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I second all of brian60's comments. My first Blackstone report easily supported 10,000 mile oil changes.

Stay way from Fram. Not that the filter is necessarily bad, but the element end caps are cardboard. I have seen them break down and come apart. That filter will never last the life of a quality oil.
 

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Hi! I just had my 3rd oil change at 15k miles. It should be overkill, but I checked my oil today at 16k miles and it's already turning blackish. I'm running Pennzoil Ultra Synth. Do these engines run dirty? Or is the stock filter too small? This is my first DI engine and turbo car. The car is not burning any oil either. It's just dirty already.
 

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Hi! I just had my 3rd oil change at 15k miles. It should be overkill, but I checked my oil today at 16k miles and it's already turning blackish. I'm running Pennzoil Ultra Synth. Do these engines run dirty? Or is the stock filter too small? This is my first DI engine and turbo car. The car is not burning any oil either. It's just dirty already.
normal
 

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Normal? I've never had an engine do this. But I've always owned naturally aspirated 4 cyl and V8's, before direct injection was a thing. My last two cars has and LS1 and a 5.7 Hemi, and both were way cleaner. The oil would still look like honey after a 1000k miles. Regardless of Synthetic (LS1) or Dino (Hemi) oil.

Any know why? Is it carbon from the DI? Is the filter too small? Does punching out 270 lbs of torque put a lot more friction on the small motor? I'm not worried per se, but I just like to know how things work.
 

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As been stated several times throughout this thread and others, the ONLY way to figure out what's up with your oil is an analysis. Visual appearance gives you nothing. The size of the filter would have little to nothing to do with the appearance of an oil also.
 

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Normal? I've never had an engine do this. But I've always owned naturally aspirated 4 cyl and V8's, before direct injection was a thing. My last two cars has and LS1 and a 5.7 Hemi, and both were way cleaner. The oil would still look like honey after a 1000k miles. Regardless of Synthetic (LS1) or Dino (Hemi) oil.

Any know why? Is it carbon from the DI? Is the filter too small? Does punching out 270 lbs of torque put a lot more friction on the small motor? I'm not worried per se, but I just like to know how things work.
As stated above, oil color doesn't necessarily mean anything. I too would advise getting a Blackstone UOA, in order to put your mind at ease. But, yes, it is normal.
 

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Dark looking oil means its doing its job picking up gunk. Theres probably alot to do with the slow acting and fast acting additives and detergents in the oil but I will let a tribologist chime in for that one.
 

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Does the engine oil pass through the turbo to lubricate? How does that work? I'm wondering if turning the car off after spirited driving leaves the turbo hot enough to carbonize small amounts of the oil? It might explain why it gets dirty so fast. I overly concerned from a maintenance POV. I just want to know the how and why of it.
 

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I'm wondering if turning the car off after spirited driving leaves the turbo hot enough to carbonize small amounts of the oil? It might explain why it gets dirty so fast. I overly concerned from a maintenance POV. I just want to know the how and why of it.
My understanding is that, it used to be good practice to let the engine idle for about 30 seconds to a minuet after spirited driving. I've heard that on newer turbocharged engines that it is not necessary. I still let mine idle for about 30 seconds, just in case.
 

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My understanding is that, it used to be good practice to let the engine idle for about 30 seconds to a minuet after spirited driving. I've heard that on newer turbocharged engines that it is not necessary. I still let mine idle for about 30 seconds, just in case.
I to do the same.. always let it cool a bit before turning it off..


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The turbo is water cooled. This eliminates most of the need to "idle" the car to cool the turbo compared to the "olden" days. Still not a bad idea if you've been getting on it right before you want to shut down.
 

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The turbo is water cooled. This eliminates most of the need to "idle" the car to cool the turbo compared to the "olden" days. Still not a bad idea if you've been getting on it right before you want to shut down.
Yeah one of my buddies who apparently lives way old fashioned and doesn't keep up with tech literally scolded and made fun of "how sh!tty I treat my car" (which actually kinda annoyed be considering I take much better care of my vehicles than he does) because we were hooning around shortly before, but we drove like 5 miles to get home after the hooning so the car had like 8 minutes of average driving to cool off before shutdown. I tried explaining how the turbo is cooled, and even referenced the fact of "If Ford is this technologically advanced on all their vehicles...don't you think there would be a Turbo Timer if one was actually needed..?" He didn't buy it and still shakes his head at times.

Yes, if I was hauling ass to my house and I stopped hauling ass less than a minute or two ago before skirting up by driveway, then yes I will let it go for a second before shutdown..but that's all it needs.
 

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Stupid question, I know the car calls for 5W30. But say the engine oil is low after checking the dip stick is there a specific brand of oil I have to buy? Or is using any 5W30 OK?
 

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Stupid question, I know the car calls for 5W30. But say the engine oil is low after checking the dip stick is there a specific brand of oil I have to buy? Or is using any 5W30 OK?
Best short answer is it should meet the Ford WSS-M2C946-A spec. This should be printed on the bottle. Many common 5w30 oils like Mobil 1 meet it.
 

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So from what I am reading, if the car is modded don't run the OEM oil? Will there be an issue or is other brands just holding up better? Doing my first oil change since adding a bunch of mods at a time. Any recommendations are welcome :)
 

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i've been offered some 10w40 (castrol gtx) for free, will this oil work in a focus st? i'm running a superchip bluefin so the engine runs a bit hotter than stock. the recommendation is 5w30, do i risk damaging the engine with a thicker oil or will it work better as the engine is running hotter anyway?
 

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Mobil 1 meets the new standard (always did).....rebate $12 / 5 quart jug....x 2 = $24.....Walmart $22.88 / jug....= ends up costing $10.88 / 5 qt jug.
 

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I just got my first oil change done. I went with Wolf's Head synthetic 5W-30. I was hesitant at first, but it meets Dexos 1 gen 2, API SN, ISAC GF-5, and Ford's MSS W2C specifications. The price is reasonable too. I think it's originally a Pennsylvania brand but I've saw it available in northern VA.
 

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Noob to the ST and turbo engines. How many quarts are these engines? Our 01' Zx3 was 4.25, I wasn't sure if these newer motors hold more or not.

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