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You guys ever messed around with aftermarket remote start kits? Friend wants one on her ‘15 IS350. What’s a good one to get?
 

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You guys ever messed around with aftermarket remote start kits? Friend wants one on her ‘15 IS350. What’s a good one to get?
If you have a 13 or 14,i would recommend a Compustar 7200 based system. However if you have a 15+, nobody has released (and I don't think they are going to) firmware for 15+ focuses with push to start.

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If you have a 13 or 14,i would recommend a Compustar 7200 based system. However if you have a 15+, nobody has released (and I don't think they are going to) firmware for 15+ focuses with push to start.

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I think he was looking for one for a Lexus...
Indeed, the IS350 is a Lexus
 

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Sorry yeah I missed that, I don't know why I though you said that your friend "had" one...

Then there is no problem putting a RS on a toyota/lexus.

At my shop, Compustar systems have been the best designed and most reliable systems for a few years now. I was hopeful for vipers new system they released this fall but unfortunately it has had nothing but problems (similar to their last new system)

You will need to check out prices in your local area. But at a minimum, you need to talk to the shop and make sure that they are doing proper wire taps with solder and not using any T-taps.

The CS system is basically like Legos, you get the main system and then choose what kind (range) of remotes to go with or if you want smart phone control.

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That’s another, separate issue I have with this market...looking for prices hasn’t been difficult. I don’t want/need a dealer for install. That’s interesting however; first bad word I’ve heard yet about Viper.
 

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Getting one with out install is very difficult as part of the vendor agreement is that it needs to be sold AND installed but a certified dealer for it to be covered under warranty and they won't sell directly to anyone that won't do the install. You might be able to talk a small time shop into just selling it to you but most places POS systems won't even let it get rang out with out labor (my stores system for example automatically packages the labor with the product, and you used to be able to remove the labor (with out changing the price) that is no longer an option.

Also you need to be very careful buying from a non authorized dealer as most of them are buying reconditioned products, and I would never use a reconditioned RS system as most problems they have are intermittent and are never found or verified...

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Just of you get a Viper, make sure it's an older system (like a 4806v) and not a 4x10/5x10. And I would definitely stay clear of a Viper DS4 or DS4+ for a year or so until all of these bugs get worked out.

On eBay you can easily get a compustar 7200 brain for under $40, a "blade" bypass is around $50 and then choose what remotes you want, the Slice JR is a nice small one button 2way remote with good range for under $80.

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Also just looked up that car in my system, if it's PTS (I think they all are) and automatic transmission,then you can do what's called RSR (remote start ready) where you don't use a remote start system, just a bypass module to trick the car into starting itself. Either the directed (Viper) DBall 2 or the ALCA (compustar) will work, although you will need a dealers program tool to flash either of them (same with the remote start system)

The iDatalink ALCA can be had for around $40 online, and you use it by pressing the lock button on the OEM fob 3 times, you can also add a standard compustar remote kit to them for added range.

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Well interesting enough I just used a ALCA to add remote start to a lexus (ES350) today. It was literally one of the easiest installs I've ever done. Three wires at the back of the fuse box, two wires are the OBD connector next to the fuse box, grab power at the front of the fuse box and ground it next to the fuse box.

All in all it was about a 30 min install and was very similar to a lot do the newer lexus I've done. This is easily the best way to add RS to lexus and likely the cheapest possible.


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Just looked it up and looks like the new IS isn't quite as simple, but it's not too much harder...


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Thanks for all the great info dude!!. I think she’d rather have something that would work through a smart phone app instead of rigging something up like this last option.
 

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If you have a 13 or 14,i would recommend a Compustar 7200 based system. However if you have a 15+, nobody has released (and I don't think they are going to) firmware for 15+ focuses with push to start.

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So NFW are they going to have a RS avail for a 15 and up ST? That sucks I always wanted one. What's the issue preventing it?
 

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So NFW are they going to have a RS avail for a 15 and up ST? That sucks I always wanted one. What's the issue preventing it?
No body is making firmware for only the Push To Start 15+ focus and escape.

I've badgered the hell out of the software guys at both companies... The reason they say they are not making the firmware is because of how the PTS system works, it emulates pushing the button, and they say that if somebody was to accidentally press the RS button while the car was being driven down the road, it could shut the car off and cause an accident. Multiple times I have informed them that this is not true because as long as they keep the PTS pulse down under a second, it won't shut off the engine unless the car is stopped since once the car is moving, the PTS button needs to be pressed down for three seconds before it will shut off the engine.





! Warning the following is untested theory and is not failproof safe!





At the last training show we had with them, I had a nice long sidebar with the compustar guy and we think it can be done with a lot of BS work around and the system/install would not be perfect and it goes with out saying that this is a "do it at your own risk" kinda thing

On top of the RS system of your choice, you will need to get 2 programmable delay relays (about $20 ea on Amazon) and some sort of voltage reducer to drop voltage down from 12v to 3v (the battery could be used but sooner or later would die and need replacement)

First, the biggest problem is since there is no bypass firmware, you will need to take an extra key and bury it behind the dashboard. For the bypass, you will need to remove the battery from the remote, then solder wires to the battery's contacts, then use what you got for a voltage reducer to those wires, then use the first delay relay programmed to like 10 seconds(the exact some will depend on which system you use and that systems timing) to power the voltage reducer trigger off of a pulse and use the RS systems ignition 2 wire to trigger the delay relay. This will be your home made bypass module, when the RS activates, it will power up the key for 10 seconds (or what ever you set it to) and the car will recognize a valid key and be allowed to start.

Then you have to use the systems Starter wire to connect to the cars start/stop button

Then you have to use the 2nd delay relay programmed to provide a 4 second pulse after the trigger wire loses voltage, then hook that trigger wire up to the systems ignition 1 wire with a diode isolating it, the output wires of the relay will need to go to the same start/stop button wore from above you will also need to run another wire from that same systems ignition wire with another diode isolating it and run it to the cars ignition wire so the system can sense when the ignition is being turned on and off for programming.

You will need to run the systems negative "2nd starter" wire under the hood to the cars clutch wire. I can't remember without looking at the diagram if there are two clutch wires that need to be triggered (one for start of sleuth travel and one for full pedal travel)

Then wire the systems brake sense wire to the cars brake wire, You will also need to wire in the cars door trigger wire to the systems brake wire (again using diodes to isolate both of the cars wires)

and also make the connections for the cars lock and unlock wires. This should be enough to get the system to function.

Pressing the RS button will power up the key when it energizes the ignition wires, then a few seconds later the start pulse will make the car think that the clutch is being pressed and then "push" the start/stop button. The car will then start itself up, when the run time is up or when the brake is pressed (important if somebody tries to drive off in the car) and the systems ignition wire shuts off, 2nd delay relay will press the start/stop button again and shuts off the car with a long enough press to stop the car even if it is being driven (the safety issue that makes this try at your own risk) if you go out to the car while it's still running, when you open the door, the cars door trigger wire fakes a brake press that also shuts off the car, then the car will see your normal key powered on and you get in the car and start it like normal.

Long story short, it's doable in theory. But I haven't had the balls to try it yet and see what quirks we haven't though of yet that will still need to be ironed out...

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No body is making firmware for only the Push To Start 15+ focus and escape.

I've badgered the hell out of the software guys at both companies... The reason they say they are not making the firmware is because of how the PTS system works, it emulates pushing the button, and they say that if somebody was to accidentally press the RS button while the car was being driven down the road, it could shut the car off and cause an accident. Multiple times I have informed them that this is not true because as long as they keep the PTS pulse down under a second, it won't shut off the engine unless the car is stopped since once the car is moving, the PTS button needs to be pressed down for three seconds before it will shut off the engine.





! Warning the following is untested theory and is not failproof safe!





At the last training show we had with them, I had a nice long sidebar with the compustar guy and we think it can be done with a lot of BS work around and the system/install would not be perfect and it goes with out saying that this is a "do it at your own risk" kinda thing

On top of the RS system of your choice, you will need to get 2 programmable delay relays (about $20 ea on Amazon) and some sort of voltage reducer to drop voltage down from 12v to 3v (the battery could be used but sooner or later would die and need replacement)

First, the biggest problem is since there is no bypass firmware, you will need to take an extra key and bury it behind the dashboard. For the bypass, you will need to remove the battery from the remote, then solder wires to the battery's contacts, then use what you got for a voltage reducer to those wires, then use the first delay relay programmed to like 10 seconds(the exact some will depend on which system you use and that systems timing) to power the voltage reducer trigger off of a pulse and use the RS systems ignition 2 wire to trigger the delay relay. This will be your home made bypass module, when the RS activates, it will power up the key for 10 seconds (or what ever you set it to) and the car will recognize a valid key and be allowed to start.

Then you have to use the systems Starter wire to connect to the cars start/stop button

Then you have to use the 2nd delay relay programmed to provide a 4 second pulse after the trigger wire loses voltage, then hook that trigger wire up to the systems ignition 1 wire with a diode isolating it, the output wires of the relay will need to go to the same start/stop button wore from above you will also need to run another wire from that same systems ignition wire with another diode isolating it and run it to the cars ignition wire so the system can sense when the ignition is being turned on and off for programming.

You will need to run the systems negative "2nd starter" wire under the hood to the cars clutch wire. I can't remember without looking at the diagram if there are two clutch wires that need to be triggered (one for start of sleuth travel and one for full pedal travel)

Then wire the systems brake sense wire to the cars brake wire, You will also need to wire in the cars door trigger wire to the systems brake wire (again using diodes to isolate both of the cars wires)

and also make the connections for the cars lock and unlock wires. This should be enough to get the system to function.

Pressing the RS button will power up the key when it energizes the ignition wires, then a few seconds later the start pulse will make the car think that the clutch is being pressed and then "push" the start/stop button. The car will then start itself up, when the run time is up or when the brake is pressed (important if somebody tries to drive off in the car) and the systems ignition wire shuts off, 2nd delay relay will press the start/stop button again and shuts off the car with a long enough press to stop the car even if it is being driven (the safety issue that makes this try at your own risk) if you go out to the car while it's still running, when you open the door, the cars door trigger wire fakes a brake press that also shuts off the car, then the car will see your normal key powered on and you get in the car and start it like normal.

Long story short, it's doable in theory. But I haven't had the balls to try it yet and see what quirks we haven't though of yet that will still need to be ironed out...

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Wow that's a helluva post. Lol. I don't have the balls to try that either, but thanks for writing that up. I'll bet somebody gives it a shot.
 

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Wow that's a helluva post. Lol. I don't have the balls to try that either, but thanks for writing that up. I'll bet somebody gives it a shot.
I will sooner or later. But then again, I really don't want to drive my car in all the garbage slush, snow and salt... I'll just drive my trusty rusty cavalier which already has a remote start!

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Thanks for all the great info dude!!. I think she’d rather have something that would work through a smart phone app instead of rigging something up like this last option.
no no no, its not a rig in any way... its just less parts needed ssince the car has a lot smarter system built into it like a lot of new cars do...

so first off, all remote starts need a bypass module (unless its a really old car that doesn't have any kind of immobilizer system aka mid to late 90s ford) FirstTech is the company that makes Compustar and iDatalink/ADS is the company that does all of the coding and firmware for a bunch of companies (and they make their own stuff like the Maestro brand of interfaces and smart dash kits) so anything compustar that has a "FT" in the model number is the compustar version aka FT-7200s (FirstTech)(7200 brain)(S for just starter) now since idatalink makes parts for a bunch of brands there are a bunch of different products that are exactly the same thing... first off the "blade" is a special version of their bypass, functionally speaking it is exactly the same thing as the ALCA, with the one difference being that the Blade is made to dock into a slot inside the 7200 (and older models too) body but it is the same CAN controller that is in the ALCA with the same firmware.


so a standard RS system has a brain that controls everything including the timing and the starting process, and it interfaces with the bypass and the bypass hacks the computer system in the car and controls everything over data via the CAN BUS system.

most modern cars are extremely computer controlled and that Lexus is light year ahead of anything Ford is doing... old cars you had to hold the key forward until the car was started and then let go... these new cars (even cars with standard keys that you turn) actually fully start themselves, all you have to do is command it to do so, therefore a lot of the time, the "brain" is no longer needed. so now they add a little extra programming and functionality to the bypass module. and now when its commanded to do so, it will still hack the cars computer system and make the car start itself, it just doesn't need to be told to do this by the brain as it has all the programming to do so inside of itself...

this new bypass module AS the remote start process is called RSR (Remote Start Ready) by Directed(Viper) for cars that can control their own starting and are "ready" or just called Stand alone mode for compustar/idatalink, it is also sometimes refereed to as 3xLock (three times lock) by a lot of installers because of how it works

so with RSR, you now need to command the car to start, well by default and with nothing else to buy, it reads and monitors the cars data bus system and when it sees the factory remote command the locks three times in a short period of time (you pressing "lock" on the remote three times in a row) it will activate and start the car. you can also take most of compustar remote kits and plug the antenna directly into the bypasses data port (when the brain would normally plug into) and then you can use their remotes/fobs to activate the starter or control the locks or pop the trunk(if the remote has those buttons), you can also plug in the same smart phone adapter that works with the main systems right into the bypasses data port giving you unlimited range and full control of the car (along with GPS tracking if you pay for that subscription service).



so if the lexus was my car, I would buy a idatalink ALCA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/IdataLink-ADS-AL-CA-64K-Multi-Platform-Immobilizer-Bypass-ADSALCA-/121199867528
this is the current model

program it to stand alone mode (i believe the firmware is RS-TL7 but would have to double check)

then if she wants to control it from her phone, get the Drone Mobile add on (DR3400)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Drone-Mobile-Compustar-DR3400-Smartphone-Add-On-Module-Brand-NEW/362085471745?epid=2255400614&hash=item544df9d601:g:SYgAAOSw0xRZpc1D



the drone service will cost about $60 a year for basic service (full control without GPS tracking) and she will still be able to start the car without the phone by pressing the lock button three times.

as mentioned you will need to have the device programmed, you can do this by paying a dealer like Best Buy to do it for you (a bribe with pizza almost always works... #JustSaying) or you can just create your own free account with idatalink/ads/weblink and buy one of these program tools and program it yourself

https://www.ebay.com/itm/iDatalink-ADS-USB-Weblink-Updater-Computer-Cable-ADSUSB-BRAND-NEW/201966018790?epid=1424478343&hash=item2f061ce0e6:g:8owAAOSwoJZXR230&vxp=mtr


best part yet, the install is so much easier than putting a huge RS system back there with a lot more wires... once programmed, the install should only take 30 mins or so if you know what you are doing... also when doing this, you don't need to hook up the top two wires in that diagram and you shouldn't have to hook up the bottom wire either (I haven't had a Lexus yet with out its own hood pin) so its only 7 wires is three locations (that are all right next to each other) and a ground wire.



look at it this way
from best buy, a RS1B-al is about $300 including installation (that you don't need and they can't sell it without) then the Drone add on is $150 with install (again, you don't need... they cant sell without)
so thats $450 plus tax all in

or you can buy an ALCA ($49), a Drone DR3400($100) and a ADS-USB programmer ($29) and have the same thing for only $178 all in and not waste any money on installation since you will do it yourself...

seems to me the choice is simple
 

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Have had 2 Crimestopper Alram/Remote start systems in my Evo, Both worked flawlessly. I upgraded my 10yr old model 2-way unit for for a 1-way with many layers of security a couple wired into the unit and a few more stand alone.

Range for remote start and unlocking is great, 2 of my freins went out and got the same Unit since. I was going to get a viper unit but he didn't have one in stock and I wanted it done right away, plus he cut me a insane deal as there was already a crime stopper unit in the car so made his install a little easier. Even with the extras I had him add in
 
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