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Discussion Starter #1
So guys, I'm not very active on the forum but I do check it frequently whenever I have questions. I wanted to share my recent experience with you!

Background on my ST:
2016 ST 3 Kona Blue w/ 59k miles.
Mods:
Steeda shifter base bushings
Steeda shifter cable bracket bushings
Boomba fully adjustable by pass valve
Steeda clutch pedal spring
ZL1 Add-ons deluxe rock guards
Mugen style window deflectors
Cobb short shift plate
Stubby 4 inch antenna
Steeda gas hood struts
Steeda sound symposer delete w/ boost port
RS airbox w/ AEM dry filter

As you can see from that list, I haven't done anything crazy and have made no mods to the motor, no tune, etc.

Now on to the story..

I was driving back to my house Sunday night (Dec 22) and I pulled into my development and the car just shut off. No limp mode, no warning, nothing. I've previously had issues with a random misfire during the winter months but it's never really caused anything and I normally just replace the plugs at that time and it would go away. I drive the car as you would expect, hard at times but mostly just a quick and casual daily driver. I did not drive it hard at all that night. I had a friend tow the car back to my house and had my insurance tow it to the dealer over the next few days. Thank God for roadside assistance (the tow was free!).

It arrived at the dealer, Preston Ford, on Dec 24th around 10am. They said they might get to it but it would probably be Thursday before they touched it. With the holiday I said it was fine and I'd check back later. Before I had it towed, I replaced the battery just to see if that was it. The starter would engage but the car would not turn over.

Turns out, according to the dealer, one of my crankshaft bolts were loose. They tightened it up and took it for a test drive. Called me and told me it had a knock and they had to investigate it.

Fast forward to today (Dec 31) and I get told the motor is trash and I need a new one. Now I'm not a professional mechanic, more of a backyard tinkerer. My guess is the crankshaft bolt being loose threw off the crank balance and tore the motor up.

Any thoughts on that?

I've read tons of stuff about these cars randomly shutting off. All kinds of answers from the battery, to a bad ground, to the harness going bad. Now we can add one more cause to the list.

Since the car wouldn't turn over, I'm not sure how many of these codes are accurate.. and I also had my airbox out when I tried it. This was directly after I put the new battery in. I'm looking for the screenshot now and I'll upload it once I find it.

Happy New Year!

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes thank God! Apparently everything is ordered and should be in by the end of next week. And they're going to put my aftermarket stuff on the new motor for me.

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What did they mean by "trashed" or was that all they said? A crankshaft pulley coming off could break the keyway on the crank and they probably replace the whole engine instead of swapping out the crankshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They didn't say. I asked the service tech what exactly was the cause but she needed to talk to the mechanic. She said she'd get back to me. I'll update this post as soon as I have something concrete.

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Are you the original owner? There is no keyway on the crankshaft. If a repair had been done before and the crank bolt was not reinstalled tight enough, the timing chain could have slipped.
 

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No I'm not. I bought it with 13k miles. And according to Ford's records, the head had already been replaced for the misfire issue. I live in MD and bought it from VA.

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What did they mean by "trashed" or was that all they said? A crankshaft pulley coming off could break the keyway on the crank and they probably replace the whole engine instead of swapping out the crankshaft.
The st engine does not gave a keyed crank, we use friction washers.
 

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Try and keep the old motor, Rebuild it! Or sell it to me and I’ll build it. I need a new project anyways. I’m almost done with my current haha
 

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Ford almost always will not let you keep warrantied parts, I tried to do that with a set of plugs and they wouldnt let me. This was at the start of the whole cold start misfire TSB. Anyways obviously like people have already said no key way on the crankshaft unless you have built motor with a keyed crank. Secondly, the OP said they were replacing the motor, where did @Duchess get anything about replacing just the crank nobody said that, and he didnt say the pulley came off he said the bolt was loose, which yes prolly made the friction washer lose what friction it had and spun the timing a lil bit. It's possible that if the car would have never tried to have been started from the sec it shut off at his house when it originally lost power. They may have been able to find the bolt loose, retighten it and it may not have jumped timing, but with all the cranking of the motor running or not I gaurentee it prolly moved a few degrees or teeth out of timing which is what pooped it out. Someones watching over you gettin a fresh bottom end!!! Lllluuuucccckkkkeeeyyyy...wonder if they do just the short block or the long block?...prolly just the short, although ya think Ford would say it may have trashed the head also with the crank bolt loose the head should prolly be replaced too. Anyhow I'm surprised they werent like your Bov valve and sound symposer are at fault for the blow up and the crank bolt coming loose...I've heard dumber **** out of Fords mouth. Like it being a good idea for them to stop selling cars.
 

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Ford almost always will not let you keep warrantied parts, I tried to do that with a set of plugs and they wouldnt let me. This was at the start of the whole cold start misfire TSB. Anyways obviously like people have already said no key way on the crankshaft unless you have built motor with a keyed crank. Secondly, the OP said they were replacing the motor, where did @Duchess get anything about replacing just the crank nobody said that, and he didnt say the pulley came off he said the bolt was loose, which yes prolly made the friction washer lose what friction it had and spun the timing a lil bit. It's possible that if the car would have never tried to have been started from the sec it shut off at his house when it originally lost power. They may have been able to find the bolt loose, retighten it and it may not have jumped timing, but with all the cranking of the motor running or not I gaurentee it prolly moved a few degrees or teeth out of timing which is what pooped it out. Someones watching over you gettin a fresh bottom end!!! Lllluuuucccckkkkeeeyyyy...wonder if they do just the short block or the long block?...prolly just the short, although ya think Ford would say it may have trashed the head also with the crank bolt loose the head should prolly be replaced too. Anyhow I'm surprised they werent like your Bov valve and sound symposer are at fault for the blow up and the crank bolt coming loose...I've heard dumber **** out of Fords mouth. Like it being a good idea for them to stop selling cars.
It was in my original reply, but I guess this is important to you, so I'll try to be helpful. If the crank had a keyway, which I now know it doesn't so it's a moot point, a loose bolt could impart an asymmetrical force on the keyway, potentially breaking the keyway at the end of the crank, which would mean needing a new crank as a new pulley couldn't be held in place without the keyway and welding is risky due to potential damage from the heat. I have seen this very thing happen on other engines. His symptoms first seemed like the purge valve, but with the loose pulley and dealer claiming it needed an engine (which is their most likely proposed solution for a broken crank), I was wondering if it was the crank. I haven't taken these particular engines apart because I haven't blown one up and have other things to spend my money on, so I was offering advice based on prior knowledge. Now, from the other people on this thread, I know the crank doesn't have a keyway.
 

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I also have never blown one up, and have a child and fiance and mortgage and family business and have lots things I have to spend my money on I dont know what that had anything to do with and why you felt that needed imparted into our conversation. The only reason I knew it didnt have a key way is because I do alot of reading about our cars and any car I own, like my 07 mazda speed 6 turbo awd, or my 99 saab 95 turbo. Then also all my previous turbo cars, and actually I have never blown a motor in any car, although I did have my 91 Talon TSI finally spit its reverse gear out the casing at 183k after 50k miles of being tuned at 306hp to the wheels. I'm not saying that I've never blown an engine coz i know everything about cars or because I'm a expert racecar driver, although I do think I'm a decent driver, I think I've never blown an engine for 2 reasons I'm seriously anal about maintenance aaaaannnnddd it's just luck. Have a good one man, I didnt mean to annoy or piss u off when i first commented to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It was in my original reply, but I guess this is important to you, so I'll try to be helpful. If the crank had a keyway, which I now know it doesn't so it's a moot point, a loose bolt could impart an asymmetrical force on the keyway, potentially breaking the keyway at the end of the crank, which would mean needing a new crank as a new pulley couldn't be held in place without the keyway and welding is risky due to potential damage from the heat. I have seen this very thing happen on other engines. His symptoms first seemed like the purge valve, but with the loose pulley and dealer claiming it needed an engine (which is their most likely proposed solution for a broken crank), I was wondering if it was the crank. I haven't taken these particular engines apart because I haven't blown one up and have other things to spend my money on, so I was offering advice based on prior knowledge. Now, from the other people on this thread, I know the crank doesn't have a keyway.
I appreciate everyone's comments and thoughts regarding this issue. I did want to add some context regarding myself just to give everyone the assurance that I did not do anything malicious to the car to cause this.

First and foremost, I'll be honest. I've blown 2 Honda Civic engines up. The one type r spec B series and one D series. This was when I was very young. The B series had a massive oil leak I wasn't aware of because I wasn't attentive enough to check the oil like I should've. The D series was old and had over 200k miles on it and I firmly believe that it just gave up due to years of abuse from the previous owners and my young self.

I'm now almost 30 with a home and a child. Which is actually why I bought the ST. My wife wanted me to be an Altima or Accord driving dad. I didn't want that. So I sold my 2006 Civic Si (in bright blue of course) and went out and bought the ST. I needed something family friendly but I still wanted a manual transmission and something that was moderately quick. Plus I loved the Recaros and the infotainment system. I looked for my ST for 6 months because I wasn't settling for anything less than the ST 3 with low miles (to cut down the cost) and it had to have the Sync 3 system. I found this one 2 hours away and have taken very good care of this car. That's why I went with the mod choices that I did. I didn't want to tune it or add anything like an intake manifold spacer or anything else like that until I could do it right while maintaining the strength and reliability of the engine and other components.

I'm still waiting for the final verdict from the mechanic working on the car as to what exactly happened. All the parts for my engine should be in by the end of next week. I purchased the car from a reputable dealer in VA with 13k miles almost 2 years ago. Like I've previously stated, I drive the car hard at times but for the most part, it's my daily driver. I really only drive it hard when my son wants to go "fast". I'm really just trying to turn him away from big trucks and tractors and make him a fan of fast cars. He's only 6 so I have plenty of time haha.

I've learned alot about cars and engines throughout my life. This is the first Ford I've ever owned. This engine is certainly different than all the Hondas I've had but I did my best to take care of it the best way I knew how. The main reason for this post was to inform all ST owners that if your car shuts off randomly, THIS could be the issue. As another member stated, repeatedly trying to start the car could've caused damage. Well given my knowledge, I never would've found the loose crank bolt. It never would've occured to me. Which is why after replacing the battery (which seems to fail in these cars after 3-4 years according to the forums) I had it towed to the dealer.

I'll update everyone once I speak to the dealer again. I'll also upload my service paperwork after everything is done.

Thanks everyone! And have fun driving your STs while I can't.. but at least they gave me a 2019 Ranger XLT Ecoboost. So that's been fun! Not as good gas mileage though!

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What did they mean by "trashed" or was that all they said? A crankshaft pulley coming off could break the keyway on the crank and they probably replace the whole engine instead of swapping out the crankshaft.
Yeah, as you have now noted, we run friction washers, but in all of our 500plus hp builds we do in fact go with aftermarket crank keying to prevent timing from slipping. The diamond friction washers can only hold so much. So this is a valid point on aftermarket assemblies. A crank pulley coming loose is never a good thing regardless of it's securing method.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As promised, here is the complete work up from my car. I blacked out personal info and info related to the dealer. Spun bearing. Complete long block replacement. 36 months or unlimited mile warranty. They put all my aftermarket stuff back on with the exception of my boomba recir valve... if they "cannot find it" the service manager has agreed to pay me for it. I couldn't ask for a better resolution.
 

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As promised, here is the complete work up from my car. I blacked out personal info and info related to the dealer. Spun bearing. Complete long block replacement. 36 months or unlimited mile warranty. They put all my aftermarket stuff back on with the exception of my boomba recir valve... if they "cannot find it" the service manager has agreed to pay me for it. I couldn't ask for a better resolution.
I looked at the PDF and instantly had flashbacks to doing Dealership IT work. They use CDK as their dealer management system. CDK was awful to deal with.
 
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