposer Delete, Turbosmart BOV, Cobb Accessport V3 w/ Stratified 93 tune with moderate crackle.
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): Wide open throttle, little engine noise but major loss of power. Lost all oil as well.
Any signs prior to failure?: Was making a little bit of a noise under load.
Warranty?: Not covered unfortunately. Currently in the process of rebuilding it.
 

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Hole in piston, cylinder #2.
Lost all oil as well.
Hole in piston; like a melted hole in the center of the piston, or a broken ringland?

Lost all oil? You can't lose all your oil through a hole in a piston (or a broken ring land). Did this just happen? You must have a hole through the block or pan if you lost all your oil.
 

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Hole in piston; like a melted hole in the center of the piston, or a broken ringland?

Lost all oil? You can't lose all your oil through a hole in a piston (or a broken ring land). Did this just happen? You must have a hole through the block or pan if you lost all your oil.
Yeah I don't know exactly what happened yet. I'm thinking metal through turbo but will only know once I get the motor out. Pulling the cylinder head today or tomorrow to see what happened with the piston and see condition of cylinder walls.
 

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Hole in piston; like a melted hole in the center of the piston, or a broken ringland?

Lost all oil? You can't lose all your oil through a hole in a piston (or a broken ring land). Did this just happen? You must have a hole through the block or pan if you lost all your oil.
Update: Pulled the cylinder head and there is no hole in the piston nor any scratches in the cylinder wall. Conflicting from what the Ford Dealership said. Waiting for a phone call tomorrow from the dealership to see what they have to say.
 

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Update: Pulled the cylinder head and there is no hole in the piston nor any scratches in the cylinder wall. Conflicting from what the Ford Dealership said. Waiting for a phone call tomorrow from the dealership to see what they have to say.
Wow I can’t wait to see what they got to say about that lol
 

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If theres no oil in it, was your car burning oil to the point where you didn't know coz it had just started doing it and it burnt it all up? I mean I would think you would see that amount of oil being burned. Either it was burning the oil, OR someone forgot to put oil in it during last oil change, OR have you checked the filter, is it on tight, I have seen someone spin a bearing from letting a dipshit put their oil filter on and lose all their oil. But yea this sounds like an interesting problem...OP never came back with a result or comments back from the dealer?
Side note, I had 2010 Kia Forte red K Koup with the 6speed and 2.4 liter 4cyl. And it ran great around 86k it developed alil bit of a knock, Kia replaced it, get this, fuqqen dumbshiits didn't put the oil filter on tight, I drove maybe 1500 miles and on the brand new motor and started hearing a tap or something and I was like no way. I couldnt figure it out, I pull it in the garage crawl underneath just look around haven't touched anything and just put my hand on the filter and it literally spun just touching so it was on its last threads off coming needless to say spun another bearing. I called Kia and told them what they did and asked what they wanted me to do, they said they would have never done that. And screwed me. Literally? Like the car was just in your dealership for a new motor, you guys did all the work, the filter you guys put on is still there and its only got like 1300 miles from when I picked it up. That was the last time I ever bought a Kia, as good as their warranty is, when that dealer did that **** I was livid.
 

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Like the car was just in your dealership for a new motor, you guys did all the work, the filter you guys put on is still there and its only got like 1300 miles from when I picked it up. That was the last time I ever bought a Kia, as good as their warranty is, when that dealer did that **** I was livid.
Not to go off topic, but the Theta engines are shipped from Korea with the oil filter already installed. So the dealer technically didn't cause that issue.
 

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Not to go off topic, but the Theta engines are shipped from Korea with the oil filter already installed. So the dealer technically didn't cause that issue.
Do you work for kia? Either way, the dealer had the motor and installed it, and that's like saying they install them and because they come with oil, they arent checked to be full and gone over, still dealers fault has all that should have had a 2x over. And from what I've read yes alot of manufacturers ship oversea engines with oil already in them alot of times they are even over filled but I also read that most manufacturers recommend to dealers that they change that oil after shipment. Before selling a car or selling a replacement crate motor.
 
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