Can barely hear anything in the cabin with my 3" cobb exhaust and catless downpipe. Now driving under bridges and shifting with a window down, then I can definitely hear the aggressive PSHH, but I got lots of exhaust pops that steal all my attention, so I really don't pay attention to turbo/bov noises anymore
lol. I have the 3" CP-e exhaust with cobb dp and a big turbo and its **** loud. Sounds fantastic and maybe one of the best 4 cylinder exhaust notes i have ever heard, but very loud.Can barely hear anything in the cabin with my 3" cobb exhaust and catless downpipe. Now driving under bridges and shifting with a window down, then I can definitely hear the aggressive PSHH, but I got lots of exhaust pops that steal all my attention, so I really don't pay attention to turbo/bov noises anymore
I run a BT without an LSD and have driven a BT with an LSD. I have PSS on mine and it hooks up great. The FoST with LSD was using Eagle F1's and my car hooked up better than his. The E-diff stops one tyre spinning. Where an LSD will have a big difference is in sharp corners and track work. The LSD will pull the nose in more aggressively and allow for easier traction control on exit. Straight line however mine performed better so I would say for just traction the tyres have the biggest influence, especially seen as the car won't let one tyre spin on its own.
With the E-Diff though, if it senses slip it will apply the brake to the one side to 'lock up'. Applying the brake will slow you down. A true mechanical diff should make the car faster in a straight line.
Oh no doubt it should, but with the stratified traction control I don't think you will notice much of a difference. That relies on ignition not brakes. Also if you can spin both tyres with an e-diff and LSD then there won't be much difference as both will have a lack of traction.
Nice! were you running the M&H slicks?
Yep! Tire pressure was around 8-9psi before the run. They will look flat. Ha ha
Axles stock? Im scared to even get on mine in first from a roll let alone launch it. How strong is the drivetrain in these cars? What gives first i guess is a better question
Stock everything except clutch. Stock clutch was going out so I replaced with a Spec Stage 3+. Drivetrain is pretty stout in these cars. I don't hear of many people breaking axles. Fastest I went was 12.3 I made 25-30 1/4 mile passes with slicks and never had an issue. Some were back to back and it did just fine.
What was your experience with changing from 2867 -> 2971 -> 3071? I will be going down the path of an engine build a bit later in the year and am thinking at the same time of swapping in a bigger turbo. Was there a big difference in top end between them?
2867 was a fun starter turbo. It got me to 402, but that was about it. Not too much lag and fun around the street. The 2971 was amazing. I think the main reason I loved that combo so much is because it was actually dyno tuned. Did a few logs on the street, but finished on the dyno. So power was smoother than factory from idle to close to 7,000RPMs. Can't remember what AR that turbo was. I want to say .64 due to the fact it lost a little up top. Now the 3071 was a monster on an internally stock engine. Spool took awhile, but man would it pull hard until the limiter! I ran that to 7,200RPMs and it would easily keep going. Downside to that combo was the tune. It wasn't refined to the degree that the previous setup was, so it had a few minor issues. Most was in between shifts it fell off more than it should and seemed to stumble back into things. If you are doing an engine build and going bigger, it all depends on your end goal. A 2971 or 3071 on a built engine would be amazing if you are looking to keep power around 450 to 500whp.
