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...Also coolant change: Going to do drain and refill (no flush), will that leave some old OEM coolant in the system, because I am going to use dexcool AF888, 2 diff coolant will get mixed in is that not ok or OEM coolant only got very little left and no need to worry.
Yes, older coolant will be left in the engine block if all you do is drain the coolant via the petcock. Unless you’re in a “stranded on the side of the road” situation, there’s virtually no upside to mixing coolant brands/types.

If I were only doing a drain & fill, I’d refill with only the exact type of coolant I drained.

However, if you’re going to do a full on flush using distilled water then it’s OK to change brands.

Be sure you use the correct OAT/HOAT type that’s appropriate for your vehicle. Also don’t forget to refill with a 50/50 mixture rather than undiluted coolant.

This is a good coolant resource chart for Ford vehicles.
 

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Ok I am wondering if this is safe since I am new at DIY. So Jacking up the car about 6 inches to 9 inches away from the right front of the pinch-weld "arrow" jacking point. Then put a jack stand at the arrow point. Repeat the same at the right rear and put another jack stand there. (Actually how far away from the pinch-weld "arrow" can I use floor jack without hurting the car? Also I understand there are other jacking points and methods to do this, I welcome other methods but also please tell me if this is ok to do)

The car have been sitting there for awhile and I want to rotate the tires front to back, last set of tires I also rarely drive the car and front tires were wobbling pretty badly at the alignment shop, and they couldn't do an alignment when they put the tires on the balancer.
 

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@FocusST101 I used the pinch welds in that area quite a bit.. The pinch welds are all part of the frame components you should be able to use the whole length of them, just a warning though. They will bend and if you use them enough they'll end up looking like bacon.
I'd suggest some jacking rails. I have the STEEDA rails and they're probably the best money I've ever spent on the car besides fuel. Lol
 

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Ok I am wondering if this is safe since I am new at DIY. So Jacking up the car about 6 inches to 9 inches away from the right front of the pinch-weld "arrow" jacking point. Then put a jack stand at the arrow point. Repeat the same at the right rear and put another jack stand there. (Actually how far away from the pinch-weld "arrow" can I use floor jack without hurting the car? Also I understand there are other jacking points and methods to do this, I welcome other methods but also please tell me if this is ok to do)

The car have been sitting there for awhile and I want to rotate the tires front to back, last set of tires I also rarely drive the car and front tires were wobbling pretty badly at the alignment shop, and they couldn't do an alignment when they put the tires on the balancer.
I put the jackstand on the lower control arm bushings. Which fits right into the rounded section of my jackstands. I also use a Zl1 addons Mag pad to protect the pinch weld. For the rears, I jack up from the center of the rear crossmember, and place jackstands on either side of it before the trailing arms pivots.
 

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Whats a great mod for under $100 or so? Want to do someting on the cheap and have a coupon on ebay. Was thinking of getting the resonator deleted. Is this something worth doing?
 

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Whats a great mod for under $100 or so? Want to do someting on the cheap and have a coupon on ebay. Was thinking of getting the resonator deleted. Is this something worth doing?
My resonator delete was 40$ worth it IMO if you're on a budget like me. Car sounds like it should've from the factory.
 

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For everyday drivability, I'd do a short shift bracket or a an accelerator pedal spacer (really helps with heel toe).
 
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