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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have now seen a few people mention that their engines failed. It is good to centralize this information so that we can see failure modes emerge as patterns. This will help inform the community of the common issues so that we can address or be aware of them. So if you blew your motor, fill in the information below with as much detail as possible. The more details the better but keep your personal information and details off. I will try and keep the OP updated with the information listed.

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Username:
Car and Year:
Mileage:
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:
Modifications and tune:
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?):
Any signs prior to failure?:
Warranty?:
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Username: R3d F0x88
Car and Year: 2013 ST
Mileage: 20k miles
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Ford had no idea. They thought it might be a failed injector which leaned the cylinder out. Piston damage possible
Modifications and tune:
COBB CAI
Torries Unleashed 93 Octane Tune
Boomba BOV
Custom 3" Exhaust
Buschur Racing DP
Forge FMIC
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): Cruising then engine started misfiring
Any signs prior to failure?:
Warranty?: Covered
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Username: NicklePlatedCandyMan
Car and Year: 2013 FST
Mileage: 8300 miles
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Cylinder 3 piston has hole
Modifications and tune: Super chips SCR tuner (otherwise stock) ohhhh and yes i did reset to factory tune before returning
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): Took my car out for a night time drive.. drove fine till i hit some traffic.... (BAM) check engine light came on car started shaking badly at idle yet drove fine at speed. Anyway got the car back home and checked engine codes hoping it was some stupid sensor. Codes listed were P0303 (misfire cylinder 3) P0316 (misfire detected at start up) and finally P26DE (which i believe to be a malfunction of the resonator device). The dealer called the following day and informed me that there was a golfball sized hole in cylinder #3
Any signs prior to failure?: See story
Warranty?: Covered
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Username:ScarletBrohanson
Car and Year:2013 silver st
Mileage: 10k miles
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:
Modifications and tune: stage 3 93 oct tune from cobb. cobb FMIC, cobb intake, cobb 3" downpipe, 3" agency power exhaust
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): After fixing suspension noise and took for a test ride. car was driving fine and all of the sudden misfire on cylinder 4.
Any signs prior to failure?: None
Warranty?: Not covered
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Username:(WITHHELD)
Car and Year: '13 Focus ST
Mileage: 18,000
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:Unetermined - Coolant in number 4.
Modifications and tune:Stage 3 91 OCT Cobb
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?):Driving down road, suddenly no power and limps. Misfiring HARD.
Any signs prior to failure?:Check engines for a few cold days.
Warranty?:TO be determined. He was denied warranty coverage at his dealer, so I made sure there was no record of his visit and Took him to My dealer.
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Username:ST Kevin
Car and Year: '13 Focus ST
Mileage: 13,700
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:ford couldn't give me a direct answer all they could tell me was that oil is causing the 1st cylinder to misfire and that its for sure blown and that there "shipping the engine to ford HQ to have the engineers take it apart and find out what went wrong" they told me that a few days ago.
Modifications and tune:93 octane tune from unleashed tuning
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?):it first failed at WOT and got sent into limp mode, i then de-tuned it and then it happened again while cursing then it progressively got worse the next day as i went to take it in to ford
Any signs prior to failure?:went into limp mode a few times before i got the misfire code P0301
Warranty?:so far they said its covered under the warranty, but i think there gonna try and screw me over when they take the engine apart.
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Username:ivehadbetter
Car and Year: 2014 Focus St
Mileage: 11076 When it let go
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:Blew a compression ring on cylinder number 1, cycled metal thru the oiling system thru out the motor.
Modifications and tune: Everything is in my signature not gonna list it here.
Modifications and tune:
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): Took it to a dyno day, did 4 fantastic pulls. Made 240/302 on a mustang awd dyno. Drove it home normally in traffic and on the highway. Pulled into my driveway and it lost the cylinder. Deduced that it damaged the ring on the dyno (no clue why) and proceeded to eat itself alive on the way home. It literally gave no warning at all. Sent the data logs out to cobb and they confirmed that everything seemed normal while it was on the dyno.
Any signs prior to failure?: No signs at all. Pulled into my drive way up to my garage put the car in neutral, pulled the e brake and it started idling funny. Opened the door and heard the exhaust note sounded more like a boxer engine than a normal st engine. Gave it a couple revs and CEL came on. Immediately cut it off and pulled plugs. Cyl 1 was so fouled it looked like it had been bathed in oil. Scoped the cylinder the piston looked normal couldn't get a wide enough pan to see the walls. Towed it to the dealership they pulled the head, oil pan, oil filter. Saw metal in the oil pan, cut the filter in half and saw nice size chunks in the filter. Did a dry compression test only produced 35psi on cyl 1. Then performed a wet compression test, only produced 42psi on cyl 1. All other cylinders produced normal operating compression both dry and wet. Deduced it had done it's damage need a new motor.
Warranty?:Long story short I caught an ass hat oil tech being an ass hat oil tech in my car. Took it in a different day for motor mount tsb. I put the car in valet mode using the cobb tuner. I notified the service writer he acknowledged it. The tech doing the tsb work was notified of the tuner he documented it in the system. Ford saw that and washed there hands with it. They offered me a new crate motor installed for 5800. I found a brand new crate motor and am having it installed for much much less. Thru a family friend of a higher up.
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Username: jakebrewer

Car and Year: 2013 focus st

Mileage: ~29k

What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: chipped piston #1

Modifications and tune: atp gtx28 kit, tbe, intercooler, intake, randy tune, 342whp/326wtq

Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): partial throttle, partial boost, tuned for 23.5psi and 11.6afr wot, unsure exact afr during partial throttle pull

Any signs prior to failure?: no pre existing signs

Warranty?: didn't try, building
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Username: Steveb333
Car and Year: 14 Focus ST
Mileage: 4750
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Cylinder 1 Ringlands
Modifications and tune: Cobb intake, roush catback, and Stage 1 Freektune at the time
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): I was cruising when the Ringlands blew off the piston, But was running hot CAI a few days prior.
Any signs prior to failure?: Noticed Cyl 1 ignition correction peeking -5 to -6 degrees. After new short block was still getting the same readings AFTER my tune revision.
Warranty?: New vehicle warranty, put car back to stock before bringing to dealer.

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Username: tude90
'14 14k
Cylinder 4 cracked Ringland
Intake, muffler delete, sctx4 ots
Under warranty new short block, turbo, piping ect.
Started out with bad fuel mileage for a couple months. Then a slight miss at idle for a couple weeks(no codes). Assumed it could of been the recalled harness so when they replaced it I asked them to look into the miss and they turned me away because of my intake. 1 week later it blew. Put intake on and she's been in the shop since yesterday.

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Username: @RawadMoonif
Car and Year:ST 2013
Mileage: 20,000
What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?: Piston cracked
Modifications and tune: Panda Tune and Filter from COBB adding a muffler delete
Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?): After a day at Dyno , the car pulled bad Numbers as low as 209 then the next day a boxer engine like sound appeared and after that check engine and no more power
Any signs prior to failure?: No
Warranty?:Yes i removed every thing and don't know who to blame now , but tuner told me that this engine are not so good quality and cant hold too mush kicking
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Username: Mikeg1028
Car and Year: 2013 Focus ST

Mileage: 25k

What failed piston, rod, injector etc?:
Not sure yet, compression on cyl 4 is down to 5

Modifications and tune:
Downpipe, FMIC, e30, Catback, intake, Freektune

Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?):
The car started with a rough idle after installing the downpipe which i thought was strange but was told it was probably nothing, during a spirited drive the car started to idle VERY rough and let out white smoke from the exhaust.

Any signs prior to failure?: just a little odd idle but that may have been the downpipe

Warranty?: don't know yet.

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Username: fanatic

Car and Year: Focus ST - 2012

Mileage: 42000km / 26000 miles

What failed - piston, rod, injector etc?:
cylinder 4 ringland (i think so...)

Modifications and tune:
gtx2867r, inlet, charge pipes, oil cooler, 200cell downpipe, cold plugs, fmic and many more
Last tune revision was about 380whp and GOOD afr with about 11.4-11.6

Under what circumstances did it fail (WOT, cruising, what did you hear and feel?):
Always drive with cobb ap on, saw then some negative corrections on cyl 4 while driving normally trough town, made then over the day some logs and always when stand some time and then accelerating (partial throttle), cyl 4 starts short time knocking and ign. corr. comes in... When acceleration with wot or mostly wot, all corrections are fine, but when down from throttle the exhaust blew out smoke
Made then compression test:
Cyl 1-3 = 155psi
Cyl 4 = 135psi

Any signs prior to failure?:
Nope...

Warranty?:
No chance
 

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R3d F0x88
2013 Ford Focus ST
20k
Engine Failure
Listed in signature
Cruising then engine started misfiring
Motor was warrantied

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Discussion Starter #3
R3d F0x88
2013 Ford Focus ST
20k
Engine Failure
Listed in signature
Cruising then engine started misfiring
Motor was warrantied

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
What was the failure mode (piston, rod, injector etc?) and which cylinder?
 

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Ford had no idea. They thought it might be a failed injector which leaned the cylinder out

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That is what they think.

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Well im in the same boat 8300 miles. Took my car out for a night time drive.. drove fine till i hit some traffic.... (BAM) check engine light came on car started shaking badly at idle yet drove fine at speed. Anyway got the car back home and checked engine codes hoping it was some stupid sensor. Codes listed were P0303 (misfire cylinder 3) P0316 (misfire detected at start up) and finally P26DE (which i believe to be a malfunction of the resonator device). The dealer called the following day and informed me that there was a golfball sized hole in cylinder #3. Ford has agreed to replace engine as per warranty.

I also called the Ford customer care division and complained. I didn't like the fact that my new cars motor couldn't make it 10k before taking a dump. LOL (this was a wise decision) Ford has agreed to extend my 36000 mile factory warranty to 75000 miles (BUMPER TO BUMPER)

nickleplatedcandyman
2013 focus st
8k

Super chips SCR tuner
(otherwise stock) ohhhh and yes i did reset to factory tune before returning
 

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Dude holy crap! This is getting ridiculous. Mine was the same way. Hole in cylinder 1 tho and they said small tangerine size haha

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Yeah im starting to believe from what ive read in other forums that the inline hi pressure fuel pump (not the tank pump) isn't up to par for hi boost applications. Perhaps this is why the factory overboost is limited to 15 sec
 

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GIVE THIS A GOOD READ!! ESP the part about lean missfire

P0303 - OBD-II Code
Auto Systems and Repair
Misfire Detected in #3 Cylinder

Our emissions expert has put together the following information about the P0303 fault code. We have also included diagnostic procedures you can take to your repair shop if the mechanic is having difficulty analyzing the code.

OBD II Fault Code

OBD II P0303
Fault Code Definition

Misfire Detected in #3 Cylinder
Symptoms

Check Engine Light flashing
Rough running, hesitation, and/or jerking when accelerating
In most cases, there are no adverse conditions noticed by the driver
In some cases, there may be performance problems, such as dying at stop signs or rough idling, hesitation, misfires or lack of power (especially during acceleration), and a decrease in fuel economy
Common Problems That Trigger the P0303

Worn out spark plugs, ignition wires, coil(s), distributor cap and rotor (when applicable)
Incorrect ignition timing
Vacuum leak(s)
Low or weak fuel pressure
Improperly functioning EGR system
Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
Defective Crankshaft and/or Camshaft Sensor
Defective Throttle Position Sensor
Mechanical engine problems (i.e.—low compression, leaking head gasket(s), or valve problems
Common Misdiagnoses

Fuel Injectors
Oxygen Sensor(s)
Powertrain/Drivetrain problems
Polluting Gases Expelled

HCs (Hydrocarbons): Unburned droplets of raw fuel that smell, affect breathing, and contribute to smog
CO (Carbon Monoxide): Partially burned fuel that is an odorless and deadly poisonous gas
NOX (Oxides of Nitrogen): One of the two ingredients that, when exposed to sunlight, cause smog

Want to Learn More?
Generally, the term "misfire" refers to an incomplete combustion process inside the cylinder. When this becomes severe enough, the driver will feel a jerking action from the engine and/or powertrain. Often the owner will bring the vehicle into a shop complaining that the timing is "off." This is partially correct because a misfire does involve a mis-timed combustion event. However, the base ignition timing being out of adjustment is only one reason for a misfire to occur—and not the most likely.

P0303 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
When the code P0303 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Misfire Monitor has detected more than a 2 percent variance in RPM between the firing of any two (or more) cylinders in the firing order. The Misfire Monitor constantly checks the rotational speed of the Crankshaft by counting the pulses of the Crankshaft Sensor. The Monitor wants to see a smooth increase or decrease in engine RPM.

If there are jerky and sudden changes in the speed output of the Crankshaft Sensor, the Misfire Monitor begins to count the RPM increase (or lack thereof) contributed by each cylinder. If it varies beyond 2 percent, the Monitor will set a P0303 code and illuminate the Check Engine Light. If there is more than a 10 percent variance, the Check Engine Light will blink or pulse in a steady manner to indicate that a harmful Catalytic Converter misfire is occurring.

When diagnosing a P0303 code, it is important to record the freeze frame information and then duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive. Pay close attention to the engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed because a P0303 (which is a specific misfire) can sometimes be difficult to detect. If the Engine System has a Misfire Counter for specific cylinders on the Scan Tool Data Stream, pay very close attention to the cylinders(s) named in the misfire code(s).

If there is not a Cylinder Misfire Counter, then you might have to switch components—such as coils, spark plugs, etc.—in order to isolate the root cause of the misfire. It is also important to note and record any other codes because the engine may be misfiring due to the failure or malfunction of another system or component.

Common Causes for an Engine Misfire and Code P0303

Ignition Misfire
An Ignition System problem is one of the most common reasons for an engine to misfire. As the spark plugs, ignition cables, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil wear over time, their ability to transfer the needed spark to ignite the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chambers becomes compromised. In the early stages, the spark will only be weaker and the actual misfire will be subtle. As the ignition components continue to wear, the misfire will intensify and the combustion process can be interrupted completely. This will cause a severe jerk or shock in the operation of the engine (the engine may even backfire through the air intake system, producing a loud "pop").

Carefully inspect all of the Ignition System components for wear and heat damage. The Spark Plug terminals should have a sandy color and not be blackened with soot, white from an overheating combustion chamber, or greenish from coolant. Neither the Ignition Cables nor the Coil(s) should have any signs of arcing. If possible, Scope Check the Ignition System to ensure that the firing voltages are even—about 8 to 10 kilovolts per cylinder. If there is a Distributor on the engine, remove the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Inspect their terminals and contact points for wear, signs of arcing, and/or any buildup from corrosion. Though all ODB II vehicles have computer controlled timing, be sure to verify that it is within spec, even if it uses individual coils.

Lean Misfire
The lean misfire is another common reason for an engine "miss"—this is due to an imbalanced air/fuel ratio (too much air/too little fuel). Since an engine needs a richer (more fuel) mixture for a smooth idle, this problem may be more noticeable when the vehicle is idling. The lean misfire may decrease or disappear as the engine speed increases because the efficiency of the volumetric flow into the combustion chambers increases dramatically. This is one reason why a vehicle gets better mileage on the freeway than in the city. An EGR valve that is stuck open, a leaking Intake Manifold Gasket, a defective Mass Air Flow Sensor, a weak or failing fuel pump, or a plugged fuel filter are some of the many causes for a lean misfire.

Pay very close attention to the Long Term Fuel Trim values because they indicate how much the Powertrain Computer is compensating for an imbalanced air/fuel ratio. If the Long Term Fuel Trim is over 10 percent on one bank of cylinders and not the other, there might be a vacuum leak or defective/cracked intake manifold on that specific bank. It is important to determine what is causing this amount of compensation. Check the Fuel Trim "numbers" over the full range of operating conditions. A healthy engine should have Long Term Fuel Trim numbers around 1 to 3 percent, either positive or negative.

Mechanical Misfire
Mechanical problems can also cause an engine to misfire. Common causes of a mechanical misfire are worn piston rings, valves, cylinder walls, or lobes on a camshaft; a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket; damaged or broken rocker arms; defective fuel injectors (and/or the electronics that control them); and a slipped or incorrectly-installed timing belt or timing chain. Generally, this type of misfire has more of a "thumping" feel to it. It is usually noticeable regardless of engine speed; in fact, it may even intensify as the engine speed increases.

A Compression Test and an engine idle Manifold Vacuum Test are two very important methods of determining the mechanical condition of the engine. Compression readings that are consistent (within 10 percent of each other), and at least 120 PSI per cylinder and a minimum of seventeen inches of steady vacuum, are required for reasonably smooth and complete combustion.

Powertrain Misfire
Sometimes, the engine has nothing to do with a misfire. One common cause for "jerky" performance that feels like a misfire is a problem in the transmission and its ability to properly up- or down-shift. If the misfire occurs during higher speeds, it could be a problem with the operation of the overdrive gear or a chattering clutch in the Lockup Torque Converter. If the vehicle jerks or feels like it is "missing" during deceleration, it could be due to harsh transmission downshifts, badly warped rotors, out of round brake drums, and/or sticking brake pads or brake shoes.

Vehicles can set misfire codes when badly warped and out of round rear brake drums violently jerk the entire powertrain when the vehicle slows from highway speeds. Make sure that you have the vehicle properly inspected in order to determine the root cause of the misfire. Entire engines have been replaced to solve a wrongly perceived mechanical misfire problem that was actually rooted in the transfer case, transmission, driveshaft, or front/rear differential.
 

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Man if im having problems with the factory turbo what do you think a larger turbo would do??? I never had a WOT A|F ratio that went over 11 to 1 but im relying on the cars factory sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A hole in a piston can be from two things. The most likely is actually pre ignition. This is from igniting the mixture before the spark plug fires.

The fact that ford racing specs a two step colder plug with their tunes plays into this theory.

To create these kind of hot spots you need a lot of heat. To get those conditions high boost, low rpm, and a very hot intercooler with a lack of fuelling can all play a part.

The other option is a failed injector if it happens in only one cylinder.

For those of you that have had this happen. Was it always after a spirited drive? Hot conditions? Low rpm boosting? The k03 can generate a lot of boost at very low rpms and it is tempting to hold it there which adds a lot of heat to the combustion chamber.

Has anyone had a confirmed failed injector?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A final thought for the night. The integrated exhaust manifold must absorb a lot of heat. Exhaust manifolds generally glow red under boost but that would melt the aluminum in this case. That heat goes directly into the cooling system and into the head which is also responsible for cooling the spark plugs. This motor likely runs very hot and the small hot side of the turbo doesn't help.

Every motor has a weak spot. With the Mazdaspeeds we broke rods when the car was new. I studied tonnes of failures and rods and the solution was proper tuning and fuelling. Now broken rods are much more rare and the cars make much more reliable power up to around 400whp.

Keep on posting here if you have failures. With enough data we will get to the bottom of it and build the adequate tunes and solutions. This is the way to move forward and progress.
 

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photo (2).JPG photo 4.JPG photo 5.JPG

2013 silver st
10,000 miles it blew up

After fixing suspension noise and took for a test ride. car was driving fine and all of the sudden misfire on cylinder 4. Inspected it and this is what happened. Car was running on a stage 3 93 oct tune from cobb. Car has cobb FMIC, cobb intake, cobb 3" downpipe, 3" agency power exhaust. Took it to get fixed and wasnt in warranty and ford wanted to charge me 10k for a new engine. NO thanks so i went to a local shop who specializes in turbo cars. He told me cylinder #4 was running to lean and got to hot and gave out. Said there was no way u can run a stage 3 like that without supporting mods a high flow fuel pump and bigger injectors. Made me a one off set of custom forged pistons saved about 2.5k. While it was there had them install my new Quaife LSD and clutch.
 

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<img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34987"/><img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34988"/><img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34989"/> 2013 silver st 10,000 miles it blew up After fixing suspension noise and took for a test ride. car was driving fine and all of the sudden misfire on cylinder 4. Inspected it and this is what happened. Car was running on a stage 3 93 oct tune from cobb. Car has cobb FMIC, cobb intake, cobb 3" downpipe, 3" agency power exhaust. Took it to get fixed and wasnt in warranty and ford wanted to charge me 10k for a new engine. NO thanks so i went to a local shop who specializes in turbo cars. He told me cylinder #4 was running to lean and got to hot and gave out. Said there was no way u can run a stage 3 like that without supporting mods a high flow fuel pump and bigger injectors. Made me a one off set of custom forged pistons saved about 2.5k. While it was there had them install my new Quaife LSD and clutch.
You spent 7.5k on new forged pistons?
What about the car wasn't in warranty? Stuff like this makes me want to put everything back to stock :(
 
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