[davesST]

New to the whole tuning thing, and recently got a hold of an AP3 and a Stratified Flash tune. Curious to know which gauges will be of the most use for me to have on the screen. Or to put it differently, which are the most beneficial?

 

[Junior]

Boost gauge, AFR, are 2 main ones you should have. Any other feel free to have as you'd like.


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[Mbiro594]

Boost, AFR, Octane Adjustment Ratio, Fuel Pressure, Ign. Correction 1-4.. that's what Stratified recommends.

OAR should be between 0 & -1, good indication of how good the fuel you are using is.


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[davesST]

Boost, AFR, Octane Adjustment Ratio, Fuel Pressure, Ign. Correction 1-4.. that's what Stratified recommends.

OAR should be between 0 & -1, good indication of how good the fuel you are using is.


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Thanks for the info. I guess I already had 2 of the correct ones on screen.

 

[mazui]

I have Boost, AFR, Oil Temp, Charge Air Temp, Ign. Correction 1, Ign. Correction 4.

Ran OAR for a couple weeks until I was confident that Shell 93 (only gas I use) was running well with my tune. After that, I don't think it's useful to keep on your screen unless you regularly fill up at different stations.

I only run Ign. Correction for 1 & 4 because the firing order is 1-3-4-2, so I'm seeing every other cycle. You can run all 4 if you want but I don't really think it's needed, and it frees up two more spaces to monitor other things.

I like having Oil Temp for the same reason I run Boost, I like to see an exact number instead of a vague approximation. In any case, you can use it for a while to figure out what temps correspond to the needle positions on the factory gauge (150* is about 1/4, 200* is about 1/2) and then just use the factory gauge for an at-a-glance reference.

Charge Air Temp is good especially if you're still on the stock intercooler, because it heats up very quickly.

 

[Mbiro594]

I only run Ign. Correction for 1 & 4 because the firing order is 1-3-4-2, so I'm seeing every other cycle. You can run all 4 if you want but I don't really think it's needed, and it frees up two more spaces to monitor other things.

Thanks for the tip on doing 1 & 4, been running it on 1 & 2 and wasn't positive how Stratified expected me to monitor 8 things they recommended lol.


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[BlindAssassin111]

I have AFR, Ign. Correction 1, Boost, Charge air temp, intake air temp, and ambient air temp for right now. Had OAR but it was always negative so I took it off as I now know the gas station by my apartment has great 91...can't wait to move back to somewhere with 93. Will eventually get rid of ambient and put Ign. Correction 4 on there.

 

[Mbiro594]

What level should charge air temp be at? Normal cruising and after a few pulls. Stock intercooler for now btw


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[JoshCrane1]

What level should charge air temp be at? Normal cruising and after a few pulls. Stock intercooler for now btw


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slightly below intake air temperature if cruising, through the roof when pulling on stock fmic

 

[mazui]

If you have a 2015 or newer, the AP will read the charge air temp about 15* higher than the actual temperature unless you have a tune that adjusts for this.

 

[Mbiro594]

If you have a 2015 or newer, the AP will read the charge air temp about 15* higher than the actual temperature unless you have a tune that adjusts for this.

I have a 2013, what does that change?


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[mazui]

I have a 2013, what does that change?


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You're good then, the temp your AP displays should be accurate. 2015+ models changed the way they measure/interpret the charge air temp and it resulted in the shown temps being higher than the actual temps.

For the stock IC, you should be close to ambient while cruising. Mine always seems to be a little warmer than ambient, but some report colder than ambient. Post-pull temps can vary, but I went on a backroads cruise a couple weeks ago with some other ST owners and my AP was showing charge air temps close to 150* with ambient temps around 65*. Stock IC is really a bad design and temps climb very quickly.

 

[GotAFoSTnSpeed6]

I have a question, why do people monitor ignition correction per cylinder instead of just monitoring the ignition correction peak which is highest over all 4, so that tells you all 4 cylinders at the same time and if you don't see anything that isn't dreadful you good. More into that, instead of monitoring ignition why aren't people watching knock retard or spark retard?