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I've always wondered what each 10mm of tire is worth around say a 45-second course. Of course a lot of factors go into something like that, but I would take a guess at .2-.5 seconds.
Examining my data, I've come to the conclusion that 255 vs 245 RE-71R tires on our 8" wide rims generate about 0.05 more G-force in dry sweepers. I know I can feel G-force difference at about 0.03, so it is noticeable, but barely. Mainly when you expect the tires to stick they will slide a bit further than you expect.

What's that worth in time? Far less than the noise of what times we're able to repeat between runs. For myself, it mainly showed up as more cones hit.

A budget-minded autocrosser can certainly run competitively on 245s at the local level. It's not clear to me if 245s are less expensive in the long run because they might wear faster... I'll have a better handle on that when this set wears out. The 255s I just wore out lasted an amazing 143 runs without cording!

245s vs. 255s in the wet. No difference that I could discern and, while my analytical brain wants to say that the 245s are supposed to be better, I actually preferred the 255s.
 

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I have only used the standard tyre size but, have used 3 different brands over the years.
F1s were good.
Nitto INVOs were disappointing.
Contisport 5s were slightly better than the F1s.

It never rains here so, my opinion is based on dry tarmac and temperatures between 65F and 120F
 

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What the hell were you doing to them?!? I put 137 autox runs and 5000 miles on the OEM F1 tires and they still had 70% tread.
Agreed. I didn't autox the car, neither did the previous owner but we both drove hard for a total of 18000 miles on the OEM F1 Asymmetric 2. Hitting wear bars at 8000 sounds like you did some burnouts.
 

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No burn outs. Driven hard on hot tarmac (Florida). My daily commute has 4 or 5 good corners each way, I take advantage when traffic allows. Very few of those 8000 are highway miles. It could be an alignment issue from the factory as well. When I replace them I'll also have it aligned so I'll find out. Trying to make them last past Christmas.
 

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No burn outs. Driven hard on hot tarmac (Florida). My daily commute has 4 or 5 good corners each way, I take advantage when traffic allows. Very few of those 8000 are highway miles. It could be an alignment issue from the factory as well. When I replace them I'll also have it aligned so I'll find out. Trying to make them last past Christmas.
If toe is out of line, especially in the rears, you can eat tires up fast. If camber is out of spec with it, it'll wear even faster. Regular rotations will help as well. I'm assuming it was only on the inside edge that saw wear bars and not a flat/even wear across the tire.
 

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If toe is out of line, especially in the rears, you can eat tires up fast. If camber is out of spec with it, it'll wear even faster. Regular rotations will help as well. I'm assuming it was only on the inside edge that saw wear bars and not a flat/even wear across the tire.
Even wear which is why I just figured I'm hard on tires and F1s are a crappy compound. It alsondoesnt have any handling characteristics of poor alignment (well balanced, doesnt dart or wander, surprising grip for a 300TW). An instructor at Octane Academy indicated they were running Perelli instead of F1s because they are "a much better tire". I took that to mean F1s would wear too fast for a free HPD class.
 

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Arguably you could get Re-71s that will beat PSS's around a autocross course all day, or if you go to actual tracks and beat your tires and car to a pulp often then Nitto NT01 will reign over them, but if you commute like me then dishing out for a set of Re-71s every single year or NT01's probably after less than 10k miles? That isn't much fun...UNLESS you want them for that purpose...your call.
I think the RE-71R's are probably about as fast around a road course as NT-01's. But NT-01 deal with heat better and will last longer on a track. RE-71R's are better in the wet.

But for ultimate stick you want Slicks or Hoosier A7's.

I agree that compound and construction is more important to size. But unless you have some specific size limitation, go bigger for more grip. Sometimes the bigger size is even cheaper.
 

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I see they arent talked about much and given my speed6 is awd, but the continental extremeconti i think dws6 or something are some decent all around performance tires they gripped amazing and i never noticed myself ever slipping or slidding, even in the rain i could sit at a stop sign with the wheel turn to the right drop the clutch in 1st at about 3500rpms and it wouldnt do anything but throw ya sideways and push ya forward its so much...not that i do that in populated areas
 

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I'm about to get my second set of RE-71Rs even though the first set hit the wear bars at about 7.5k miles. Daily drivers, no autocross. Use them from March to Nov here in NC and got two seasons out of them. I only drive 7k miles a year so I figure I might as well make them fun miles. The ONLY drawback, and it's not huge to me, is that the tire noise is as loud as a pickup truck tire for on/off road purposes. You forget about that noise the first time you hit a turn at speed. If only they'd last as long as RE-11's used to! The lateral grip on these tires is awesome and I get a lot less wheelspin than I did on the OEMs. They're worth the money.
 

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Firestone indy 500 on stock wheels and jbr rear bar. 30 psi front 28 rear. Handles great. Bought 17" wheels with10 mm more off set and pss tires 20 mo. ago. Handled worse and torque steered bad. Will be gettin my secound set Indy 500 soon almost 30 k on first set.Past wear bars now still good in wet.So happy I'm not even studying any other tire.
 

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I'm on the same tire, and even though
Firestone indy 500 on stock wheels and jbr rear bar. 30 psi front 28 rear. Handles great. Bought 17" wheels with10 mm more off set and pss tires 20 mo. ago. Handled worse and torque steered bad. Will be gettin my secound set Indy 500 soon almost 30 k on first set.Past wear bars now still good in wet.So happy I'm not even studying any other tire.

I knew they'd wear quick, I think they wore quicker than I expected. Is psi as large a factor in this as I think? Like, at 40 psi, will they wear much quicker than 30 psi?
 

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I'm about to get my second set of RE-71Rs even though the first set hit the wear bars at about 7.5k miles. Daily drivers, no autocross. Use them from March to Nov here in NC and got two seasons out of them. I only drive 7k miles a year so I figure I might as well make them fun miles. The ONLY drawback, and it's not huge to me, is that the tire noise is as loud as a pickup truck tire for on/off road purposes. You forget about that noise the first time you hit a turn at speed. If only they'd last as long as RE-11's used to! The lateral grip on these tires is awesome and I get a lot less wheelspin than I did on the OEMs. They're worth the money.
What tire pressure are you running on the RE-71R's?
 

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What the hell were you doing to them?!? I put 137 autox runs and 5000 miles on the OEM F1 tires and they still had 70% tread.
Okay, I'm confused. I got some near mint indy 500's, and ran 'em down to near death in a month.
 

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I'm on the same tire, and even though



I knew they'd wear quick, I think they wore quicker than I expected. Is psi as large a factor in this as I think? Like, at 40 psi, will they wear much quicker than 30 psi?
At 40 psi they will wear out in the center.The Indy's have strong enough side wall to run 30-32 psi.A big rsb really helps front tires.
 

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At 40 psi they will wear out in the center.The Indy's have strong enough side wall to run 30-32 psi.A big rsb really helps front tires.
Oh wow! Yeah, I think I ran 40.

I have the bar that came with this car at 100,000 miles, it's an Eibach (red), just like the front, and just like the lowering springs.
 
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