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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
PHILADELPHIA REGION SCCA AUTOX AT PHILADELPHIA MILLS MALL SUNDAY MAY 23

For anyone interested, register at SCCA.com $15 for weekend reg. $100 for the year
$55 to enter the event!!!!!!

* They have Grandstands, if you just want to watch!
 

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LOL! I can feel the enthusiasm from here man =D I bet you're counting down the days!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, however... they had this event about a month ago, so i have seen the results from the STH class, and a fost got 5th of 5, i have an air filter, and big wheels:cautious:...1st 95 talon awd 2nd 17fist 3rd fiat abarth 4th 16 fist, has my exptns set low. Looking forward to the learning exp.

noob question for you joe, how much gas do you have in, to start with/maintain?? @Smokin' Joe
 

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Yikes... That sounds like a ridiculous class to mix AWD & FWD...

My typical approach is half a tank. Never want to run lean, but the additional weight is significant (like taking out the spare helps). You won't run out of gas, lol. I do bring a small 1-2 gallon of 93 octane with me, which usually goes to some poor shlub that wasn't prepared :)

I've watched a good driver on full-on bald tires in a FWD Civic hand AWD cars their arses in rallycrosses... Point being that goes to driver skill. I wouldn't even worry about the times or competition man. Just have fun, stay sharp, and learn a TON! Ask all the old pros some tips while you're b/s ing in the grid.

Oh, and monitor your tire pressure. I'd start with 37psi or so, but I'm not an avid auto-crosser...

@gemery please step in for the tarmac lovin' guy you are! =D
 
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Yikes... That sounds like a ridiculous class to mix AWD & FWD...
Honestly, it works. AWD are given the handicap of 245 tires and no LSD, whereas 2wd get 265 tires and an LSD. Nationally, in a class that started in 2018, no single car has emerged as the obvious choice out of the Audi TT, Subaru WRX, Mitsubishi Eclipse, VW GTI, Honda Civic Si, or FoST. Abarth and FiST are underpowered and can't fit maximum width tires, but can win with a good driver and course dependencies. VW Golf (2012-14) is basically the same as the Audi TT, but 200-300 lbs heavier, so only one known national build that has since been traded in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yikes... That sounds like a ridiculous class to mix AWD & FWD...

My typical approach is half a tank. Never want to run lean, but the additional weight is significant (like taking out the spare helps). You won't run out of gas, lol. I do bring a small 1-2 gallon of 93 octane with me, which usually goes to some poor shlub that wasn't prepared :)

I've watched a good driver on full-on bald tires in a FWD Civic hand AWD cars their arses in rallycrosses... Point being that goes to driver skill. I wouldn't even worry about the times or competition man. Just have fun, stay sharp, and learn a TON! Ask all the old pros some tips while you're b/s ing in the grid.

Oh, and monitor your tire pressure. I'd start with 37psi or so, but I'm not an avid auto-crosser...

@gemery please step in for the tarmac lovin' guy you are! =D
I was thinking a pint of gas lol jk. Also wanted to ask @gemery how much gas he started with/maintained?

Was given a digital pressure gauge by my old timer ford guy e.b.! Went with the PSI @gemery suggested 31.5 front, 34.5 rear, for some test driving(might have visited the coarse yesterday)
 

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Also wanted to ask @gemery how much gas he started with/maintained?
I use a full tank to avoid fuel sloshing around. 18-36 lbs of fuel going from one side of the car to the other in a slalom can be... unnerving. Fuel tank is down low, so full tank aids center of gravity. One of my testing opportunities convinced me I was no slower on a full tank and had more confidence without the fuel slosh. And before that there was a weird incident when fuel got down to 1/4 tank and then Pepper said she was out of fuel while autocrossing, registering nothing on the gauge; solved it that time by filling the tank and it never occurred again. Typical fuel consumption is 10-12 runs will burn 1/4 tank. YMMV ;)
 

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Nice. Yeah, I'm usually at the higher end of the tire PSI range, but that typically just lets me let air out until it 'feels good'. I didn't see where he posted those pressures, but I'm gonna try them just for shizz & giggles. I'm still trying to dial in some pretty crappy coilovers (which, if you're thinking of ever doing, get the Fortune 510's... Just do eeett!). I have the TB Performance torque strut brace and a (Steeda?) rear strut tower mount. Compared to my past cars, the FOST has some pretty beefy sway bars. The only difference is the shape, and the length of the end links... The front endlinks are actually hilarious to me 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
 
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I didn't see where he posted those pressures, but I'm gonna try them just for shizz & giggles.
That was over in my build thread, I think. Don't try that low unless you've got 9" wide rims.
 

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LOL, okay, thanks for the heads up @gemery! I'm all about tire patch, and letting the suspension components do the work/get adjusted. Tires heating up during an even is a real issue though. I went from 43/41 psi down to 38/36 in my last event and gained 2 seconds on my fastest lap *plus feeling the car out for entry/exit is a major help.

Just remember, 'Smooth is fast!'. The laps I felt slower I always surprise myself.
 

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Tires heating up during an even is a real issue though. I went from 43/41 psi down to 38/36 in my last event and gained 2 seconds on my fastest lap *plus feeling the car out for entry/exit is a major help.
Any suggestions on my PSI 245 19x8?? weather about 65 (33.5 front, btw) and ymmv??
Tire model is one of the factors in determining pressure. For the Bridgestone RE-71R, they lose significant grip above 38 psi in the front and are happy down in the 33-35 psi range, whereas 36-38 psi is a typical value for the Falken 660. In general, I like to start around 36 psi and check for rolling onto the sidewalls. Rears are a pound or two lower and really looking to balance with the fronts, to be comfortable under throttle lift oversteer, rather than seeking ultimate grip.
 
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