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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Went to get a custom tune to find out that my BCS possibly went bad. I wasn't able to get over 15psi. I've since changed it and can't get over 17psi. I should be hitting 23psi. No boost leaks. BCS was installed proper. I added a video of the sound
 

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Have you checked your charge pipes? One might have come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you checked your charge pipes? One might have come loose.
It was a leak on the downpipe to the turbo. I still can't get passed 16psi. I don't have any boost leaks. I've replaced the bottom BCS, tomorrow I'll change out the top. So you have any ideas what else could cause my car not to pass 16psi.
 

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I would still check all my piping. Have you check the BPV or are running an aftermarket BOV? Anything after the turbo IE downpipe would be an exhaust leak.
 

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Check the vacuum line routing and connections? I had a similar issue that turned out the manufacturer told me to hook up the vac lines the WRONG WAY! The BPV was losing its proper boost reference and venting all my air.

On the other hand that noise sounds kinda violent. Check for turbo shaft play???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would still check all my piping. Have you check the BPV or are running an aftermarket BOV? Anything after the turbo IE downpipe would be an exhaust leak.
I have a Tial QR since I'm big turbo. All pipping is good. All connections are good... The car has been in a performance shop for going on a week tomorrow. They also can't seem to figure out what the issue is... I'm waiting to hear back if it was the BCS on the top.
 

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We're splitting hairs here, but the top solenoid isn't a BCS (Boost Control Solenoid). Unlike the BCS which has the ability to control valve position variably, the top solenoid can only be on or off, nothing in between. Easy check here >>> Temporarily hook the vac line on your BOV to a Symposer delete or similar and see if it fixes things.
 

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Just a thought: Have you pressure tested your vacuum lines? It's not out of the question for one of the factory plastic hardlines to split.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We're splitting hairs here, but the top solenoid isn't a BCS (Boost Control Solenoid). Unlike the BCS which has the ability to control valve position variably, the top solenoid can only be on or off, nothing in between. Easy check here >>> Temporarily hook the vac line on your BOV to a Symposer delete or similar and see if it fixes things.
So it's not the same part on the top?
 

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Nope. The solenoids look similar on the outside since they are both of the 3-port variety but they are different parts.
 

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I was just thinking. If you somehow accidentally installed the wrong part, the operation is inverted! So if you have a Boost Control Solenoid installed up top, you'll be trying to hold the valve open under boost and slamming it shut on throttle lift. It would explain the crazy noises.

This also means there's a possibility you have the Bypass Valve Solenoid installed on your wastegate, which means your boost controls would also be inverted. NOT GOOD!

For the sake of your motor, DO NOT try the symposer delete test I suggested until you verify the parts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I was just thinking. If you somehow accidentally installed the wrong part, the operation is inverted! So if you have a Boost Control Solenoid installed up top, you'll be trying to hold the valve open under boost and slamming it shut on throttle lift. It would explain the crazy noises.

This also means there's a possibility you have the Bypass Valve Solenoid installed on your wastegate, which means your boost controls would also be inverted. NOT GOOD!

For the sake of your motor, DO NOT try the symposer delete test I suggested until you verify the parts!


Do you have the part number for the top part?


Also the sound ended up being a exhaust leak where the downpipe meets the turbo. As far as the boost txt I'll not sure. Although my car has been at the shop for a week now so I'm kinda upset about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Apparently they ordered that part and it should be here Tuesday.


My next question... The part that is capped off. If I'm running a guardian angel .. I would have to run that capped hose to the box. Then block off the symposer delete which is tapped to the Tial QR. Finally running a line from the QR to the box?


Thank you for your help by the way. It's more than the shop is giving me the moment.
 

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The capped port was temporary. I was troubleshooting a suspected failed solenoid. That port normally goes directly to the Bypass Valve.

For your Guardian Angel:
If you're retaining the OEM solenoid controls, capped port shown in my picture goes to the GA. Then from the GA to your BOV. Cap the symposer delete.

If you're NOT retaining the OEM solenoid, vac line goes from symposer delete to GA. Then from GA to BOV. Cap the OEM solenoid as shown in my pic.

Clear? I'd recommend you get your installation sorted before introducing the GA. You're adding another level of unnecessary troubleshooting to the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The capped port was temporary. I was troubleshooting a suspected failed solenoid. That port normally goes directly to the Bypass Valve.

For your Guardian Angel:
If you're retaining the OEM solenoid controls, capped port shown in my picture goes to the GA. Then from the GA to your BOV. Cap the symposer delete.

If you're NOT retaining the OEM solenoid, vac line goes from symposer delete to GA. Then from GA to BOV. Cap the OEM solenoid as shown in my pic.

Clear? I'd recommend you get your installation sorted before introducing the GA. You're adding another level of unnecessary troubleshooting to the mix.
Still waiting to hear back about my car. The shop I took it to lost the fob smh
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The capped port was temporary. I was troubleshooting a suspected failed solenoid. That port normally goes directly to the Bypass Valve.

For your Guardian Angel:
If you're retaining the OEM solenoid controls, capped port shown in my picture goes to the GA. Then from the GA to your BOV. Cap the symposer delete.

If you're NOT retaining the OEM solenoid, vac line goes from symposer delete to GA. Then from GA to BOV. Cap the OEM solenoid as shown in my pic.

Clear? I'd recommend you get your installation sorted before introducing the GA. You're adding another level of unnecessary troubleshooting to the mix.

Changed the top sensor. Same issue. You and Alex from strat mentioned the option of retaining the OEM solenoid. What is the other option to that?
 

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Changed the top sensor. Same issue. You and Alex from strat mentioned the option of retaining the OEM solenoid. What is the other option to that?
The other option is to hook the BOV to a symposer delete, or other similar means to tap the intake manifold. IMO, keeping the solenoid is a better idea since it can open the valve at-will. Manifold pressure will always hold it shut.

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you SURE the installation is correct? IMO, it's worth reviewing in detail. I can't tell you how many performance shops I've talked to that can't accurately describe how **** works.

Any recent logs? I'd like to see your WGDC compared to other parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The other option is to hook the BOV to a symposer delete, or other similar means to tap the intake manifold. IMO, keeping the solenoid is a better idea since it can open the valve at-will. Manifold pressure will always hold it shut.

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you SURE the installation is correct? IMO, it's worth reviewing in detail. I can't tell you how many performance shops I've talked to that can't accurately describe how **** works.

Any recent logs? I'd like to see your WGDC compared to other parameters.

WG was bad or rather probably messed with some how during install. I ordered a EWG and dump tube today. Do you have any recommendations on what springs to install?
 
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