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Discussion Starter #101
Brake condition upon disassembly

The rotors were scarred up pretty good, and so were the pads, despite having plenty of pad left.

Front rotor: Note the ~1mm lip
OEMFrontDisc.jpg
OEMFrontDiscSide.jpg

Front pads
OEMFrontPad1.jpg
OEMFrontPad.jpg

Rear pads
OEMRearPads.jpg

Replacement front coated OEM rotor from NAPA
NewFrontDisc2.jpg
FrontBrakeAfterInstall.jpg

Replacement OEM rear rotor from Canadian Tire
NewRearDisc.jpg

Removing the rear endlinks from the sway bar will save you some hassle-time
RearEndlinkBrakeJob.jpg


At the time of this brake job, the car's first, the car had been street driven only, no track time. This is the brake condition after three summers and two winters, totaling ~28k miles.

Lastly, keep in mind that the rear caliper pistons have to be twisted back into place, unlike the front, which can simply be compressed by applying pressure to the used OEM pad.
 

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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
Removing Rear Seat Bench and Hatch Interior Panelling/Insulation

Leading up to the first track day, and considering that no one had sat in the rear seats since a camping trip in the summer of 2015, I wanted to remove any dead weight from the rear of the car. The seat come out in about 5 minutes if you do it properly. I've seen some folks report trying to unbolt everything, which is unnecessary. The two folding sections each have one clip, which when undone, releases the entire folding seat-back. From there, you simply unbolt the seat bottoms, unbolt the middle seat belt from the floor, and you're all set. Should take about 15-20 minutes. As for the paneling, it's pretty straightforward. Undo any obvious bolts that you can see, then rip them off.

Now, I am the first owner of this car, no one else has ever driven it out of my line of sight (after I took it off the dealer lot), and the car has never been in any accident of any kind. That said, I was presented with a special surprise under the rear seats once I pulled them up (yes, this was the first time I decided to pull them up, rather than just dropping the seat-backs..)

You guessed it! Broken glass.... My guess is a busted window during manufacturing after the seats were installed or smashed at the dealership, then they vacuumed the seats, assessed the damaged, and seeing none they replaced the window and sent it on its way..

Exhibit A
FlippedUpSeatGlass.jpg
SeatGlass.jpg

Seat removal pics: The 3rd pic is just the seat belt bolt put back in place after the belt was removed
SeatBoltsFront.jpg
SeatBeltBeforeRemoval.jpg
SeatBeltRemoved.jpg

Removing the rear seat bench, the insulation/paneling, and the spare tire nets roughly a ~125 lb weight reduction.


Next Posts: Track Season

When I have time, I'll share my track notes on brake temperatures, tire pressures, how the car held up (coolant/oil temps!, brake temps (!), other misc notes, WMI track reliability), and my data logs. So far, I've done two track days, both different from one another, where I ran slightly different setups each day. The first day I battled over-heating (only for about 20 seconds, but was otherwise on the fringe all day), and on the second day, I battled old tires and 1000 F front brake temps. Lastly, I'll show some pics of the rotor and pad wear after each session, as well as my new wheel/tire selection, and AP Racing caliper plans.

More to come.
 

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Would recommend not running hp+ at all if you are pushing the car at all on the track. Great write up tho!


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Discussion Starter #104
Would recommend not running hp+ at all if you are pushing the car at all on the track. Great write up tho!


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100% agree. They would likely be great street/autocross pads, but they fade after two or three 20 minute sessions.

Debating whether to pick up a set of DTC60 pads now or ride it out until next spring's AP Racing purchase. On another note: Trying to avoid buying wheels now that won't clear those AP calipers in the spring. Need tires and wheels immediately so can't wait for calipers to test fit them. Have emailed the AP caliper template to TSW to test fit on a few wheels, which is a bit of a pain. Not interested in using spacers. If anyone knows of a set of wheels that clear the AP Racing calipers, please let me know.. Local tire shop recommends Neuspeed RSE52, but they're twice as costly as some reasonable alternatives like a Sparco Asetto Gara. Not opposed to the Neuspeed's, but I'd like to consider every possible alternative.

I am going to try lowering the air deflectors further under the car toward the ground to scoop more air, but without proper rotors to help dissipate heat in addition to more air, I don't expect a world of difference at the front HP+ pad.

Despite the shortfalls of the OEM brakes, I'm satisfied with the approach I've taken in establishing a performance baseline with a near-OEM setup to better understand where improvements are required and why.


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100% agree. They would likely be great street/autocross pads, but they fade after two or three 20 minute sessions.

Debating whether to pick up a set of DTC60 pads now or ride it out until next spring's AP Racing purchase. On another note: Trying to avoid buying wheels now that won't clear those AP calipers in the spring. Need tires and wheels immediately so can't wait for calipers to test fit them. Have emailed the AP caliper template to TSW to test fit on a few wheels, which is a bit of a pain. Not interested in using spacers. If anyone knows of a set of wheels that clear the AP Racing calipers, please let me know.. Local tire shop recommends Neuspeed RSE52, but they're twice as costly as some reasonable alternatives like a Sparco Asetto Gara. Not opposed to the Neuspeed's, but I'd like to consider every possible alternative.

I am going to try lowering the air deflectors further under the car toward the ground to scoop more air, but without proper rotors to help dissipate heat in addition to more air, I don't expect a world of difference at the front HP+ pad.

Despite the shortfalls of the OEM brakes, I'm satisfied with the approach I've taken in establishing a performance baseline with a near-OEM setup to better understand where improvements are required and why.


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Ya i get it! I used oem brakes (meaning calipers and rotors) for about 1.5 years and about 15 track weekends. I used dtc60 and 600 with a stainless like. They did great for what they are no doubt. Dtc is a good pad and should hold you over until you pony up for some better overall brakes. I also modified the heat shield to let more air in from the deflectors I ran but still wanted to keep the deflector on to protect the tie rods and such.

Have fun out there. Nice build!


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Discussion Starter #106
Track Day Notes

Though not nearly as often as I would have liked, I did manage to get out to the track twice this summer, and both times I learned valuable information about the Focus platform in a track application. If it were not for ruined tires (pics below), and my projected track-tire budget going toward a winter beater car instead, I would have liked to have had at least 2 or 3 more track days.

Lessons Learned

These two items need to be addressed before next year's track season.

1. Engine Cooling: Engine oil temps reached 240 F, which is at the threshold for what others have referred to as "limp mode", which is effectively where the engine control systems cut power.

- Where the coolant circuit does cool the engine oil to an extent via a small heat exchanger, it seems that there are considerable cooling gains to be had with a radiator upgrade, higher water content in the coolant mix (~70%), and structural changes to reduce air flow restrictions behind the front fascia (less restrictive crash bar and grille, modify bumper, add air guides).

-After my first track day, I did shave down the back of the grille with an angle grinder. This helped me avoid limp mode on the 2nd track day, but I was still right on the edge of overheating, nonetheless.
ShavedGrille.jpg

-I quite like @Kevin 's approach, aswell as this one below (forget the guy's username):
FocusCoolingExample.jpg

2. Brake Cooling: Brake temps were most certainly in the 800F+ range while on track, where I could only take IR gun measurements once parked in the pit after a cool-down lap.

- Here is my track log from the 2nd track day, where you can see 700F brake temps measured, which is completely unacceptable, and indisputably unsafe for the HP+ pads that I was using. Compare those temperatures to the 350F measurement that I took of the driver's front wheel on 2017 GTR. That car is travelling much faster at every point on the track, braking harder, yet manages brake cooling far superior to our cars. Not that our car is an apples to apples comparison to a GTR, a naive idea at best, but it suggests that at the very least that you MUST give brake cooling its due attention before getting serious about SAFELY tracking the Focus.

* Bonus Unsolicited PSA: If there is one piece of advice that I would give to anyone considering running your car at the track, even if you're running 100% stock, GET A DATALOGGER AND TAKE LOGS. Hands down the best $500 I've spent on the car. Can save you from a world of hurt, where often a datalog is your only hope of preventing a failure that would have otherwise given no obvious indication of imminent headache.

TrackLogAfter2ndTrackDay.jpg

- Here is a picture of my driver's side front tire taken a few days after my 2nd track day. I cannot confirm if this happened on the track or due to the steep curb that I have to negotiate everyday at the entrance to the parking lot at my office.

EagleF1AfterTrack1.jpg
EagleF1AfterTrack.jpg

- Next spring I intend to go with either VelossaTech's Stage 3 brake cooling kit, or a DYI version of it, along with DTC60 pads and the Frankenbrakes in the rear.
- Long term, without question, I will be going with AP Racing's BBK. For now, more can be squeezed out of the stock system while the cooling issues get proper attention.

Measurements Needed
This brings up others questions that I cannot quantify answers to just yet:

A. Turbo component temps?
B. Tire wear as a function of excessively high caliper/rotor temps?
C. Front right tire temps exceeding all others - Function of track layout, Sport-Mode control logic activating the brakes of that tire as a result of track layout and driving style? For this one I intend to run with ESC completely disabled to see if it brings front right and front left caliper temps closer together. I am not familiar with the stability control and torque vectoring control systems, so I am not equipped to answer this question for myself without some research. Maybe others could weigh in?
D. Would another engine oil other than 5W30 improve engine internal longevity for a track-dedicated Focus?

Track Tune Datalogs

On the 1st track day, I was dialed way back to 23psi boost (from 27-28psi) and about 5 or 6 degrees of timing behind my WMI tune, though I did still run with my WMI active for protection. I knew going in that I would almost certainly deplete the windshield washer fluid reservoir (my WM reservoir), so I was prepared to see that in the datalogs. Here is what it looked like, where you can see precisely when my tank ran dry:

- Note that if it weren't for my WMI being active for ~17 minutes of the ~20 minute run, the entire log would like like to far right of the chart, which would likely mean catastrophic engine failure in no time.

V1.00_WMI_May-23-2017.png

On the 2nd track day, I pushed the boost and advanced timing slightly and, against my will, on the recommendation of a local import tuner shop owner, I tried a fuel additive called Boostane so that I could have peace of mind while running with WMI deactivated.

Notes:
1. Up to this point, I was completely against any kind of additive in the same way that I'm against any kind of snake oil of any kind (and still am against ALL other additives, until I see the numbers first hand). I was 100% skeptical until Alex mentioned having a guy tune with an additive called "Race-Gas", and upon looking into that with local tuner shops, I had one owner suggest that he had tuned with "Race-Gas", but had been switching many STI/Supra owners over Boostane because he felt that it provided the same knock prevention performance while doing a better job of suspending particulates in solution for longer.
2. I used a 1L:40L mixture (mixed with 94 octane pump gas), mixing it in a gerry can.
3. My intention is not to run my aggressive WMI tune at the track. Nor is it my intention to have WMI active at all at the track.
4. My intention is to find a race-fuel mix that makes as much power as possible, without compromising tire grip, and without exceeding the cooling system's ability to keep temps in check.

Now, the results. Compare this chart below to the chart above, keeping in mind that the chart below was recorded while running a slightly more aggressive tune than the chart above.

V1.20_Boostane_June-17-2017.png

5. In terms of knock prevention, undeniably, this stuff is the real deal. What (if any) deposits is it leaving behind in fuel filter, fuel pump, lines, injectors, valves, engine internals? Who knows. Only time will tell.
6. For now, I intend to use Boostane in my track fuel mix indefinitely. Would I recommend it to every person ever? Not yet. In terms of my experience with the product, I have a first hand sample size of 1. Not exactly bulletproof data.


For now, for this track season, that's all she wrote.


Time to plan for next year's cooling mods and track-tire selection.
 

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Boostine is a race gas concentrate but I don't know where you can get it other than to order it online. VP has Octanium which is available from your local VP distributor, VP stores and Autozone.

I highly recommend increasing octane for any heavy boost operations. The added protection from heavy ignition retard alone is worth the minor increase in the track budget. But I would plan on adding a larger water tank, you can run it in series with the washer tank and increase the amount of available fluid.

Also increasing water in the coolant system to 79-80% and pick up a 170 degree thermostat from [email protected] Tuning is a excellent ideal. I have done the former and have the latter not installed yet but with big changes coming to my car that I will finally install the thermostat.

Water is superior in cooling but likes to rust things, 20% coolant is plenty for most climates. My car is consistent at the drag strip with the coolant mixer change.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Don't have much time to go into detail here these days anymore, but I'll post some brief progress pics and give some track day reviews.

Latest upgrades have been:

1. AP Racing front brake kit with DS1.11 pads.
IMG_4930.jpeg
IMG_4950.jpeg

Review: These brakes are the real deal, not much else to say. With ducting, Castrol SRF, and DS1.11 pads, they bite hard. I am now limited in lap time by not having an LSD, and by my Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires. Will be buying NT01's at some point soon. The LSD is the next upgrade, but no idea when I'll have time to do that install.

2. Frankenbrake DBA slotted rear RS 302mm rotors with DTC-60 pads.
Will update with pics when I can take some.

3. Castrol SRF brake fluid

4. Several attempts installing VelossaTech ducting, but have had some issues. Service has been great, definitely recommend on that front.

5. Finalized tune on both 40:1 Boostane (with pump 94 octane) and it seems interchangeable with 40:1 Race Gas (with pump 94 octane).
Review: My track tune makes about 26-27 psi (dialed back from ~29 psi on my WMI tune), and it's flawless all day long with a 40:1 mix. All timing corrections are positive. Stuff isn't all that cheap, but far cheaper than $5 CAD / litre for blended race gas from someone like VP Racing (yes, there are likely other advantages to that other than octane for $5CAD/L)

At this point the issues I am dealing with are traction, my brakes stepping in to stop my inside wheel from spinning, alignment is likely out (noticed very serious wear to brake pads and tire at front passenger wheel at last track day, relative to all other wheels), and I found oil accumulating in my piping either because my catch can is full, or because I need another catch can or breather to vent valve cover pressure.

Next upgrade is definitely the LSD. Can't explain how demoralizing it is to watch a Civic Type R with RE-71 grip step on the throttle waaaay before I am in the turns. That needs to end, just a matter of having the time to spend on the install over the winter. It's not about the money, whether to pay someone to do the install, it's work I want to do because I want to gain that experience, and there are other parts I would replace while I have it all disassembled anyway.

Lots of track datalogs if anyone is interested, just say the word.

Here is the first vid I took at the track in early May.


All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
Rear brake setup:

IMG_5230.jpeg

IMG_5261.jpeg


Front brake ducting trimmed to reduce interference throughout steering positions:

IMG_5255.jpeg


Inspection findings:

1. Silicone hose issue

Should have taken pictures but short story is that it seems that the heat from the turbo and compression from the hose clamp were enough to mangle the turbo end of the silicone hose connecting to the hot pip. It was to the point where it was ready to slip out from under the hose clamp. Got lucky to catch it in my garage.. It was never lined up perfectly, which is a known issue with the hose supplied by cp-e, where it seems that one of the legs could have been a bit longer. They now offer an uncut silicone hose on their website so I picked up two and am waiting shipment. If you track your car, keep an eye on your hoses and clamps.

There was oil dripping from the silicone hose and spewing from my BOV, so I checked my catch can for overflow but it was only ~20-25% full. This might need some attention in the future.

2. Front tire and brake pad wear on passenger side following last track day.

I noticed that my passenger front tire had worn 2/32" more than the others (they usually lose ~1/32" in front and maybe 1/64" in the rear per day), and my brake pads at that wheel had also worn 2/32" more than the front driver's pads. THIS IS ALOT OF RELATIVE WEAR. These pads should not have worn that much, and neither should the tire. I haven't seen results like these following any of my track days, and there was no notable change to my driving, so I suspect my alignment is out. None of my suspension settings seemed to have moved, so I'll get an alignment and hope for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Silicon hose issue looked like this:

374716


Was fixed by welding a few inches of extra aluminum tube to the existing cp-e tube so that it extended properly up into the hose for a good seal as seen below:

374717


After some strange tire and pad wear during a track day earlier in the season I went and had my alignment and wheel balance checked and all was good. Proceeded to the track a couple of weeks ago and made it about 80% through the day before I noticed that my front tires were literally shredding apart, and on one the bead snapped and stuck out. Note how far down the sidewall that the wear pattern extends. More on this below.

374718


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My response to this was to debate my entire existence for a couple of days, then buy Vorshlag camber/caster plates, and TB Performance strut brace and crash bar. The goal here is to ideally achieve between -2.5 and -3.0 degrees of front camber and max out caster.

Some other chassis/suspension details to consider aside from camber and caster need to be considered. Maybe open the front toe by ~0.5 degrees or more if someone makes a persuasive argument for it? Front and rear are full stiff on both compression and rebound. This is going to change immediately because the understeer is real, and the rear never breaks free to rotate around tight turns and the dicey chicane before the main straight. Only reason it hasn't been changed yet is that other critical reliability details had to be sorted out first (long list).

To swing way toward oversteer then correct back toward something workable, the front is going to get loosened up on both compression and rebound to full soft to see what kind of range of behaviour the car has.

Not sure what to expect from the Vorshlag camber/caster plates and whether they will potentially increase ride height because of the seemingly tall bearing assembly. Will report back in a month or so once they are installed.

Aside from shredding tires apart and still dreaming of the day soon when the car is ready for an LSD I couldn't be more pleased with the way the build is going.

More detail on a decent deal that popped up for proper track wheels and tires in the next post, since the tires were toast and 19" wheels are not an optimal track choice for the Focus.
 

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Discussion Starter #112 (Edited)
Wheels and Tires:

After asking around town for lightweight wheels, a guy that has hooked me up in the past happened to have just sold his RS so had a set of 18x9.5 Enkei's and some 18x9 Titan7's for sale with about 1 or 2 seasons'-worth of wear and tear on them. The Titan7's had some Falken Azenis RT615K+ on them with about 1 track-day's-worth of tread left. The Enkei's bumped into the AP Racing caliper and the KW V3 strut so that was a no-go.

We came to an agreement for the Titan7's and the RT615's. The wheels are red, which is completely against everything I stand for in life, but the price was too attractive to turn down. They will likely get stripped and re-powder coated in the summer, and after the first track day I'll be installing some Nitto NT01 or RE71's.

As a precaution, I rolled the front fenders in preparation for the 255 or 265 tread that I'll run once the Falken's are toast. Will post before and after pics of that once I take the pics.. In the meantime, here are the blasphemous red wheels that I'll regret until they are re-coated:

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These pictures are before the fenders were rolled while wheel and tire clearance was being checked with current setup before the camber/caster changes are made.

Eventually the fenders will be cut up and replaced with a wide-body kit but that's a couple of years away at best. There really aren't any off-the-shelf lightweight forged or MAT wheels on the market wider than the 18x9.5 Enkei's that I would be willing to roll the dice on, so the wide-body doesn't serve much of a purpose unless you're going for custom wheels to fit something like a 285+/40+/18 tire.

Spacers will never make an appearance in this thread, though anyone who feels the need to run spacers is not going to find any judgement here, just a personal decision. Down the road (probably), to avoid spacers but to leverage legitimate widebody panels and monster tires, it seems likely necessary to custom build the entire front chassis linkage to replace the OEM knuckle and all the associated trinkets. That's a no-BS job and requires a serious amount of design thought that is at least few years away, if it ever becomes necessary for meaningful gains. Plenty of low-hanging fruit to go before the car gets to that point, but it's on the table.

More to come on camber/caster plate, strut brace, and crash bar installs.

Side note: Has anyone else installed the Vorshlag camber/caster plates? Haven't had much luck poking around in the forums for others with them installed. If so, I'd appreciate any feedback from your experience with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
Sitting around with the track season over, and parts in the mail, it became painfully obvious that the interior of the car serves minimal purpose at this point. This car is my first, and it will never know another owner. Armed with these conclusions, my Sunday morning and afternoon turned into a weight reduction exercise.

You'd be astonished to know precisely how much plastic these cars are carrying. Including the instrument panel, there has to be at least 100 lbs of plastic and noise insulating material in this car. Low hanging fruit.

Items that were removed yesterday, among others, and their estimated weights (please feel free to chime in with actual weights):

1. Headliner and overhead console- ~7 lbs
2. Hatch panel - ~4 lbs
3. Door panels - ~4 lbs each x 4
4. Rear seat belt latches, mounting brackets, and bolts - ~8 lbs
5. Rear windshield wiper and motor - ~6 lbs
6. B-Pillar covers - ~1 lb each x 2
7. Miscellaneous plastic covers from rear seat area - ~3 lbs
8. Rubber floor mats, cloth floor mats ~ 3 lbs per side x 2
9. Driver and Passenger sun visors/mirrors - 2 lbs each x 2
10. Miscellaneous metal clips - 1 lb

Others removed years ago:

1. Spare tire
2. Spare tire storage area insulation
3. Trunk area insulation, plastic covers, and carpeting.
4. Rear seats.
5. A/C compressor, heat exchanger, piping (and fluid)
6. Horn
7. Active shutter and other front end plastic nonsense
8. Sound Symposer
9. Cowl insulation (not sure what we call it here but it used to sit between the cowl and the strut brace.
10. Engine cover
11. Hood underside insulation

Next on the list to go to further reduce weight, among others:

1. Center console
2. Instrument panel
3. Driver and Passenger seats replaced with racing seats, brackets, and rails
4. Floor Carpeting
5. Firewall insulation
6. Sunroof, mounting brackets, rails, and motor
7. Rear windows, mounting brackets, rails, and motor (replaced with Lexan or Plexiglass)
8. Exhaust resonators
9. Front crash bar being replaced by TB performance bar when it arrives.
10. Balance shaft
11. Replace flywheel with lightweight flywheel
12. Possibly a smaller intercooler..
13. Replace strut brace with TB performance brace
14. Engine block heater
15. Stereo and speakers (this will be a sad day, but will likely be necessary when the IP gets pulled, unless the buttons and display can be salvaged and a mounting location found.. Delaying the inevitable, you're right.)
16. Side curtain Airbags (one of the last to be pulled, but may go the same day that the IP is pulled)
* Will likely not pull the instrument panel until a racing seat, 6 point harness, and harness support bar are installed.

Some pictures from the aftermath of this weight shedding exercise...

Rear hatch with panel, wiper, and motor removed:

374822


Hole left that has to be filled with something:

374823


Hole is about 1 3/16":

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Roof with headliner removed - If you're going to do this, do not just take a knife to it without paying close attention to where your wires are, as they're glued to it along with the rear wiper fluid line. Pretty sure those chrome-looking patches are just noise deadening weight but the adhesive is a real mess so that will be getting attacked with some Goo Gone this coming weekend, but that'll require some patience - though it's heavier than it looks so definitely worth it. More of it on each door and on the roof.:

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Sunroof, rear windshield washer fluid line, lighting and associated wiring:

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Front passenger door - notice the chrome-looking patch, which must add 0.5 lbs to each door:

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Driver's side door - If you look closely you can see that you can keep all electronics intact, though the mood lighting didn't make the cut here:

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Fully packed trunk after the plastic purge:

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If anyone has any ideas for keeping a few airbags in the car, and/or having a functional stereo without the entire instrumental panel, let me know what you have in mind. It is likely going to make an abrupt exit from the car over the winter, despite my hesitations.

More on some parts installs in the next few weeks when they arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Posted this elsewhere, but posting here for documentation and in hopes of someone chiming in with experience or advice.

TB Performance crash bar is in the mail. What should I know before I start removing the OEM crash bar? No idea whether this is relevant but trying to avoid upsetting any collision detecting sensors that may be in the vicinity of the bar. For sure there will be some welding involved to make sure the TB bar mates up with the intercooler support bracket and my repositioned ECU by the driver's front wheel well.

Here are some pictures below of what seems to have to be disconnected.

Passenger side:
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What should I know about this connection? Seems to be alot going on..
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Intercooler support bracket:
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Driver's side, with repositioned ECU:
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Driver's side - intercooler bracket and ECU bracket:
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OEM crash bar before disassembly:
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Will be tackling this 3-4 weeks from now. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 
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