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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was looking for some information on the two radiators that seem to be available for the Focus ST, Mishimotor or Mountune ???? I can't find a single positive thing even with a stock ST? I looked on the Mishimoto vender site and it's a ghost town? I have been wanting to upgrade mine as I have a big turbo and it overheats on the track with anything over 80osa, it has a oil cooler and a hudge inner cooler which seen not to help that much ? Does anyone have any real time data on either one of those radiators ? Number 1 they seem a bit on the high side for just a two row radiator compaired with others but I really need to lower my temps, I know others that have ran on the track even stock overheat by the 5th or 6th lap , any information would be greatly appreciated ....:crying:
 

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Radiator Grille Automotive exterior Bumper Technology . I just built this and will be tracking the car tomorrow at palmer. I'll let you know if the radiator shrouds help. I can tell you that it certainly recovers more quickly once you direct air through the radiator. I too am big turbo, but only 3.5 intercooler.
 

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I'm running the Mishimoto. The radiator cools things off better than an oil cooler put its on one piece that's needed. Tubular crash bar that allows more air to get to the radiator. Guides the force air to and through the radiator. Hood vents to reduce pressure behind the radiator increasing efficiency and letting that hot air escape..
 

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View attachment 260793 . I just built this and will be tracking the car tomorrow at palmer. I'll let you know if the radiator shrouds help. I can tell you that it certainly recovers more quickly once you direct air through the radiator. I too am big turbo, but only 3.5 intercooler.
Love this! I am working on something long this line, I wasn't going this crazy but maybe now I will. I picked up a sheet of alum yesterday and started making templates
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
View attachment 260793 . I just built this and will be tracking the car tomorrow at palmer. I'll let you know if the radiator shrouds help. I can tell you that it certainly recovers more quickly once you direct air through the radiator. I too am big turbo, but only 3.5 intercooler.

thanks for posting, I am curious, are you running a different radiator Miso or Mount? would be great to hear how it did on the track after you have done those mods? please let me know?

Thanks, again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm running the Mishimoto. The radiator cools things off better than an oil cooler put its on one piece that's needed. Tubular crash bar that allows more air to get to the radiator. Guides the force air to and through the radiator. Hood vents to reduce pressure behind the radiator increasing efficiency and letting that hot air escape..
Did you do any other mods besides the radiator? and from what I have read on your post the Mishimoto does a better job of cooling but it still gets hot on long pulls and track days? is that correct
 

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One reason the Mountune FMIC is of Tube& fin design is to allow better airflow to the radiator.. I know you all somehow (meaning US marked) is all about Bar&fin FMIC`s, but when track is involved cooling is everything.

Tube&fin have less pressure loss but charge air is not cooled as efficient during a single run, hence you all go for the FMIC that is proven the most efficient over a single pull. Completely different from track conditions. Also, blocking half the upper rad with a oil cooler does not help.
 

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What coolant temps are you folks seeing at the track?

If your regularly road racing the car then at that point you need to decide how much of a dd is it really gonna be? Before you upgrade the radiator focus on getting the maximum out of it. Consider removing the a/c condensor, this will reduce weight and also allow the radiator to work more efficiently. Second, maybe consider bypassing the coolant lines going to the oem oil cooler setup this way you dont have the engine oil temps introducing more heat to the coolant. When your going to the track flush and run pure water with a small amount of water wetter. all these said and done are a fairly cheap mod to perform and might net better results than a fancy aftermarket radiator.
 

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What coolant temps are you folks seeing at the track?

If your regularly road racing the car then at that point you need to decide how much of a dd is it really gonna be? Before you upgrade the radiator focus on getting the maximum out of it. Consider removing the a/c condensor, this will reduce weight and also allow the radiator to work more efficiently. Second, maybe consider bypassing the coolant lines going to the oem oil cooler setup this way you dont have the engine oil temps introducing more heat to the coolant. When your going to the track flush and run pure water with a small amount of water wetter. all these said and done are a fairly cheap mod to perform and might net better results than a fancy aftermarket radiator.
Exactly. All this building shrouds and adding weight to the car does minimal. I mentioned it when we built the first 2.3 and did a ac delete. The condenser covers the whole radiator. Car never got above 190 with it removed.

Radiator Auto part
Radiator Auto part Grass Automotive radiator part Automotive exterior
Radiator Automotive radiator part Auto part Grille
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think the answer on the overheating and not just track cars in this case, or on the track, but the ST overheats on going up the mountains in 90 deg day with the AC on, not even pushing the car that hard, I think after two years of these radiators if that was the fix then it would be all over the forum? which it is not, I really think it's a air flow issue with the lack of air flow, I am going to do some mods to the open up the front of the ST and see if that fixes the problem ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Exactly. All this building shrouds and adding weight to the car does minimal. I mentioned it when we built the first 2.3 and did a ac delete. The condenser covers the whole radiator. Car never got above 190 with it removed.

View attachment 261081
View attachment 261089
View attachment 261097
I agree, the condensor is a gaint heater in front of the radiator, but in 90+ weather and not a 100% track car, it would suck not to have AC , so the problem needs to be fixed, they should design these tubo cars with V cooling , compond cooling does not work , I am seeing more and more of this problem arise in the UTV field with turbos and in the automotive field with turbos , these new engineers need to do there homework , they fixed this issue in aircraft years ago.
 
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I agree, the condensor is a gaint heater in front of the radiator, but in 90+ weather and not a 100% track car, it would suck not to have AC , so the problem needs to be fixed, they should design these tubo cars with V cooling , compond cooling does not work , I am seeing more and more of this problem arise in the UTV field with turbos and in the automotive field with turbos , these new engineers need to do there homework , they fixed this issue in aircraft years ago.
Agree, maybe we can get Mishimoto to design a smaller condenser to go along with the radiator.
 

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I think the answer on the overheating and not just track cars in this case, or on the track, but the ST overheats on going up the mountains in 90 deg day with the AC on, not even pushing the car that hard, I think after two years of these radiators if that was the fix then it would be all over the forum? which it is not, I really think it's a air flow issue with the lack of air flow, I am going to do some mods to the open up the front of the ST and see if that fixes the problem ?
I drive up mountain roads quite a bit, and its been pretty warm lately. 97 deg weather. My AP will typically show coolant temps in the 190s. If you are over heating just in spirited drives then maybe you need to check out your coolant system for possible issues.
 

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Agree, maybe we can get Mishimoto to design a smaller condenser to go along with the radiator.
AC delete write up/how to? I never use the AC..unless wife is in the car (which never happens bc she doesn't like it)


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AC delete write up/how to? I never use the AC..unless wife is in the car (which never happens bc she doesn't like it)


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No sorry man but here are some pics on the stuff to remove. It's not hard to do and the stuff weighs about 40 lbs. The car will also not throw codes and it is reversible.

Remove the bumper, headlights and this brace to access the top of the radiator.

Vehicle Engine Car Auto part Hood

remove the 2 nuts on the condenser and remove the 2 rubber lines from the compressor.

Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Automotive exterior
Engine Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part Car

Remove the condenser and the compressor. There is one electrical connector on the compressor.

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Carburetor Vehicle

Then remove these 2 lines and tape up the holes in the fire wall.

Vehicle Engine Auto part Car Automotive exterior

Its all pretty easy to get to. Bag all the parts so you can to reinstall later
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No sorry man but here are some pics on the stuff to remove. It's not hard to do and the stuff weighs about 40 lbs. The car will also not throw codes and it is reversible.

Remove the bumper, headlights and this brace to access the top of the radiator.

View attachment 261258

remove the 2 nuts on the condenser and remove the 2 rubber lines from the compressor.

View attachment 261266
View attachment 261274

Remove the condenser and the compressor. There is one electrical connector on the compressor.

View attachment 261282

Then remove these 2 lines and tape up the holes in the fire wall.

View attachment 261290

Its all pretty easy to get to. Bag all the parts so you can to reinstall later
You guys really amaze me! So this is an intelligent answer to overheating? I am just curious? What does this have to do with installing a Mishimoto or Mountune radiator? How does removing the AC out of a 30K car fix it? If you want to talk about building a track car, put it in the Track section! Not my post where the question was? If "anybody" has used those two radiators and tested them on the track? And did it perform well. And by looking at the pictures with the engine removed, you probably don’t have a cooling problem?
 

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You guys really amaze me! So this is an intelligent answer to overheating? I am just curious? What does this have to do with installing a Mishimoto or Mountune radiator? How does removing the AC out of a 30K car fix it? If you want to talk about building a track car, put it in the Track section! Not my post where the question was? If "anybody" has used those two radiators and tested them on the track? And did it perform well. And by looking at the pictures with the engine removed, you probably don’t have a cooling problem?
Sue me for asking a question about an interesting topic in your post. Since you wanna be a **** about it, try searching for for moutune or Mish radiator reviews. I'll do ya a solid..here ya go "Mishimoto radiator track review"-

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-...moto-radiator-track-review.html#/topics/50068

Oh and while removing the AC on a 30k car may not be conventional, it does help keep the radiator high temps at bay. And it's cheaper than buying a radiator.


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...these new engineers need to do there homework...
They have, on a stock car in desert 110°F - 120°F ambients my stock car has no issue keeping cool even when I play.

As others have pointed out you should really consider a shaved grill, and ducting. Perhaps even a vented hood so the air pressure has some where to escape, to help further alleviate temps. Perhaps, if you can tolerate it, consider running the heater on the track.

Lastly, a higher pressure expansion tank cap and the switch to 5w40, or 5w50 will give you a little extra headroom on the track. Everything added up may get you to where you need to be. But I do not think it is fair to complain about cooling when you have deviated far from stock.

Jumping on some one who is offering solutions (Via removed condenser) is only going to get you fewer responses in the future.
 
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