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Is there a way to distinguish false knocks from real knocks?
I'm sometimes pulling -2.xx to -3.xx ish negs for no apparent reason. Cylinders vary. You really can't say it's a specific one. Sometimes it's #1 who has the highest neg, next time it's #3, then #2. You get the idea.
Usually I'm running a clean +4 on all four and then after a short pull it's sort of -1,53 / -0,67 / -3,17 / -1,10... This kinda freaks me out.
 

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Is there a way to distinguish false knocks from real knocks?
I'm sometimes pulling -2.xx to -3.xx ish negs for no apparent reason. Cylinders vary. You really can't say it's a specific one. Sometimes it's #1 who has the highest neg, next time it's #3, then #2. You get the idea.
Usually I'm running a clean +4 on all four and then after a short pull it's sort of -1,53 / -0,67 / -3,17 / -1,10... This kinda freaks me out.
Is it hitting the negatives while you are doing the pull (aka at wot and high rpm) and then you see the negatives when you let off the throttle?
 

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Is it hitting the negatives while you are doing the pull (aka at wot and high rpm) and then you see the negatives when you let off the throttle?
Good question - I think I have to take a log to see when they exactly appear. But during the pull usually all I see is +4.00 and when I shift up or get off the throttle bam - negs. I can't concentrate on the AP for the full pull of course. That would be a bit dangerous to take your eyes of the road that long.
 

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Pretty much, maybe you could monitor corrections if you like.
 

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Stage 1
 

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I've had my '14 ST2 for a couple years now. I got a Cobb stage 1 package with the air filter RMM and AP. I also installed a Borla catback. I installed the stage 1 OTS map from the AP and haven't really utilized it until just now. I finally did my first launch today (it was fun :cool:). I have a few questions.

First question, kinda standard I'm sure: what should I prioritize purchasing? I should mention that I'm not really looking to race. Maybe a few times just for fun. I drive it as my daily driver, so I guess I really just want the car to look/sound cool. I'm also not looking to make it sound overly obnoxious. I am planning on installing the RMM soon and maybe getting a symposer delete. The other few things I was looking into getting next are a new intercooler, cold air intake and maybe downpipe. I haven't looked into suspension upgrades yet but I would like to as well. And then wheel/brake upgrades of course.

Second question: when/how should I tune the car? As I mentioned, I have the Cobb stage 1 package and an aftermarket catback. I'm sure I could get a custom tune that would improve performance but I'm not sure where to go. I don't know if I wanna go for a pro tune because I'm in the military and I'm moving within the next 6 months. I was looking into finding an vendor where I can get unlimited e-tunes.

Loaded post, thanks for the help.
 

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intercooler should be next upgrade, the stock one is a POS
 

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Took my car in to have the fuel tank deformation and door latch recall taken care of. They called and said if I had an aftermarket tune on the car they couldn't do the recalls because it would erase my tune. I go out there and unmarry the Cobb from the car. I get the car back and when I tried to reinstall the tune I get the two following error messages. I assume they and update on the car and I now need to update the Cobb? Anyone got any ideas?


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Yep, update the AP and it will load no problem. Same thing happened to me when I had it in for the purge recall.

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Sure, why not?
But tbh, If I was you, I'd wait until I had the FMIC and then get a "proper" map. I've never driven the Cobb OTS stage 2 or 3 maps, but I've heard they're pretty harsh and don't drive nicely.
Even a OTS map from any reputable tuner should be more refined and better suited than the Cobb OTS maps.
 
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