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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been trying to pin down a small exhaust leak for quite some time now since I put the ATP GTX2867 on. I'm almost certain it's the vband connection between the 90* exhaust elbow and the exhaust housing of the turbo. Some black sooty stuff on the back side of the engine, top side of wastegate arm, etc.. it's the most logical location. I have already removed the elbow once and resinstalled it. The clamp looked to be in fine condition. But inner lip of the vband on the manifold side was broken off a little, but that should only be there to help align the pieces and shouldn't affecting sealing, I wouldn't think.

Still leaking in the same location from what I can tell. Most noticeable on a cold start. I think as it heats up, it seals up a little better, but you can still hear it.

Anyone else run into this and have ideas/solutions? I'm kinda stumped on this one! It's possible the two surfaces are not perfectly flat, but pulling the turbo is not something I want to do at this point. I was thinking about spraying some of that high temp copper gasket maker stuff on to help seal up any small imperfections, or maybe cutting out a small gasket to fit.

To be clear this is the connection point I'm talking about:

 

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I've seen two leak from there. In both case the owners took it off or loosened it to clock the turbo. ATP recommends you not take it off or loosen because if not seated properly it will leak. It's also hard to get it lined up with the turbo in the car
 

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In both cases I had to mark it for clocking with it on, pull the turbo and assemble it on the bench. Both stopped leaking after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In both cases I had to mark it for clocking with it on, pull the turbo and assemble it on the bench. Both stopped leaking after that.
Thanks for the info! I followed the Edge 'how to' on here where they recommended keeping it loose while doing the install, so that might explain it.

I did confirm with ATP that the inlet ID is ~2.25". At this point I might as well give a thin v-band style gasket a shot (like the stock downpipe connection uses) before pulling the whole damn turbo (which my motivation level for doing is around 0 right now lol).
 

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Thanks for the info! I followed the Edge 'how to' on here where they recommended keeping it loose while doing the install, so that might explain it.

I did confirm with ATP that the inlet ID is ~2.25". At this point I might as well give a thin v-band style gasket a shot (like the stock downpipe connection uses) before pulling the whole damn turbo (which my motivation level for doing is around 0 right now lol).
See what it does it cant hurt anything. You should also be able to see the leak in logs. Because it pre O2 sensor the AFR should be all over the place. It wont hurt anything it will just look weird on logs
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
See what it does it cant hurt anything. You should also be able to see the leak in logs. Because it pre O2 sensor the AFR should be all over the place. It wont hurt anything it will just look weird on logs
I've been running it as is now for a few months, been tuned and everything. Nothing really abnormal in the logs. I feel like turbo spool is a little slower than it should be, but there may be other factors, like still running the stock catback, etc. It's not a big leak...just a lingering issue I would love to finally square away.

I will report back with what I figure out. I'll do the work this weekend, assuming I can find a usable gasket locally.
 

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I've been running it as is now for a few months, been tuned and everything. Nothing really abnormal in the logs. I feel like turbo spool is a little slower than it should be, but there may be other factors, like still running the stock catback, etc. It's not a big leak...just a lingering issue I would love to finally square away.

I will report back with what I figure out. I'll do the work this weekend, assuming I can find a usable gasket locally.
so not sure if you had success but after chasing down a cold start growl for months i blew my motor and ended up having to pull the turbo before bringing the engine to speed performance. My motor too had black soot all over it and the underside of the exhaust side too. I just sent pictures to atp and they are going to get back to me for a fix...did you find any resolution? anything help to seal this up? I could smell exhaust every time i stopped. not cool atp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I bought some copper gasket and trimmed it down it down to fit. Didnt come out super clean looking, but it definitely helped. Did not solve it 100 percent I don't think. If you look at the vband connection, I think it's the turbo exhaust housing side is not completely round "the sides are cut out". I have no idea why they would do this and I think it adds to the leaks/makes the connection less secure.

I never did pull it off and install it on a bench or even take it to a machine shop to get the surfaces refinished. That may have worked, but I think a simple gasket in there would probably solve a lot of issues if it was designed that like-- like the downpipe connection.

Since your **** is apart now, if ATP doesn't help you out, I would just have a machine shop flatten out both surfaces, install it on a bench/do the final snug on a bench and I bet you'll be OK. A super thin layer of copper RTV gasket maker on the mating surface is also a good idea IMO if you can't get a metal gasket sorted out.
 

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I bought some copper gasket and trimmed it down it down to fit. Didnt come out super clean looking, but it definitely helped. Did not solve it 100 percent I don't think. If you look at the vband connection, I think it's the turbo exhaust housing side is not completely round "the sides are cut out". I have no idea why they would do this and I think it adds to the leaks/makes the connection less secure.

I never did pull it off and install it on a bench or even take it to a machine shop to get the surfaces refinished. That may have worked, but I think a simple gasket in there would probably solve a lot of issues if it was designed that like-- like the downpipe connection.

Since your **** is apart now, if ATP doesn't help you out, I would just have a machine shop flatten out both surfaces, install it on a bench/do the final snug on a bench and I bet you'll be OK. A super thin layer of copper RTV gasket maker on the mating surface is also a good idea IMO if you can't get a metal gasket sorted out.
. thanks for the reply. apparently it’s a t28 that’s machines to fit a vband. not sure why they would cut it to fit. i wondered if the coppergasket maker would work. i’ll have to look at the temp range on the tube i have. i too noticed pretty slow spool. the 2.3 i’m having built should also help that!
 
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