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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased an auto dim mirror on eBay for around $25. I am not really sure what kind of car it came from. It was a three wire, seven position plug style. I wanted this one, since I discovered the 3 position plug style was an older version. Just felt a newer one would be better. The three wires are power, ground and reverse lock out. I ran the wire for reverse, but did not bother hooking it up. I will see how much of a pain it is and decide on hooking it up later.

All I had to do was pull off the old mirror and snap the new one in its place. The hard part is pulling the panels off and running the wires. I made it a little easier by removing both sunvisors. Acc power (light blue/grey wire) and ground (air bag retaining bolt) were picked up in a loom running up the passenger side pillar. It has a weird safety clip at the top, which holds it in place if the airbags go off.

I still need to get a plastic cover to hide the wire, but all in all it looks and works great. I would give this a 3.5 on a scale of 1 - 10 of difficulty. Only because the panels make you pucker up when taking them off.

Wes





 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I started work on making a cover for the mirror wire. I looked at a few sites trying to find just the right one to use. I couldnt really make sure the Focus one would fit the way I wanted. I also wanted to get this off the list. So, I got some plastic cable channel, automotive trim paint and some clear double side tape. The piece will be cut slightly longer than the back dotted area. I am also going to peel the ****e double side tape and use the clear once the trim paint dries. Here are the supplies I am starting with.

Wes

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just ordered one from Amazon: CIPA 36100 Wedge Base Auto Dimming Rearview Mirror : Amazon.com : Automotive

I'm going to try and do the same sort of installation process for mine. I'll have to take pictures and show the results for mine as well.
Looking forward to seeing pics. Are you going to hook up the reverse lockout wire? If so, I would be interested in seeing where you tap it. Just keep in mind the pillar is a pain to get back together with the way the tabs are angled. Just takes a few tries.
Wes
 

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Ok, I did the install and here is the procedure I used for CIPA 36100 Wedge Base Auto Dimming Rearview Mirror : Amazon.com : Automotive

1) Remove the existing mirror. It didn't have a spring in it, just stick a flathead screw driver in there and wiggle the mirror side to side as you push up parallel to the windshield. After a lot of wiggling it eventually started sliding up and off.
Tool Impact driver Drill accessories Burin Handheld power drill
Auto part Automotive mirror Rear-view mirror Vehicle


2) Attach new mirror. This was ridiculously simple... Slide on from the top, tighten with T20 Torx bit.
Gun


3) Plug in the connector to the back of the mirror and then run up to the headliner.

4) Take the wires and just use a finger to push them back up under the headliner where it meets the windshield. It went in there pretty easily and stayed in place. Once over to the A pillar, I just pushed it under the lip and then ran the wires behind the rubber door seal rather than trying to screw with the plastic A pillar cover. This worked really well.

5) Remove the driver side triangular shaped panel. It took an almost scary amount of force to pry it off (crazy snap connectors). Start at the point that is out by the headlight switch and get your fingernails (hope you didn't trim them yesterday) up under the lip and pull. The whole thing rotates out toward the door. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Steering wheel Center console


6) Now this is where I might have screwed up. I always thought that red wires were switched ignition and yellow wires were always on. So I found a red wire going to the headlight control switch. I disconnected the switch which requires an awkward wrist position, but there is a spring clip on the far side that you pinch and remove. I also wiggled out the wiring clamp that holds it back a few inches to organize the wires to get enough slack to pull the connector out the side. Vehicle Car Automotive lighting Headlamp


7) Throw out the stupid knife edge clampy connector they give you. I tried getting it to make a reliable connection for about an hour before I gave up, stripped the wire, wrapped the power connector wire around the now bare red wire, and wire glued it all together. (wire glue is much more convenient than soldering).

8) Take the ground wire, and remove one of the 8mm bolts in that side panel, put the bolt through the hole on the ground, and tighten it back up.

9) This is where you can see that I may have screwed up. The green light on my mirror is on, and thus it is powered without the car being on. The instructions say it will drain the battery, but there is a power switch on the mirror, so I may just have to turn the mirror power on manually at night. Small sacrifice to be made. If someone else wants to try one of the other wires attaching to the OBD port, be my guest... I wasn't that brave. The headlight switch and the OBD were the only wires reasonably accessible back there. Auto part Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Car


10) Now that you've tested your connection, electrical tape up the tapped wire, making sure to reinforce the connection as well as you can and cover up anything exposed.

11) Plug the headlight switch back in ensuring that you don't bend your new connection too much. If you used solder, you are probably fine... If you used wire glue like me, make sure you wait for it to dry. If you used the included tap connector, you will repeatedly get it to work, only to have it lose contact once the connector snaps in to place. Trust me, don't use that POS.

12) Test out the headlight switch making sure everything still works.

13) Zip tie up the remaining slack (the zip ties are even included!)

14) Reattach the triangular panel. It helps if you pull some of the rubber door seal away and rotate it back toward the door and then turn it into place. Once you have the clips lined up, push it into the dashboard until it snaps back in.

15) Clean the windshield and the new mirror because you likely got fingerprints all over everything.

That's about it. Final results look good, the mirror works great. Only thing is having the turn the power on and off, but that is still less work than flipping the button to dim the mirror. And it's got a bright green LED on the mirror to remind you if you left it on. I also can't imagine it draws that much power so unless you leave your car sitting for a week, it probably won't drain your battery. But of course you have an emergency kit in the trunk with jumper cables right? ;) Rear-view mirror Automotive mirror Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle door
 

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brazwewn, my mirror only had two wires: power and ground. I have no idea where you'd connect the reverse lockout... I really wish I had a wiring diagram for everything in the car. It'd come in handy when I go to swap out the floor lights to blue LED strips to illuminate the foot wells.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
brazwewn, my mirror only had two wires: power and ground. I have no idea where you'd connect the reverse lockout... I really wish I had a wiring diagram for everything in the car. It'd come in handy when I go to swap out the floor lights to blue LED strips to illuminate the foot wells.
Most factory mirrors have at least three wires. The third turns off the dim feature when in reverse. It could be easily found if you started snooping around the shifter. There has to be a limit switch (I assume) that can be tapped into. My only problem is I don't know if it is power or ground. I assume ground, but wold need to look it up.

Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I did the install and here is the procedure I used for CIPA 36100 Wedge Base Auto Dimming Rearview Mirror : Amazon.com : Automotive

1) Remove the existing mirror. It didn't have a spring in it, just stick a flathead screw driver in there and wiggle the mirror side to side as you push up parallel to the windshield. After a lot of wiggling it eventually started sliding up and off.
View attachment 6062 View attachment 6063

2) Attach new mirror. This was ridiculously simple... Slide on from the top, tighten with T20 Torx bit.
View attachment 6064

3) Plug in the connector to the back of the mirror and then run up to the headliner.

4) Take the wires and just use a finger to push them back up under the headliner where it meets the windshield. It went in there pretty easily and stayed in place. Once over to the A pillar, I just pushed it under the lip and then ran the wires behind the rubber door seal rather than trying to screw with the plastic A pillar cover. This worked really well.

5) Remove the driver side triangular shaped panel. It took an almost scary amount of force to pry it off (crazy snap connectors). Start at the point that is out by the headlight switch and get your fingernails (hope you didn't trim them yesterday) up under the lip and pull. The whole thing rotates out toward the door. View attachment 6065

6) Now this is where I might have screwed up. I always thought that red wires were switched ignition and yellow wires were always on. So I found a red wire going to the headlight control switch. I disconnected the switch which requires an awkward wrist position, but there is a spring clip on the far side that you pinch and remove. I also wiggled out the wiring clamp that holds it back a few inches to organize the wires to get enough slack to pull the connector out the side. View attachment 6066

7) Throw out the stupid knife edge clampy connector they give you. I tried getting it to make a reliable connection for about an hour before I gave up, stripped the wire, wrapped the power connector wire around the now bare red wire, and wire glued it all together. (wire glue is much more convenient than soldering).

8) Take the ground wire, and remove one of the 8mm bolts in that side panel, put the bolt through the hole on the ground, and tighten it back up.

9) This is where you can see that I may have screwed up. The green light on my mirror is on, and thus it is powered without the car being on. The instructions say it will drain the battery, but there is a power switch on the mirror, so I may just have to turn the mirror power on manually at night. Small sacrifice to be made. If someone else wants to try one of the other wires attaching to the OBD port, be my guest... I wasn't that brave. The headlight switch and the OBD were the only wires reasonably accessible back there. View attachment 6067

10) Now that you've tested your connection, electrical tape up the tapped wire, making sure to reinforce the connection as well as you can and cover up anything exposed.

11) Plug the headlight switch back in ensuring that you don't bend your new connection too much. If you used solder, you are probably fine... If you used wire glue like me, make sure you wait for it to dry. If you used the included tap connector, you will repeatedly get it to work, only to have it lose contact once the connector snaps in to place. Trust me, don't use that POS.

12) Test out the headlight switch making sure everything still works.

13) Zip tie up the remaining slack (the zip ties are even included!)

14) Reattach the triangular panel. It helps if you pull some of the rubber door seal away and rotate it back toward the door and then turn it into place. Once you have the clips lined up, push it into the dashboard until it snaps back in.

15) Clean the windshield and the new mirror because you likely got fingerprints all over everything.

That's about it. Final results look good, the mirror works great. Only thing is having the turn the power on and off, but that is still less work than flipping the button to dim the mirror. And it's got a bright green LED on the mirror to remind you if you left it on. I also can't imagine it draws that much power so unless you leave your car sitting for a week, it probably won't drain your battery. But of course you have an emergency kit in the trunk with jumper cables right? ;) View attachment 6068
Very detailed write up. Taking the pillar cover off is not that bad, just a little scary. Kind of like you mentioned when you pulled off the triangle cover. The light blue/grey wire will give you ACC power.

Wes
 

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Thanks for all the information fellas!
I fully intend to do this mod early this summer. I was spoiled by my edge, and now I can't stand this standard mirror.
I'll also be adding the blend mount for my radar detector, and also hard wiring my radar detector into the system.
I'll make sure to take pictures when this mod goes in. It might be some time before I get the parts and the time to do all this.
My goal is get it all done before the end of April. I'm looking for warmer weather in particular.

~ 13

Also: Wes, I've been secretly stalking you all over this and fordstnation. So FYI you are secretly my friend ;)
I've loved all the mods you've done. I'm taking your ideas and molding them to fit my needs :)
Right now I'm trying to find resolution to the LED running lights >.<
 

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I did this in my 98 escort zx2, one of my most useful interior mods as well as illuminated window/lock controls. nice write up
 

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Old thread but I just bought an auto dimming mirror with home link direct from kia for 12 plus shipping, total was around 24 for a new mirror.
Will try to do this mod.
 
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