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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a preferred brand of oil for the guys that track their cars? Or is any full synthetic going to do the job.

I'm new here, and I see so many threads about cooling and brakes, but none on oil brands/types for the track.

The previous owner used Mobil 1 for the first 20k miles of the car(1st change @ 1000 then every 5 to 6k after). I don't mind spending more on something nicer, but if you guys run any fresh synthetic and have no issues, I won't bother.

FWIW I'm not new to HPDE, just the Focus. Car is to remain stock, with a separate set of pads rotors for the track and MBF 600. Sounds like the front mount inter-cooler is a good idea, and maybe an oil cooler as well. There is a slight chance I will do intake/exhaust/mild tune down the line but nothing crazy. I come from the spec Miata world so power is not something I need to add.

I pick up the car tomorrow and am beyond stoked! It's a beautiful 2016 Shadow ST3.
 

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Is there a preferred brand of oil for the guys that track their cars? Or is any full synthetic going to do the job.

I'm new here, and I see so many threads about cooling and brakes, but none on oil brands/types for the track.

The previous owner used Mobil 1 for the first 20k miles of the car(1st change @ 1000 then every 5 to 6k after). I don't mind spending more on something nicer, but if you guys run any fresh synthetic and have no issues, I won't bother.

FWIW I'm not new to HPDE, just the Focus. Car is to remain stock, with a separate set of pads rotors for the track and MBF 600. Sounds like the front mount inter-cooler is a good idea, and maybe an oil cooler as well. There is a slight chance I will do intake/exhaust/mild tune down the line but nothing crazy. I come from the spec Miata world so power is not something I need to add.

I pick up the car tomorrow and am beyond stoked! It's a beautiful 2016 Shadow ST3.
Congrats dude!

I run Mobil 1 5w30 and have had no issues at all running real hard with an oil cooler and some cooling ducts.

I know some guys run some slightly heavier weights but I haven’t found the need; however I am on a stock tune (just suspension/brakes/tires for me- plenty of power). I wouldn’t think you would need a heavier weight unless you are in extreme temp areas...

I would recommend a fmic and an oil cooler if you plan on not having a heart attack while looking at temps but maybe that’s just me. Opening up the front grill and adding shrouding really helps (but that is a commitment).




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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome man, great to hear! Guess I'll stick with good ol' Mobil 1. I have also heard the Mobil 1 brand oil filters are pretty good as well...but that's a topic for another thread that I assume already exists, this being a car forum.

I definitely have FMIC on the eventual list just for the cooling aspect. Oil cooler as well but that's a bit down the road. Do you notice the car taking long to warm up on cold mornings with an oil cooler? Random question I know, just curious.
 

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Awesome man, great to hear! Guess I'll stick with good ol' Mobil 1. I have also heard the Mobil 1 brand oil filters are pretty good as well...but that's a topic for another thread that I assume already exists, this being a car forum.

I definitely have FMIC on the eventual list just for the cooling aspect. Oil cooler as well but that's a bit down the road. Do you notice the car taking long to warm up on cold mornings with an oil cooler? Random question I know, just curious.
No but my input could be skewed. I️ do have a thermostatic switch (*185) so I️ never noticed any issues. I️ would get a tstat- worth the money for a street car that sees occasional track time!


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I use whatever synthetic is on sale at the time I change my oil. If I am tracking the car I will change it more often. Typically I don't run more than 3 events on the same oil. So I'll either change it at 5k miles or if I am tracking, after 3 events. I'll also use the next weight up if I know I am tracking. If the car calls for 5w20 I'll run 5w30. This has worked great for me.

My '90 GT has about 110K miles on it. It has been a dedicated track car now for about 5 years. I run diesel synthetic 5w40 and car is running strong and has good blackstone lab reports. Key is to change oil more frequently when you track.
 
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I use whatever synthetic is on sale at the time I change my oil. If I am tracking the car I will change it more often. Typically I don't run more than 3 events on the same oil. So I'll either change it at 5k miles or if I am tracking, after 3 events. I'll also use the next weight up if I know I am tracking. If the car calls for 5w20 I'll run 5w30. This has worked great for me.

My '90 GT has about 110K miles on it. It has been a dedicated track car now for about 5 years. I run diesel synthetic 5w40 and car is running strong and has good blackstone lab reports. Key is to change oil more frequently when you track.
Nice! Diesel oil? I️ mean the diesel oil is designed for high load and turbo’d applications so why not!


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I have heard about people using deisel oil like Shell Rotella T6. A lot of e36 M3 guys run that when they track.




No but my input could be skewed. I️ do have a thermostatic switch (*185) so I️ never noticed any issues. I️ would get a tstat- worth the money for a street car that sees occasional track time!


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A tstat for the oil or water?
 

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Yes I have heard about people using deisel oil like Shell Rotella T6. A lot of e36 M3 guys run that when they track.






A tstat for the oil or water?
A Tatst for oil. The cooler apparently won’t flow until the oil reaches 185* which helps with warm up.

Sooo I️ guess I️ could just buy some oil when I️ get oil for my truck!


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah you could. I believe the rotella T6 is a 5W40 or something like that. I know the ST says 5W30 (20?) so your cold viscosity is the same but you get some more high temp (if that's how oil even works idk)
 

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I am using Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 Fully Synthetic 5W40 Oil. Switched from the stock for daily and track duties. Around 10,000km since the switch and never looked back. If a person only uses their car for daily driving. Stick to the recommended manufactures spec 0W-30 fully synthetic oil. Thanks but not for me. I would rather have some peace of mind.
 

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Ive been running the ford motorcraft full synth with no issues but will be switching to the castrol edge full synth going forward. i would be more concerned with swapping out your brake fluid on track days for something with a higher boiling point like either motul 600 / 660 or castrol srf.
 

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Just make sure you are using an oil that meets SN+
 
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Someone on here did a very in depth oil analysis and found the 0w-30 Pennzoil ULTRA platinum to be the notable best choice.
Pardon me for not finding the exact thread but it was very through. Its what I run and suggest for aggressive daily use. Apparently handles High heat better than the others
 
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Ive been running the ford motorcraft full synth with no issues but will be switching to the castrol edge full synth going forward. i would be more concerned with swapping out your brake fluid on track days for something with a higher boiling point like either motul 600 / 660 or castrol srf.
I used to use Motorcraft's synth. Honestly not super pleased with it when I tore down my motor, but my motor was pretty ragged on before I even got the car so idrk. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum performs very well and always looks great in catch can / dip stick samples.

I've got DOT3 in stainless brake lines. looking to do events in florida soon ( just moved here) how big of a priority should it be to change to something higher before I run?
(Eyeballing Homestead or Palm beach international for SCCA events)
 

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I have done a few changes with the Amsoil Signature series, but mostly run the XL-Boosted formula (always 5W-30 weight). It shows the SP rating/usage, but the XL-Boosted has the SN+ in bold.

Never run them as long as suggested (Blackstone says 10k is fine with active additives). It's a hard habit to break, changing oil less frequently 😅

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I have done a few changes with the Amsoil Signature series, but mostly run the XL-Boosted formula (always 5W-30 weight). It shows the SP rating/usage, but the XL-Boosted has the SN+ in bold.

Never run them as long as suggested (Blackstone says 10k is fine with active additives). It's a hard habit to break, changing oil less frequently 😅

View attachment 396126
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Will the oil filter last that long with effective filtration? Eventually, the oil filter will get saturated and the relief valve will start opening during high volume/pressure operation, bypassing the filtration route.
 
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Will the oil filter last that long with effective filtration? Eventually, the oil filter will get saturated and the relief valve will start opening during high volume/pressure operation, bypassing the filtration route.
Yeah, that's a solid point! The 'standard extended use' filter I think are 15k miles, but I'm not going out to the garage to snap a pic and then change to my phone to post it :p I can update later, but they sell 3 different oil filters for the ST: 1 is a Wix filter (less mileage), 1 is a 'normal' extended use one (the one I typically buy, but I have a Wix one sitting there too), and the other is something I can't recall ATM. I think the last one was the 'extra long' use or something... Like I said, it's just hard to beat the snot out of a car and not worry about oil changes and engine particles. Reminds me that I need a new oil drain plug with a magnet just in case, haha.

I haven't found anything better yet, and for only a few bucks more it's peace of mind. Just like running a higher octane, even though you don't 'need' to imho.
 
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Usually I use Mobil 1, since I change the oil every 2.5k miles any synthetic API SP oil on sale will be fine. Before the oil breakdown becomes an issue, is already out off the engine. I have an oil cooler, some old oil will remains after an oil change. The science behind the synthetic oils is that the base carbon molecule can be tailored to an specific link size. If the link is too short it change to gas easily and is gone. If the link is too long and heavier it burns and became a carbon particle . The regular mineral oils are a mixed bag of carbon molecules.
 
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