[Fordnut 87]

Hey guys im new here been trying for days to get the wiring diagram for the back of my head unit to not much success
Car is focus lz st 2017
Specifically what im actually looking for is atleast a diagram or even photos of the wiring harness that runs the speakers, sub and amp any help would be appreciated

 

[jasonwilliams10]

All the signals are digital from the head unit to the Amp that has a processor for everything. You can get the connections at the Amp itself for the speakers. There is not an Amp turn on lead if that is what you're looking for.

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[Fordnut 87]

See i was thinking 1 or 2 of those empty spaces would be for the remote wire and signal and was hoping to use the correct ones to power my aftermarket amp

 

[jasonwilliams10]

Best thing I have found is to get a line level converter with a turn on lead built in. Hooks to a +12v and ground and turns the Amp on when it detects signal. They're not too expensive, about $25 from Crutchfield.com. Scosche LOC90 Speaker to RCA Line Output Converter 2-channel speaker-to-RCA line output converter with remote level control at Crutchfield. All you have to is run the power wire to the rear since the rca and turn on will be back there. The best place to go through the firewall is a grommet behind the glove compartment.

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[Fordnut 87]

Thank you for the help

 

[jasonwilliams10]

Thank you for the help

Np. I will get on my pc here in a min, I think I have the wire colors for the Amp outputs saved.

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[jasonwilliams10]

Here are the colors, location, and resistance from my 2017 ST3 with the Sony system.
(5) 1" tweeters 4 ohm, each door and dash
(2) 2 ohm 6.5" front doors
(2) 4 ohm 6.5" rear doors
Rear sub 8" DVC 2ohm voice coils
Dash Speaker + Green, - Grey/Yellow
LF Woofer + White, - White/Brown
LF Tweeter + Violet/Orange, - Yellow/Orange
RF Woofer + White/Violet, - White/Orange
RF Tweeter + Green/Orange, - Grey/Orange
LR + White/Green, - Brown/Yellow
RR + Brown/White, - Brwn/Blue
Sub 1 + Violet, - Yellow
Sub 2 + Green/Violet, - Grey

 

[Fordnut 87]

It looks look a different wiring loom as it dosnt match the colours i have
But if they have wired the speakers in the some way as my non sub model then theoretically i just have to find the right pins on the unit and use those
From what im guessing though the sony amp is also a line converter
Which would mean i need a lc2i aswell to do the conversation

 

[jasonwilliams10]

You shouldn't need a lc2i unless you just want one for the extra capabilities. The converter I posted earlier will work and do the same thing as far as converting from speaker level to RCA.

 

[Fordnut 87]

Ok thank you jason you have been a big help

 

[jasonwilliams10]

Ok thank you jason you have been a big help

Np. Let me know if I can do anything else to help.

 

[StanE]

@Fordnut 87: Does your car have the Sony system or not?

 

[Fordnut 87]

No it doesn't

 

[StanE]

No it doesn't

OK - then the wiring out of the head unit (ACM) is easy - I’ll post a diagram later. But you can buy an interface kit that will allow you to “back wire” up your speakers with an industry standard 9-conductor cable. The head unit does have a remote turn on, but it only outputs 6v instead of the usual 12v.
assuming you are putting aftermarket amps/dsps etc in the back under the hatch, the best place to tap your remote turn on for those is the hatch courtesy light.
Also you can program the ACM via Forscan to output a perfect flat line level signal on all 4 channels for feeding your aftermarket equipment

 

[StanE]

@Fordnut 87 - here is the speaker wiring out of the ACM - the colors should be the same - I don't think they changed over the years.

 

[StanE]

@Fordnut 87 .....and here is the connector view, showing what wire is where. Even if the wire colors changed, the positions in the connector should not have.

 

[StanE]

@Fordnut 87 - FWIW, the remote turn on ("enable") is on pin 18 of the other ACM connector - see atached.......but as mentioned it is of little use, as it only puts out about 6Volts, which is generally not enough to reliably trigger aftermarket audio equipment.
After a bit of research and experimentation, I found that a good place to tap a 12V remote turn-on signal is from the hatch courtesy light - one of the two wires going to the light has 12V at all times when the car is on and also maintains 12V for about a half hour after the car is turned off. This is controlled by a timer in the BCM (the actual light is turned on by grounding the other wire).

 

[H0LYSACRILEGE]

OK - then the wiring out of the head unit (ACM) is easy - I’ll post a diagram later. But you can buy an interface kit that will allow you to “back wire” up your speakers with an industry standard 9-conductor cable. The head unit does have a remote turn on, but it only outputs 6v instead of the usual 12v.
assuming you are putting aftermarket amps/dsps etc in the back under the hatch, the best place to tap your remote turn on for those is the hatch courtesy light.
Also you can program the ACM via Forscan to output a perfect flat line level signal on all 4 channels for feeding your aftermarket equipment

I have been looking for that interface kit for about a week now. The only harness I can find is this, which seems a little overkill when all that needs to be tee-ed into is the 8 speakers wires. (at least for me). Also that "kit" is for a Sony equipped sound system. are the plugs the same between st1 and st2/3? I know the pinout is different, but you can always remove pins from the st2/3 harness if its the same plug.

Edit: after even more looking that kit is for connecting the sony amp to an aftermarket amp. so tldr wont work.

 

[StanE]

The iDatalink dFO2 should do the job.

 

[jasonwilliams10]

@Fordnut 87 - FWIW, the remote turn on ("enable") is on pin 18 of the other ACM connector - see atached.......but as mentioned it is of little use, as it only puts out about 6Volts, which is generally not enough to reliably trigger aftermarket audio equipment.
After a bit of research and experimentation, I found that a good place to tap a 12V remote turn-on signal is from the hatch courtesy light - one of the two wires going to the light has 12V at all times when the car is on and also maintains 12V for about a half hour after the car is turned off. This is controlled by a timer in the BCM (the actual light is turned on by grounding the other wire).

That is the one thing that drives me crazy about my car. Anytime I open a door, the [email protected]#$ amps turn on lol. I did car audio/video/security for about 10 years, but that was back in the late 90's - 00, and everything has changed since then.