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I've always been a huge advocate of AMSOIL and I hear people saying that brand or type doesn't matter if you are doing regular scheduled maintenance (every 2,500). I'm only putting in the best (AMSOIL, in my humble opinion) but what is the consensus? Doesn't matter or only the best?
 

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atta boy justus, i only run synthetics in my vehicles too.. Amsoil, good stuff.. I'm currently building the new BG products facility in El Dorado KS. they make a damn good product as well, dont think they make oil though, Lucas is good stuff too!!
 

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I've always been a huge advocate of AMSOIL and I hear people saying that brand or type doesn't matter if you are doing regular scheduled maintenance (every 2,500). I'm only putting in the best (AMSOIL, in my humble opinion) but what is the consensus? Doesn't matter or only the best?
Royal Purple!
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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I've always been confused by the weight of synthetic oils. I typically use plain ole 5W30. I've never shopped for synthetic oils before. Do you use the same weight? I seem to recall only seeing 10W40 in synthetic when shopping at walmart. I assume 10W40 is for diesels. Am I correct. Do they make a 5W30 in full synthtic?
 

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I've always been confused by the weight of synthetic oils. I typically use plain ole 5W30. I've never shopped for synthetic oils before. Do you use the same weight? I seem to recall only seeing 10W40 in synthetic when shopping at walmart. I assume 10W40 is for diesels. Am I correct. Do they make a 5W30 in full synthtic?
i'm sure they do!! try autozone in liew of wallyworld,prob getting crappy chinese oil there!! lol
 

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10W-40 is not only for diesels, it’s often for motorcycles too, given it's ok for wet clutches, But I’ll try to keep on track here. If an engine recommends 5w-30 then that's 5w-30 for synthetic or dino oil. Synthetic oils just have better heat transfer properties and do not break down in the same way dino oil does. While we are talking about oils, 5w-30 is a multi-weight oil, unlike say, plain SAE 30 weight oil. Multi-weight oil uses polymers which allow the oil to be specific weights at certain temperatures. SAE 30 as well as 5W-30 and 10W-30, and so forth, 30 being the common factor here, will all have the same viscosity, or thickness, at operating temperature (around 210degF). The difference is in the Winter number. The 5 in 5w-30 means it acts like a 5 weight oil during cold temperatures, like in the winter, which is what the W stands for. The lower the viscosity, the thinner the oil and the less resistance to oil flow you will have. That’s why thinner oil is better for colder climates, you get faster oil flow during cold starts. That’s also why you may hear people recommending 5w-30 over 10w-30 in the winter time. Now, you may ask why is the oil a 5 weight at cold temperatures and a 30 weight when hot? Shouldn’t it be thinner when hot? Well there is a different scale for grading Winter viscosities than there is for rating SAE viscosities, which makes the numbers seem confusing if you are trying to compare them. Hope this helps, it’s a bit confusing at first, but it sticks.
 

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Never messed with syns in my vehicles but with my bikes I have tried Mobil 1, Amsoil, Bel-Ray and Redline. All had similar results but I have a preference to Redline and Bel-Ray. Though Bel-Ray is powersport specific so disregard that one. :wink: May give Redline a try in the Focus just for grins and giggles.
 

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I will be using a Full Synthetic to help reduce the chance of coking form dino oil cooking in the turbos bearings.
And you always what to let the car idle for a little while after hard driving to let the turbo cool down some before shutting it off.

So I will be using Mobil 1 as it is easy to find and sometimes even on sale!:money:

Steve
 

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I will be using a Full Synthetic to help reduce the chance of coking form dino oil cooking in the turbos bearings.
And you always what to let the car idle for a little while after hard driving to let the turbo cool down some before shutting it off.

So I will be using Mobil 1 as it is easy to find and sometimes even on sale!:money:

Steve
yeah really,good advice, had no idea about letting the turbo cool down!!
 

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Here we go again... every auto blog has a discusion of oil. First thing first.... it is your car. Use the oil you want. Opinions are like belly buttons Everyone has one. Synthetic (unless recomended by Ford for the ST) is overkill unless you do serious racing all the time. In other words MOST of us will be driving to work having a little fun now and then. Using Ford recommended oil and filter changed when required will last just as long as synthetic use. As far as the turbo and coking go.... I doubt there will be any problems. The turbo is water cooled I do believe. And current oil technology makes coking very unlikely.
 

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Here we go again... every auto blog has a discusion of oil. First thing first.... it is your car. Use the oil you want. Opinions are like belly buttons Everyone has one. Synthetic (unless recomended by Ford for the ST) is overkill unless you do serious racing all the time. In other words MOST of us will be driving to work having a little fun now and then. Using Ford recommended oil and filter changed when required will last just as long as synthetic use. As far as the turbo and coking go.... I doubt there will be any problems. The turbo is water cooled I do believe. And current oil technology makes coking very unlikely.

Haha. Yeah I know what you mean about oil threads. I am on a few auto and MC forums and they never end on a good note.
 

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Agree with above.

I have used motorcraft synthetic in my mustang most of the time because that's what ford uses. I did use royal purple for a couple changes but the price is stupid, $7 a quart compared to $15 for 6 quarts of motorcraft
 

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I'm hoping to be changing oil sometime soon, but not optimistic. Last week my dealer told me the car was going to be built yesterday, the etis web site says 11/30! I'm thinking definitely within the first 1000 to 1500 miles. Want to get the break-in oil out and some synthetic in.
 

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I'm hoping to be changing oil sometime soon, but not optimistic. Last week my dealer told me the car was going to be built yesterday, the etis web site says 11/30! I'm thinking definitely within the first 1000 to 1500 miles. Want to get the break-in oil out and some synthetic in.
I wouldn't trust that etis website. It had my VIN being built next year when it was built Aug. 30th.
 
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