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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You see the diesel guys do it all the time - with temperatures getting into the teens during the day here now it takes 5-8 min for coolant and 10+ minutes for oil to get to reasonable temps. I have a stratified tune which leaves my shutters wide open but I think thats just for the intercooler (someone please correct me if I am wrong here). I am wondering if anyone out there has done some sort of block off to their cooling system (not the intercooler, just the rad) to help and what they did as it sucks to not even barley get up to temp by the time I get to work :(

These cars seem to take a while to heat up even though the oil will spike under hard load when it was warm outside.

Thanks!
 

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I think I remember the shutters going up over the radiator too. I ran into this problem today. Took forever to heat up! The problem for me is the coolant does heat pretty quick, but the oil takes forever. So covering the radiator wouldn't help in my situation.
 

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With the shutters closed it seems to help heat the engine quicker, but probably because no air flow is going into the engine bar to cool the block. As for oil temp well that is based on engine temp and there is an oil cooler I believe in the radiator. So with air passing that it may take longer. I just wait for my engine to get to temp and the oil should be close enough and not cold. Basically when I see the needle move past its lowest point then the oil is getting warm enough. Then again I leased mine so I am not trying to make it outlive the warranty period. :)
 

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You see the diesel guys do it all the time - with temperatures getting into the teens during the day here now it takes 5-8 min for coolant and 10+ minutes for oil to get to reasonable temps. I have a stratified tune which leaves my shutters wide open but I think thats just for the intercooler (someone please correct me if I am wrong here). I am wondering if anyone out there has done some sort of block off to their cooling system (not the intercooler, just the rad) to help and what they did as it sucks to not even barley get up to temp by the time I get to work :(

These cars seem to take a while to heat up even though the oil will spike under hard load when it was warm outside.

Thanks!
Nope, don't do it. If you see really cold winter temps and don't drive much and are concerned about how long it takes to heat up, start the car and warm it up earlier. You can actually over heat the car by blocking the opening in the front....even in the winter.
 

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I live on a big hill and warm up took much longer with the grille open. I asked Stratified to make the shutters work like they did with a stock tune. They said no problem. Then I cut out one slat of the shutter so the intercooler doesn't heatsoak so much. I used a hot knife to cut the grille slat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I live on a big hill and warm up took much longer with the grille open. I asked Stratified to make the shutters work like they did with a stock tune. They said no problem. Then I cut out one slat of the shutter so the intercooler doesn't heatsoak so much. I used a hot knife to cut the grille slat.
Interesting, thanks for the tip!
 

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The shutter blades are all connected via a vertical bar in the middle. The shutter motor is connected to just one of the blades in front of the FMIC.

I wouldn't block any inbound airflow, for the reasons stated above.

It's true that Stratified uses a different algorithm for opening the shutters; they also are more aggressive at turning on the radiator fan sooner. Both will lengthen warmup times in colder climates.

If it were me, I'd just tell them your situation and let them decide how to adjust your tune accordingly.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 
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Again, only if the thermostat is faulty. The radiator does not become functional until the coolant temperature is at the point of opening the thermostat.
In theory perhaps yes, but that has not been my experience. I do the same commute most days; in winter the coolant and oil temps take a greater travel distance to reach nominal temps.

With best regards,
Mark
 

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In theory perhaps yes, but that has not been my experience. I do the same commute most days; in winter the coolant and oil temps take a greater travel distance to reach nominal temps.

With best regards,
Mark
That is most likely due to the engine block being cooled by airflow through the engine bay, if you have no AGS anymore. Mine in cold temps, mid-teens, warms up in less then 5 minutes. My AGS are almost fully closed for this. No mods on mine. And from another thread apparently are oil temp and pressure gauges are calculated in the computer not real readings. So who know what the true temps are, unless what I saw in a thread was wrong and they are real.
 

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That is most likely due to the engine block being cooled by airflow through the engine bay, if you have no AGS anymore. Mine in cold temps, mid-teens, warms up in less then 5 minutes. My AGS are almost fully closed for this. No mods on mine. And from another thread apparently are oil temp and pressure gauges are calculated in the computer not real readings. So who know what the true temps are, unless what I saw in a thread was wrong and they are real.
Oil temp in the center of the dash is calculated; water temp on the driver's console is actual, from a real sensor, which is pretty high up on the block (or the head; I don't recall) so water temp gauge reports operating temp (right) before the thermostat has opened.

I agree on the engine block being a kind of radiator, of course. We used to paint race motor blocks with special allegedly heat shedding paint.

All the best,
Mark
 

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Oil temp in the center of the dash is calculated; water temp on the driver's console is actual, from a real sensor, which is pretty high up on the block (or the head; I don't recall) so water temp gauge reports operating temp (right) before the thermostat has opened.

I agree on the engine block being a kind of radiator, of course. We used to paint race motor blocks with special allegedly heat shedding paint.

All the best,
Mark
The calculated oil temp is pretty accurate. I've compared it to my Defi gauge that is direct read.

Sent from another garage.
 

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The calculated oil temp is pretty accurate. I've compared it to my Defi gauge that is direct read.

Sent from another garage.
Nice to know; thanks!

All the best,
Mark
 

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For someone that doesn't know much of anything about how the slats operate, isn't that what they do...block off air in cold weather? Wouldn't there be s coolant temp input for this?

And would those things be driven open by throttle position/boost for FMIC considerations? Seems like that would be plausible also.
 

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The calculated oil temp is pretty accurate. I've compared it to my Defi gauge that is direct read.

Sent from another garage.
Good to know. I am impressed how it can calculate it correctly after a few hours of engine off. The oil temp will show warmer than the coolant since the coolant cools faster. Impressive.
 

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For someone that doesn't know much of anything about how the slats operate, isn't that what they do...block off air in cold weather? Wouldn't there be s coolant temp input for this?

And would those things be driven open by throttle position/boost for FMIC considerations? Seems like that would be plausible also.
I read somewhere that they are supposed to at WOT and when AC is on. Since I have not mastered how to be at WOT and on the hood looking at the slats I can not truly answer that. What I was commenting on is that for people with an upgraded FMIC and removed AGS that air flow thru the radiator may keep the engine from warming up as fast as on with AGS blocking air flow. All I know is that mine with temps in the teens warms up in about 5 minutes driving to get to warm enough for good heat.
 
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