Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Changed my spark plugs today, took it for a test ride for like 15-20 minutes. Then went out and did some pulls, mid way through I started spuddering and into like limp mode I went. Almost no throttle response, so cleared codes check a bunch of wires. Everything seems to be fine, even changed tunes. What I have noticed which is weird when I turn the car off and back on initially until I fully get off the gas pedal, the cars throttle response is fine. This gives the code P2122 and P2127. Tomorrow I will be pulling the spark plugs and double checking them again. Just wanted to see if anyone else knew about this issue at all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
I would check all your coil plugs make they are all seated and locked tight. Secondly this is a low voltage to TPS sensor code or sensing low voltage, I'd unplug the throttle plugs completely and reseat them and make sure they are in and locked completely. It almost sounds like when you were doing plugs you pumped something that moved a connection, or you just have a really coincidental timing of your throttle body or TPS going bad. Also check down near your gas pedal for any plugs or sensors, that can be unplugged and reseated tightly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would check all your coil plugs make they are all seated and locked tight. Secondly this is a low voltage to TPS sensor code or sensing low voltage, I'd unplug the throttle plugs completely and reseat them and make sure they are in and locked completely. It almost sounds like when you were doing plugs you pumped something that moved a connection, or you just have a really coincidental timing of your throttle body or TPS going bad. Also check down near your gas pedal for any plugs or sensors, that can be unplugged and reseated tightly.
I did all of this, pulled my spark plugs and double checked the gap. I found where I blocked off for the original BOV location was missing the block off. So i put a new one on and it still did the same thing. Different codes mostly this time, P008A, P0452, P06A6,P2122.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Update: Unmarried accessport to see if stock tune had any issues. Same occurance. Looked at my battery terminals and one has a ton of corrosion along the pole and where the ground is. I will be cleaning this up tomorrow to try to see if this is helping cause the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Wait your block off plate fell off? That's wierd make sure you use a dab of loctite. And were u able to do a compression test when u had the plugs out? Also those codes like that sound like that could be a voltage problem depending on how bad the corrosion really is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Yea the majority of those codes are low voltage, so what I'd do is pull the positive and negative cable off, clean them off really well, trace some your grounds make sure they are all kosher, let the cables sit off the battery for 15 mins or so just for ****s n gigs then hook back up check it for codes if they are there check back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Caleb ST1

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yea the majority of those codes are low voltage, so what I'd do is pull the positive and negative cable off, clean them off really well, trace some your grounds make sure they are all kosher, let the cables sit off the battery for 15 mins or so just for ****s n gigs then hook back up check it for codes if they are there check back.
Not the block off plate, where the stock vacuum source for the bov is. I found two bundles of wires burnt/melted that plug into one of the fuel lines behind the engine. Getting it towed and repaired Friday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I had something very similar happen when I got on it a while back...turned out to be that the charge pipe popped off of my FMIC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Not the block off plate, where the stock vacuum source for the bov is. I found two bundles of wires burnt/melted that plug into one of the fuel lines behind the engine. Getting it towed and repaired Friday.
Wow where were these wires behind the engine? I'm curious. Interested in how you have wires somewhere that arent shielded, wondering if we all have wires that could be melted?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Wow where were these wires behind the engine? I'm curious. Interested in how you have wires somewhere that arent shielded, wondering if we all have wires that could be melted?
If you follow your coil pack plugs back behind the engine you will see it leads to a fuel line plug, as well as it splits somewhere next to the turbo coolant feed line. These two are burnt and melted, I will get some pictures to show exactly where for you guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I had something very similar happen when I got on it a while back...turned out to be that the charge pipe popped off of my FMIC.
I appreciate it, I know its not this one since I pop my chargepipe off a lot lol. This has a different feel like the accelerator is almost unplugged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Well that sounds like you may have found the issue, if those wires are related to ignition or fuel either of those could be causing a shorting or arcing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well that sounds like you may have found the issue, if those wires are related to ignition or fuel either of those could be causing a shorting or arcing.
It keeps raining and I cant get the pictures lol. Yeah it is definately shorting, two wires melting and they are contacting each other. When it gets into the shop I will take pictures of the location of the wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Update: Rewired the area and fixed them at the shop with a friend. We noticed my downpipe slowly was working itself off and the exhaust fumes were heating the wires. I now have a ton of misfires in cylinder 3, pulled the BRAND NEW plug from it ceramic was shatterd. Got it replaced and will be pulling the rest tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Update: JK pulled the other 3 hairline cracks in all the ceramic. Took them got them replaced and put them in. 5-6 misfires on start up, but after it idled a little bit they stopped. Test driving it tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Update: Stuttering is gone and car has 0 codes. Appears the car is completely fixed. Thank you @GotAFoSTnSpeed6 for suggestions etc. I really appreciate it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: G heinrich

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
It sounds like someone wrenched the ****E out of those plugs when they put them in. Cause I only ever cracked a plug ceramic 1 time and that was in a car where that cylinder had gotten extremely hot and kinda baked the ceramic making it soft and brittle. Well hopefully you got all that out without losing any into the combustion chamber. And if your only getting a few misfires like that, that's not bad at all. Really anything that's not setting off your CEL is ok, now before I did my valves my misfires on cold start would get up to a 100 to 200 but after that would only pick up 1 or 2 during a 3 hour drive which as a DI engine your going to have misfires, especially in these cars the pistons werent designed the best. They redesigned the piston bowls for the pistons they made in the RS. Now after doing my valves they are down to 10 to 20 misfires when its below 50 degrees outside, but once its warm they all but stop maybe 1 here 1 there. Again if they arent ever setting your cel off its prolly not a huge deal. Especially if you monitor your compression and you know you change your plugs then your ok. I'd recommend doing valves every 30 to 40k depending on how bad your ignition corrections and misfires get, that's how I knew mine were ready, cause afterwards they have all but disappeared.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Oratic

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
It sounds like someone wrenched the ****E out of those plugs when they put them in. Cause I only ever cracked a plug ceramic 1 time and that was in a car where that cylinder had gotten extremely hot and kinda baked the ceramic making it soft and brittle. Well hopefully you got all that out without losing any into the combustion chamber. And if your only getting a few misfires like that, that's not bad at all. Really anything that's not setting off your CEL is ok, now before I did my valves my misfires on cold start would get up to a 100 to 200 but after that would only pick up 1 or 2 during a 3 hour drive which as a DI engine your going to have misfires, especially in these cars the pistons werent designed the best. They redesigned the piston bowls for the pistons they made in the RS. Now after doing my valves they are down to 10 to 20 misfires when its below 50 degrees outside, but once its warm they all but stop maybe 1 here 1 there. Again if they arent ever setting your cel off its prolly not a huge deal. Especially if you monitor your compression and you know you change your plugs then your ok. I'd recommend doing valves every 30 to 40k depending on how bad your ignition corrections and misfires get, that's how I knew mine were ready, cause afterwards they have all but disappeared.
I put the plugs in, I torqued them to 9 lbs under what most say lol. I put the new ones in the same way and they seem perfectly fine now. I do need to get my valves cleaned, but I sent logs over to the tuner and he said everything is looking really good. The car almost feels better now than it did.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top