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16 ST, 93 oct, FRPP, RS ac K&N filter, Forge FMIC, Mountune Recirc, CNT cat, 3" pipe, Steeda RMM
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Greetings
sorry I am posting this questions, as I must not be searching the right topics. I have read 30-50 post, but I have not found a post quite like this issue, 2014 Fiesta ST overheated yesterday, it was a hot humid day in Texas, I just got an inspection. Drove it to get some gas on the way to give it a good cleaning. Filled up, and when I turned on the ignition it immediately when to high temp and lost all power. Drove it way from the gas pump looking for shade, max speed 7-8 mph. 24 hours later.. if you try and start it..it immediately displays high temp alarm and engine light. Oil looks good, no milky antifreeze, no water leaks, not smoking, engine will only idle, no acceleration, but does not sound like it is missing. I am fearing the worse any suggestions on where to start.
Did you figure out your issue with overheating? If not I'd start with the simple stuff like the coolant temp sensor.
 

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Did you figure out your issue with overheating? If not I'd start with the simple stuff like the coolant temp sensor.
No but I haven’t had time to look at it. It is throwing pcode alarm 1299- cylinder head protection sensor, My plan is to change that sensor followed by the thermostat, and then radiator flush. I think it will take me about 5-6 hours, to complete it. That does not help me understand why it got hot. If this works, I am still going to take it in. As I know some cars had an overheating issue
 

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Hey, I'm buying a 2016 st-3 eco boost, but its on a 65 plate...is there any differences between the cars between plates?

Sorry if this is a moronic question but I'm not a car person at all.
 

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Hey, I'm buying a 2016 st-3 eco boost, but its on a 65 plate...is there any differences between the cars between plates?

Sorry if this is a moronic question but I'm not a car person at all.
Might want to ask here:

This is mostly a North American website; I have no idea what a "65" plate is.
 

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Might want to ask here:

This is mostly a North American website; I have no idea what a "65" plate is.
Aw ok, thank you.

See I can't even join the right forun haha.
 

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Hey guys, have a 2007 xr5 turbo here in aus (st225 i believe to most of you) however it has a motor from a 2009, which i believe is facelift? Anyways, its stage 3 bluefin tuned and the clutch has started to slip (car has 250,000 klms, 200,000 on the motor) was just wondering what the torque rating of the stock clutch is and if i need to go heavy duty? im thinking i will get a single mass conversion done as it ends up being a lot cheaper, and also gives me the option to machine the flywheel if there are any further issues. Am i correct in assuming the single mass is also capable of holding more torque than a DMF? I believe the stage 3 bluefin puts out 227kw (305hp) and 452 nm. Not sure how close i would be to that power level, but would like to know what clutch i will need.
 

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Any hid kits for an ST1 that won't cause a bulb fault? Or a similar (6000k) Led bulb?
You're gonna want to grab a set of projector lenses that can actually handle HIDs to avoid excessive glare.
I'm not sure on the kits but im pretty sure diode dynamics sells them.
 

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So, if I changed out the entire housing for a projector like the spyder projector housing for example, I'd be good with no bulb fault?
Yup. As long as they're plug and play.
My buddy has an ST1 with the vland headlights that are HID and he has had no bulb faults. Just a plug it in and go
 

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No, unless you're getting a full kit that changes out the reflector for a projector or LED compatible reflector. Can't just swap bulbs like that.
Yes and no...projectors designed for a halogen bulb are still not perfect for an hid bulb. The bulbs don't always put the light in the same place and can still cause glare or less than ideal throw/pattern. It's still way better than doing it in a reflector housing though. If chasing the best output, a retrofit with clear lens in a known projector will be the ticket (but most amount of effort!)
 

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Are sure you sure you would even get a fault. When I switchef my halogens on my ST1 over to LEDs I found that one of my bulbs was out and I never had a fault on the dash.
I put in a set of hids yesterday. Got a fault and the green indicator went away on the dash for when the headlights are on. I took them out and will not be putting them back in.
 

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2014 Focus ST2
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I put in a set of hids yesterday. Got a fault and the green indicator went away on the dash for when the headlights are on. I took them out and will not be putting them back in.
You missed a step. You must go into FoCCCus or Forscan and tell the car that you are using an HID bulb. I prefer FoCCCus but they both do the job. Just this weekend I installed a set of Morimoto XB bulbs which came in a kit from the retrofit source. They fit perfectly, no check engine lights or faults, and work amazing. Unless you installed something wrong or one of the electronics came faulty, it should work fine. I’ve heard plenty of people use the method that I used. You can PM me if you’d like. Again this worked for me, but it might be different if you use a different kit.
 

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Accident Post**
 

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It's 499. Which isn't bad. The "beast" from depo is 439. Would you go with the cvf over the beast for stock turbo (maybe upgrade in the future) any downside to running such a large intercooler so soon?
 
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