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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I will start by introducing myself. My name is Kenny and I'm new to the forums. I own a tangerine scream 2013 FOST st3. I am the second owner of the car to my knowledge. I had a few different questions regarding this car and feel free to move this post where it is the most relevant. Since purchasing the car about a year ago this car has had its share of gremlins. I had to replace the clutch about a week after owning it, ( no big deal and peace of mind knowing there is a new one installed). My biggest issue with this car has by far been gas mileage. I haven't been able to get a live 17.5mph even after resetting. I do mostly in town driving while still getting on the interstate once a week. Yesterday I lifted the car and while working underneath it I tried to free spin the two front wheels.


Both wheels scrape about a third of the way through a rotation and that scrape or drag lasts about 1/3 of a rotation. What could be the causes of this? Warped rotor? Mis-aligned or stuck caliper? I'm a relative novice when it comes to repairs but I do know my way around a car decently. Besides this dragging issue is there other places I can look to help ? Obviously I want to get rid of the drag but wondering if injectors or spark plugs could play a role in my poor gas mileage.

My second question is what to do about my battery light being on? I changed to a non-motor craft battery from advance auto roughly 6months ago. Car starts reliably but that light has been on since the change. It used to be intermittent now it's always on. (Possible bad voltage regulator?)

My final question for now involves my odometer. The on screen odometer shows roughly 46000 miles. When I start my car in test mode and scroll through it it says my mileage is 79000. That's a huge disparity and is rather alarming to me. I hope I haven't been sold a lemon and I do want to continue working with this car as I'm making payments on it. Is there any reason that the mileage in test mode would be so different from the Key -on mileage?


Thanks for any help I really appreciate it.
I'm considering doing a full brake job and looking at injectors and spark plugs. Any cheaper fixes are definitely welcome!

Thanks again everyone!
 

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Well, I can help you with the odometer reading; in test mode it is in kilometers. As far as the battery light and gas mileage...??? I would have the starting system checked out and would check the spark plugs and make sure they are properly gap at .025 to .028. That mileage is really bad and I don't think spark plugs alone would cause it. Disc brakes always rub a little, but dragging 1/3 rotation does not sound right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your replies. Forgive me for asking a noob question what does AGS stand for? As far as the starting system am I looking at voltages of the alternator under load? What else can I look for? I had no idea the discs drag. I come from a background on road bicycles and we always adjusted so there was no drag I figured a car was even more important to not have drag. I'm just trying to diagnose this bad mileage and find a better solution to everything going on.
 

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Thank you for your replies. Forgive me for asking a noob question what does AGS stand for? As far as the starting system am I looking at voltages of the alternator under load? What else can I look for? I had no idea the discs drag. I come from a background on road bicycles and we always adjusted so there was no drag I figured a car was even more important to not have drag. I'm just trying to diagnose this bad mileage and find a better solution to everything going on.
Active Grille Shutters. If they are unplugged, fuse pulled or missing the battery light comes on.
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/7081-battery-light-came-today.html
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/33219-14-st3-battery-light.html
 

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Thank you for your replies. Forgive me for asking a noob question what does AGS stand for? As far as the starting system am I looking at voltages of the alternator under load? What else can I look for? I had no idea the discs drag. I come from a background on road bicycles and we always adjusted so there was no drag I figured a car was even more important to not have drag. I'm just trying to diagnose this bad mileage and find a better solution to everything going on.
Unlike drum brakes that have springs to pull the pads away from the drum after letting off of the brake pedal, disc brake pads will more or less maintain their position because there is nothing to pull them away from the rotor. Once you let off of the pedal the hydraulic pressure will no longer hold the pads against the rotor, they should not "drag" though and the wheel should turn freely. Unless your bicycle has hydraulic brakes they will behave differently than the brakes on your car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your reply!i will definitely look into that. The battery light didn't start until after the battery change so I'm wondering if there was something I did wrong during the change! Thanks for the clarification of the acronym!
Thank you for your replies. Forgive me for asking a noob question what does AGS stand for? As far as the starting system am I looking at voltages of the alternator under load? What else can I look for? I had no idea the discs drag. I come from a background on road bicycles and we always adjusted so there was no drag I figured a car was even more important to not have drag. I'm just trying to diagnose this bad mileage and find a better solution to everything going on.
Active Grille Shutters. If they are unplugged, fuse pulled or missing the battery light comes on.
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/7081-battery-light-came-today.html
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/33219-14-st3-battery-light.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the reply! I guess what I was saying related to my bike brakes was that if it was rubbing in certain sections only that was usually an indication that the disc was warped or the wheel out of true straight. For a car I was thinking maybe that the pads could be adjusted . I realize in saying that thought that the pistons retiring allow the brake pads to return to where they are supposed to be in a non breaking application. The drag only happening in certain points makes me thing that maybe the rotors are warped? Or possibly a stick caliper?
Thank you for your replies. Forgive me for asking a noob question what does AGS stand for? As far as the starting system am I looking at voltages of the alternator under load? What else can I look for? I had no idea the discs drag. I come from a background on road bicycles and we always adjusted so there was no drag I figured a car was even more important to not have drag. I'm just trying to diagnose this bad mileage and find a better solution to everything going on.
Unlike drum brakes that have springs to pull the pads away from the drum after letting off of the brake pedal, disc brake pads will more or less maintain their position because there is nothing to pull them away from the rotor. Once you let off of the pedal the hydraulic pressure will no longer hold the pads against the rotor, they should not "drag" though and the wheel should turn freely. Unless your bicycle has hydraulic brakes they will behave differently than the brakes on your car.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I guess what I was saying related to my bike brakes was that if it was rubbing in certain sections only that was usually an indication that the disc was warped or the wheel out of true straight. For a car I was thinking maybe that the pads could be adjusted . I realize in saying that thought that the pistons retiring allow the brake pads to return to where they are supposed to be in a non breaking application. The drag only happening in certain points makes me thing that maybe the rotors are warped? Or possibly a stick caliper?
Those are both possibilities; but since it is not doing it all of the time I would lean toward warped rotor.
 

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Unlike drum brakes that have springs to pull the pads away from the drum after letting off of the brake pedal, disc brake pads will more or less maintain their position because there is nothing to pull them away from the rotor. Once you let off of the pedal the hydraulic pressure will no longer hold the pads against the rotor, they should not "drag" though and the wheel should turn freely. Unless your bicycle has hydraulic brakes they will behave differently than the brakes on your car.
just an o ring pulls them back a hair
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unlike drum brakes that have springs to pull the pads away from the drum after letting off of the brake pedal, disc brake pads will more or less maintain their position because there is nothing to pull them away from the rotor. Once you let off of the pedal the hydraulic pressure will no longer hold the pads against the rotor, they should not "drag" though and the wheel should turn freely. Unless your bicycle has hydraulic brakes they will behave differently than the brakes on your car.
just an o ring pulls them back a hair
Do you happen to know where to place the o ring and what size ? I appreciate the help!
 
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